• Introduction
• Juneau and Glacier Bay National Park
• To Seward and Kenai Fjords via Anchorage
• The Wilds of Denali National Park and Mount McKinley
• Fairbanks: A City on the Arctic's Edge
• Smart Splurges in Alaska
• Getting To and Around Alaska

The Wilds of Denali National Park and Mount McKinley

TRIP 3: THE WILDS OF MOUNT MCKINLEY

 
Denali National Park
The sprawling park surrounding North America’s tallest mountain peak is a remote but can’t-miss destination that channels all the majesty of Alaska’s backcountry.

Denali National Park and Preserve is Alaska’s foremost attraction, rewarding visitors to this out-of-the-way country with wondrous alpine scenery capped by Mount McKinley—known as Denali, or the Great One, to the region’s Native people (nps.gov/dena). Visitors can easily make the drive on the George Parks Highway (Route 3) from Fairbanks (125 miles) or Anchorage (240 miles), or take Alaska Railroad’s Denali Star Train, which offers stupendous views en route between the two cities. Encompassing some six million acres, the park is marked by tundra, glaciers, and prolific wildlife—grizzlies, moose, caribou, wolves, Dall sheep, and much more. The park’s ecosystem remains much as it has for millennia due to careful stewardship. Case in point: Just one dusty service road cuts into the reserve, 91-mile Park Road, and beyond mile 15, even that road is closed to private vehicles.

EXPLORE Since there’s only one way into the park, make a pit stop at the Visitor Center for an introduction to the vast landscape through its elaborate installations. Beyond mile 15, access to Park Road is strictly reserved for bicyclists, limited tour buses, and park-sponsored shuttle buses. Shuttles ply the full loop, offering hop-on, hop-off service in both directions, and stopping for wildlife photo ops (a shuttle circuit takes between six and 12 hours). The areas around Wonder Lake provide terrific introductory hiking, and many of the trails there have great views of Mount McKinley on clear days. Guided bus tours offer extras like box lunches and commentary, and include the Denali Natural History Tour (four to five hours), the Tundra Wilderness Tour (six to eight hours), as well as the comprehensive Kantishna Experience, which takes 11 to 12 hours (denaliparkresorts.com). The one drawback to these tours, compared to unguided park shuttles, is that travelers are confined to the bus outside of designated rest stops. Keep in mind that the earlier the departure, the better the visibility, and the more animals you’ll see (and riding into Denali, seats on the left side of the bus have the best vistas). Bring binoculars for wildlife viewing and plenty of water and food, because there are no concessions within park boundaries. There are miles and miles of wilderness to explore, but most visitors make the trek here solely with snow-clad Mount McKinley in mind. The 20,320-foot behemoth can be viewed from many points within the park, though it is often obscured by clouds. (For info on climbing, see Talkeetna section below.) Reserve everything from bus tickets to hotel rooms as far in advance as possible (reservedenali.com). Other activities of interest in and around the park include sled-dog demonstrations at the park’s kennels, ranger programs, biking, backcountry hiking, river rafting, jet boats, and horseback riding. Small plane and helicopter flightseeing tours of the Alaskan Range and glaciers are a great way to take in the maximum amount of parkland in the minimum amount of time (Denali Air; denaliair .com; Era Helicopters; flightseeingtours.com).

WHERE TO STAY Located less than a mile from the park entrance, McKinley Chalet Resort offers pine-paneled, two-room minisuites and several cedar lodges (from $159/night; denaliparkresorts.com). Inside the park, eco-friendly Camp Denali boasts cabins near Wonder Lake and naturalist-led programs, and is the only park lodge with views of Mount McKinley (from $435/night, includes transfers, all meals; campdenali.com). Those who prefer to sleep under the stars can’t beat the tent-only Campground at Wonder Lake ($16/night for camping permit; denali.national-park.com).

WHERE TO EAT The lively Overlook Bar & Grill (entrées from $16; denalicrowsnest.com), a mile north of the park entrance, serves craft beers, burgers, and great views over Nenana Canyon. Laura and Land Cole, proprietors of 229 Parks Restaurant & Tavern (eight miles south of the park entrance), use organic and local ingredients when possible, and offer several vegetarian and vegan options (entrées from $16; 229parks.com).

WHERE TO SHOP Shopping is scarce in the park area, but a few miles from the park entrance in Glitter Gulch, Denali Mountain Works sells outdoor gear, perfect if you plan on camping in the shadow of the Great One (907/683-1542).

Talkeetna
This quirky outpost at the junction of three rivers attracts avid climbers and anglers.

Midway between Denali National Park and Anchorage lies the gold rush–era town of Talkeetna. The residents are lighthearted, artsy, and have a great sense of humor (the town hosts an annual Moose Dropping Festival). The tiny settlement of log cabins and clapboard buildings (population about 800) is said to have been the inspiration for the TV series Northern Exposure and is the primary base for Mount McKinley climbers. Considered one of the world’s most challenging climbs, some 1,200 attempt the peak each year. In the town cemetery, there’s a touching memorial to climbers who have perished on the mountain. 

EXPLORE Located at the junction of the Susitna, Talkeetna, and Chulitna rivers, Talkeetna is a dream destination for river boating, rafting, and salmon fishing trips (Mahay’s Riverboat Service; mahaysriverboat .com; Talkeetna River Guides; talkeetnariverguides.com). Learn about the town’s rich climbing and mining history at the Talkeetna Historical Society (talkeetnahistorical society.org). Talkeetna Air Taxi offers flightseeing tours that actually stop on Ruth Glacier, near Denali (talkeetnaair.com). To make the full Denali climb, you will need to register two months in advance and pay fees totaling $200. Professional guides can be arranged through the local ranger station (nps.gov/dena). The Alaska Railroad stops in Talkeetna on its Anchorage-to-Fairbanks run.

WHERE TO STAY & EAT About two miles outside of town is the rustic Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, surrounded by forest. Its best rooms are on the higher floors, offering Denali views (from $269/night; talkeetnalodge.com). Café Michele, back in town, offers mainly organic dishes with international flavors, like local salmon in a soy, ginger, and garlic sauce (entrées from $18; cafemichele.com).

WHERE TO SHOP Main Street has plenty of gift shops and galleries like Talkeetna Artisans, selling local arts and crafts, and Nagley’s General Store, one of Talkeetna’s most charming buildings (nagleysstore.com). For all your outdoor supply needs, hit up Alaska Mountaineering School (climbalaska.org).

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