• Introduction
• Juneau and Glacier Bay National Park
• To Seward and Kenai Fjords via Anchorage
• The Wilds of Denali National Park and Mount McKinley
• Fairbanks: A City on the Arctic's Edge
• Smart Splurges in Alaska
• Getting To and Around Alaska

To Seward and Kenai Fjords via Anchorage

TRIP 2: TO SEWARD AND KENAI FJORDS VIA ANCHORAGE

Kenai Peninsula

A short stretch of coastal highway packs a lot of scenic punch on its way to the quaint town of Seward and the dramatic Kenai Fjords National Park.

The Seward Highway serves as the thread linking Anchorage to the charming portside town of Seward at the head of magnificent Resurrection Bay. The 127-mile highway traverses the Kenai Peninsula, cutting through diverse landscapes—from glistening glaciers to alpine meadows, with vistas of jagged peaks and majestic fjords. Many miles of the route wind past waterfalls, wildflowers, and wildlife, hugging the base of the Chugach Mountains and overlooking Cook Inlet down the shoreline of Turnagain Arm (where twice daily there’s a bore tide—a wave that can roar up to 10 feet tall). Watch for grazing sheep and mountain goats among the cliff tops, and beluga whales swimming the frigid waters below. Designated an All-American Road by the U.S. Department of Transportation, the highway provides access to terrific fishing spots and campgrounds. For those who prefer riding to driving, the Alaska Railroad follows a near-identical route.

EXPLORE The premier attraction en route is the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, where injured and orphaned bear, moose, musk ox, bison, and caribou roam in large enclosures recalling their natural habitat (awcc.org). Once in the photogenic fishing town of Seward, most visitors schedule trips to the Kenai Fjords National Park, a coastal expanse of tidewater glaciers, fjords, mountain peaks, and a rich population of wildlife, especially seabirds (nps.gov/kefj). Since the fjords are the thing to see, the preferred touring mode is by water (flight tours can also be arranged). Kenai Fjords Tours offers six- to nine-hour cruises that include a salmon lunch; the tours of Resurrection Bay offer calmer waters but less dramatic views (kenaifjords.com). Guided sea kayak tours, another way to experience the rough coast, are available through Sunny Cove Sea Kayaking (sunnycove.com). Hikers have limited access to the park’s periphery but can follow the half-mile Exit Glacier trail, which leads through a forested path to the base of Exit Glacier or the more serious eight-mile Harding Icefield Trail, a fantastic day hike through otherworldly glacial landscapes. Further Seward highlights include the Alaska Sea Life Center, a rescue and rehabilitation center for marine mammals and seabirds—watch puffins and sea lions zip by from underwater viewing galleries (alaskasealife.org). Take some time to refuel while perusing local arts and crafts at the nearby Resurrect Art Coffee House Gallery (resurrectart.com).

WHERE TO STAY Seward is within striking distance of Anchorage, but overnight options include the rustic yet well-appointed Seward Windsong Lodge (from $139/night; sewardwindsong.com). Or pull off the Seward Highway in Girdwood and take the tram to Alaska’s most famous ski spot, Alyeska Resort, boasting a saltwater swimming pool, spa, plenty of summer activities, and rousing mountain views (from $259/night; alyeskaresort.com).

WHERE TO EAT Seward Windsong Lodge’s relaxed Resurrection Roadhouse (entrées from $9; 907/224-7116) serves craft-brewed beers and Alaskan specialties like venison and deep-fried halibut. On the harbor, Ray’s Waterfront (entrées from $20; 907/224-5606) is known for fresh-off-the-boat salmon and seafood chowder. For more indulgent dining, stop at Mount Alyeska’s Seven Glaciers (see Smart Splurges).

Anchorage

In the state's only true metropolis, urban sophistication lives alongside native culture.

Home to nearly half the state’s population, Anchorage has many food, nightlife, shopping, and culture options. Most visitors use it merely as a transit hub, but the city warrants a few days’ exploration. The state’s commercial and financial center is hardly disconnected from the surrounding wilderness; don’t be surprised to spy moose loitering on city streets or anglers hauling 40-pound salmon from Ship Creek, right in the middle of downtown.

EXPLORE Anchorage is laid out in an easily navigable grid (lettered streets and numbered avenues). Start your tour at the landmark Art Deco 4th Avenue Theatre (built in 1947, it survived the devastating 1964 Good Friday earthquake) and take in the nearby town square (plus the adjacent Wyland Whale Mural). Close by is the Anchorage Museum of History and Art, the state’s largest, chronicling 10,000 years of Alaskan history through exhibits like a full-scale bisection of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline (anchoragemuseum.org). Anchorage has no sales tax, so it’s a fantastic place to stock up on souvenirs—in abundance at the weekly, open-air Anchorage Market (Saturdays and Sundays; May 10 to September 7), where hundreds of vendors sell crafts like fur dolls and jade jewelry, artisanal jams, and anything related to salmon (anchoragemarkets.com). You’ll need wheels to navigate outside downtown, where you’ll find the 26-acre Alaska Native Heritage Center Museum, celebrating Alaska’s diverse Native inhabitants with exhibits, a replica village, and dance performances (alaska native.net). Near the airport the Alaska Aviation Heritage Museum hosts exhibits on the state’s rich flying history and displays vintage planes (alaskaairmuseum.org). On Anchorage’s doorstep lies the half-million-acre wilderness of Chugach State Park, where hiking, climbing, fishing, rafting, and more can be enjoyed, along with bird’s-eye views of Anchorage (www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks).

 
WHERE TO STAY Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Historic Anchorage Hotel (from $215/night; historicanchoragehotel.com) is a lovely property dating to 1916. Its rooms have been elegantly refurbished with Queen Anne–style furnishings. Another fine choice is nautically themed Hotel Captain Cook (from $260/night; captaincook.com), where many rooms boast great views of the Chugach Mountains or Cook Inlet.

WHERE TO EAT For Tuscan-meets-Alaskan cuisine, Orso doles out innovative dishes like mushroom ravioli with Alaskan sockeye salmon; reservations are advised (entrées from $9; orsoalaska.com). Just next door, the Glacier Brew House specializes in handcrafted beer (there are dozens on offer) and gourmet bar food (entrées from $9; glacierbrewhouse.com). The best breakfast in town is at the Snow City Café, which draws a young crowd and serves all sorts of egg dishes, homemade sourdough pancakes, and a signature granola (entrées from $8; snowcitycafe.com). Jens’ Restaurant, with its Danish-inflected lunch menu (try the Frikadeller med rødkål, or pan-fried veal-and-pork meatballs with red cabbage), is well worth a visit (entrées from $11; jensrestaurant.com).

See Alaska Travel Guide