• Introduction
• Juneau and Glacier Bay National Park
• To Seward and Kenai Fjords via Anchorage
• The Wilds of Denali National Park and Mount McKinley
• Fairbanks: A City on the Arctic's Edge
• Smart Splurges in Alaska
• Getting To and Around Alaska

Juneau and Glacier Bay National Park

TRIP 1: A SOUTHEASTERN ITINERARY

Juneau and Mendenhall Glacier

This gateway city provides a perfect microcosm of the state itself, from a picturesque Victorian downtown to the blue-tinged glacier next door.

Alaska’s capital and third largest city, Juneau, is physically cut off from the mainland. It’s bordered by Gastineau Channel, part of the Inside Passage (the waterway that covers the length of the state’s panhandle), and an extensive inland ice field. Yet despite its isolation, the city seems in many ways like Alaska in miniature. It has a small-town feel common to even the largest Alaskan cities—here, politicians hobnob alongside fishermen, vibrantly colored Victorian houses abound—and the influence of indigenous Native communities and gold miners lingers on every corner. Yet for all its cultural diversity and richness, the great outdoors—temperate rain forests that get more than 200 days of rain a year, rugged mountains, quiet beaches, massive glaciers—presses in from all sides, infusing the city with an earthy, adventurous vibe.

EXPLORE Nestled between forested mountains, downtown Juneau is a picturesque area, its bright 19th-century structures set on steep but strollable streets. The area is dotted with legislative and historic buildings—including the marble-columned 1931 State Capitol building and the octagonal, gold-domed St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church (a testament to the region’s Russian heritage)—as well as a sprinkling of totem poles. The Alaska State Museum is a worthwhile stop to peruse Native art and artifacts as well as exhibits on the history of Russian and American settlements (museums.state.ak.us). Tourist-heavy South Franklin Street is lined with shops and galleries (when cruise ships are in port, this area is mobbed), and connects downtown to the waterfront and to the Mount Roberts Tramway ($25; goldbelttours.com), which whisks visitors up 1,800 feet on Mount Roberts for superlative views (on clear days) of Juneau and the water. You’ll also find hiking trails and the Timberline Bar & Grill.

Driving “out the road”—local lingo for cruising Juneau’s only (and ultimately dead-end) highway—leads along Auke Bay—where ferries ply the Alaska Marine Highway—and through Mendenhall Valley. The bay hosts kayaking tours, sportfishing charters, and whale-watching cruises—Four Seasons Marine Services has the best boats and guides, and guarantees whale sightings (4seasonsmarine.com). The valley is home to blue-tinged Mendenhall Glacier, one of Alaska’s most accessible and visited glaciers. It can be viewed from a lakeside overlook or via several trails. Adrenaline seekers can arrange glacial hiking through outfits like Above & Beyond Alaska (beyondak.com). On the way back, stop at Alaskan Brewing Company, an award-winning brewery turning out blends like Alaskan Amber, inspired by what original gold rushers imbibed (alaskanbeer.com). Cycle Alaska’s 4.5-hour, guided Bike & Brew tour is a fantastic way to visit glacier and brewery in one shot (cycleak.com).

WHERE TO STAY For a smart splurge, book a room at romantic Pearson’s Pond Luxury Inn, a deluxe waterfront retreat tucked into the rain forest on the outskirts of Juneau with its own secluded pond and Adventure Spa (from $399/night; pearsonspond.com). More central to downtown is Alaska’s Capital Inn bed-and-breakfast, set in a historic 1906 mansion steps from the capitol building, with personal touches like local art, handmade quilts, and evening wine receptions (from $165/night; alaskacapitalinn.com).

WHERE TO EAT Breakfast at the state’s oldest operating bakery, laid-back Silverbow Bakery, where the sourdough recipe hasn’t changed in 100 years (silverbowinn.com). For lunch, The Hangar, in a converted floatplane hangar on the waterfront, offers American fare and a delectable selection of Alaskan microbrews (hangaronthewharf.com). The Art Deco Gold Room at the Baranof hotel is the finest eatery in the city, specializing in seafood dishes (entrées from $23; westmarkhotels.com/juneau-food.php). Chez Alaska is a new cooking school where you’ll learn to prepare gourmet dishes based on locally sourced ingredients such as sea cucumber and abalone (chezalaska.com).

WHERE TO SHOP Jade Shop sells jewelry handmade from jade mined near the Alaska/British Columbia border (alaskajadeshop.com). Juneau Artists Gallery in the old Senate Building and The Raven’s Journey on South Franklin are great places to pick up work by local artisans (juneauartistsgallery.com; ravensjourneygallery.com).

Glacier Bay National Park

Take in glacial giants via boat or plane.

Situated about 50 miles northwest of Juneau is Glacier Bay National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site showcasing a mélange of marine and terrestrial habitats, as well as mammoth glaciers that flow into the sea from the surrounding mountains (nps.gov/glba). The 3.3-million acre preserve is accessible exclusively by plane or boat, with the exception of a few trailheads near the park’s headquarters at Bartlett Cove (see below). Flightseeing through Air Excursions offers maximal views of the ice rivers and glacial giants (airexcursions.com), but for a more human-scale view, charter a yacht from Gustavus Marine Charters (gustavus marinecharters.com) or a sea kayak. Daylong trips (guided or solo) can be organized by Glacier Bay Sea Kayaks (glacierbayseakayaks.com). A comprehensive eight-hour Glacier Bay Tour aboard a high-speed catamaran, with lectures by National Park Service naturalists and lunch, can be arranged through Bartlett Cove visitor services (visitglacierbay.com). Dress in layers and bring binoculars—humpback and orca sightings are a near guarantee.

WHERE TO STAY & EAT The best local rooms are in nearby Gustavus at Glacier Bay’s Bear Track Inn, an extraordinary shoreside log cabin bordering a field of wildflowers—rates include locally sourced meals and flights to and from Juneau (from $544/night per person; beartrackinn .com). Family-run Gustavus Inn at Glacier Bay is well-regarded for home-cooked meals and friendly, personalized service (from $190/night per person; gustavusinn.com). The area’s smart splurge is just outside Gustavus (right near the airstrip) at the Glacier Bay Country Inn, which caters to every sort of fishing enthusiast with guided trips (from $198/night per person, includes meals; glacierbayalaska.com). Glacier Bay Lodge offers the only lodging situated within the park itself and boasts a good restaurant, the Fairweather Dining Room (from $160/night per person; visitglacierbay.com).

GETTING THERE FROM JUNEAU Flights can be arranged from the capital to the tiny town of Gustavus (Alaska Airlines operates a daily route in summer). Gustavus is situated about 10 miles from Glacier Bay’s headquarters at Bartlett Cove (accessible via shuttles, taxi, or rental cars). Charter boats are available, too, or take the newly reinstated ferry service from Auke Bay to Bartlett Cove (courtesy of Glacier Bay Lodge). Book ahead because there’s just one circuit each day ($75 one way; no cars; visitglacierbay.com).