• Introduction
• Juneau and Glacier Bay National Park
• To Seward and Kenai Fjords via Anchorage
• The Wilds of Denali National Park and Mount McKinley
• Fairbanks: A City on the Arctic's Edge
• Smart Splurges in Alaska
• Getting To and Around Alaska

Fairbanks: A City on the Arctic's Edge

TRIP 4: A CITY ON THE ARCTIC’S EDGE

Fairbanks

The northern hub with a gold rush past.

Fairbanks serves as the hub of the state’s interior from its position about 360 miles north of Anchorage. Alaska’s “Golden Heart” was founded as a gold mining town, and mining is still a driving force in the area, though much has changed since the gold rush days. The University of Alaska adds a youthful energy to what would otherwise be a remote outpost sprawled along the banks of the broad Chena River. The city is so spread out that driving is pretty much the best way to get around. Fairbanks’ citizens are friendly, colorful, unpretentious, and a little idiosyncratic—who can blame them when summer’s baseball games are held under the midnight sun and dark, frosty winters pass beneath the surreal glow of the aurora borealis?

EXPLORE The heart of downtown Fairbanks is, fittingly, in Golden Heart Plaza, where a lovely fountain holds a bronze statue of a Native family, speaking to the influence and importance of Native culture in this area. Head to the historic Lacey Street Theater, now home to the Ice Museum, where ice sculptures are on display in giant walk-in freezers, offering visitors a look at what the World Ice Art Championships (held in Fairbanks every winter) are all about (icemuseum.com). During the summer months, when the University quiets down, local cultural highlights include the Summer Arts Festival (July 13–27) and the Fairbanks Shakespeare Theatre (fsaf.org; fstalaska.org).

Heading out from the city center, several attractions warrant a visit. Historically themed Pioneer Park features gold rush and Native artifacts, a historic riverboat (the second largest wooden-hull vessel in existence), Warren G. Harding’s 1923 presidential rail carriage, and more (co.fairbanks .ak.us/parksandrecreation). A bit farther north, Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge is a birder’s paradise, hosting falcons, swans, cranes, and other birds. Close by and fresh from a $42 million expansion and renovation, the University of Alaska Museum of the North is an art, natural history, and science museum rolled into one; highlights include Ansel Adams photos, lots of gold artifacts, and Blue Babe—a 36,000-year-old mummified steppe bison (uaf.edu/museum). The Riverboat Discovery offers a 3.5-hour interactive Chena River tour (riverboat discovery.com). Chena Lake Recreation Area is a sprawling parkland perfect for outdoor sports of all kinds (co.fairbanks.ak.us/parksandrecreation). Chena Hot Springs, about 60 miles northeast of Fairbanks, has been soothing miners and other visitors in its geothermal pools since 1905 (chenahotsprings.com).

WHERE TO STAY Well-appointed Fairbanks Princess Riverside Lodge is set right on the Chena’s banks; many rooms have river views (from $199/night; princesslodges.com). Aurora Express Bed & Breakfast sleeps guests in seven Alaska Railroad cars (including a pair of 1956 Pullman sleepers and a caboose), each renovated to reflect a different historical period, and set in a spruce forest (from $135/night; aurora-express.com). Pike’s Waterfront Lodge offers comfortable rooms and log cabin suites (from $220/night; pikeslodge.com).

WHERE TO EAT Riverside Pump House Restaurant & Saloon has outdoor dining and a seafood-heavy menu; Seattle oysters are flown in fresh (entrées from $18; pumphouse.com). Lavelle’s Bistro serves elegant modern cuisine, like herb-crusted pork with currant sauce (entrées from $15; lavellesbistro.com), while homey Gambardella’s Pasta Bella specializes in Italian fare, including “the mother of all lasagnas” (entrées from $12; nvo.com/gambardellas). For a sweet ending, grab a cone at Hot Licks Homemade Ice Cream (cones from $3.25; hotlicks.net)—the seasonal wild berry flavors are lip-smacking good.

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