• Introduction
• 1. Napa
• 2. Sonoma
• 3. Mendocino
• 4. San Francisco and Beyond
• 5. Best Boutique Wineries
• 6. Tasting Room Tips
• 7. Spa Secrets
• 8. Getting There and Itineraries

Mendocino

MENDOCINO
Dramatic Terrain and a Laid-Back Vibe Distinguish this Still-Rustic County

When you get to Mendocino, another huge county, you’ll notice that things move more slowly here. With massive redwood forests, miles of agricultural  countryside, and a dramatic, rocky coastline, outdoor activities like river kayaking and mountain biking are a natural. The vineyards are mostly in the south, around Ukiah and in the isolated Anderson Valley, which many say mirrors the Napa of the 1960s. You can take the 101 north from Sonoma into the Ukiah area, a beautiful drive through ranches and vineyards, or take even more beautiful Route 128, a country road that winds through vineyards into the Anderson Valley, where sleepy Boonville is the main town. The valley, now a mass of vineyards, was not so long ago home to lumberjacks, hippies, and old-timers who spoke “Boontling,” a local lingo designed to confound outsiders.

In Boonville, stay at the Old West–flavored Boonville Hotel, where owner John Schmitt is the restaurant chef and the 10 rooms have elegant wood decor (from $125; boonvillehotel.com).

Up the road in tiny Philo, Schmitt-family dominance continues at Apple Farm, a farmstand (featuring fresh cider and preserves) and weekend cooking school run by John’s parents, along with their daughter Karen (philoapplefarm.com). Mexican restaurant Libby’s, also in Philo, is crammed with locals who go into mourning when it closes for a month each winter (707/895-2646). Take in the beautiful grounds and champenoise-style sparkling wines of Roederer Estate, the French company that produces Cristal (roedererestate.net), or the vine-covered terrace at Handley Cellars (handleycellars.com), where the tasting room is filled with exotic craft items. Both wineries are outside Philo on 128, which, if you drive northwest along it, becomes surrounded by redwoods and then, suddenly, opens onto the coast, where waves pound into driftwood-filled coves.

In windswept Mendocino, perched on cliffs over the water, wander the streets on foot among art galleries and shops selling art glass, jewelry, and clothing. Stop at the Moosse Café (theblueheron.com) for a delicious lunch and a great view, or have a bistro-style dinner near the hearth at Café Beaujolais (cafebeaujolais.com). Just south of Mendocino,
Stevenswood Spa Resort—with its amenity-rich rooms (espresso machines, TempurPedic beds, and ocean views) and small, personalized spa—is a gem. The resort’s restaurant, guided by innovative chef Patrick Meany, is one of the area’s best (from $325; stevenswood.com).

Sometimes a touristy expedition is popular for a reason. The hokey Skunk Train leaves from Fort Bragg, chugging through redwoods and spectacular mountain gorges. The roundtrip covers 40 miles in a worthwhile three hours ($47; skunktrain.com).

See Caribbean Travel Guide