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White-washed buildings and blue-domed churches are a frequent sight in Santorini
The Cyclades
On Santorini and Mykonos, drop-dead gorgeous scenery is just a backdrop for the fun.
Lying in the south Aegean Sea between mainland Greece and Turkey, the Cyclades provide the classic images of Greek islands—clusters of whitewashed houses built into sunbathed outcrops rising from a deep-blue sea. Santorini is probably the most dramatic of all the Greek islands, with eye-catching reddish-brown and black cliffs overlooking a unique sea-filled, volcanic caldera. And cosmopolitan Mykonos attracts international celebrities who flock to its hedonistic nightlife, smart hotels, and south coast beaches. Plan to stay at least three days on each of the two islands—and consider adding on a side trip to the relaxed, family-centric isles of Milos and Santos.
Santorini
Santorini took on its extraordinary look when a massive volcanic explosion blew off a huge piece of the island some 3,600 years ago, forming the caldera, a 32-square-mile crater, filled with dark-blue water. Its two most stunning settlements, Fira and Oia, lie on the west coast atop sheer cliffs rising 1,000 feet above the caldera. The key word here is romance—these villages, offering stunning sunsets, provide an unforgettable backdrop for couples of all ages. Santorini draws visitors from the world over, including bold-faced names like Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell.
Fira, the island’s capital and largest town, is a labyrinth of white cubic buildings. Most visitors base themselves here for its stellar selection of caldera-view hotels and the pedestrian-only alleys packed with jewelry stores and boutiques. Fira heaves with tourists in the summer, some from cruise ships docking in the tiny harbor of Skala, which can be reached from Fira with a descent of 580 steps. Thankfully, most ships depart by sunset, and as the town lights up for the evening, it’s sheer magic. Stay at the friendly, low-key Enigma Apartments & Suites (Fira; from $256/night in summer; 30/228-602-4024, enigmahotel.com) for accommodations including a kitchenette and a balcony or veranda with a caldera view.
Begin the evening in Fira with an aperitif at Franco’s (Fira; 30/228-602-4428, francos-bar.com), where sublime sunsets are visible from the terrace. For dinner, book a table at Selene (Fira; entrées from $18; 30/228-602-2249, selene.gr), whose creative Mediterranean dishes include baked sea bass wrapped in a fava crepe. Or, walk 10 minutes out of town to Vanilia (Firostefani; entrées from $15; 30/228-602-5631, vanilia.gr) in Firostefani, also overlooking the caldera, to dine on classic Greek taverna fare in an attractive garden. Nearby, socialites and celebrities flock to Fira’s most-talked-about nightspot, Koo Club (Fira; 30/228-602-2025, kooclub.gr), where you can stop for a nightcap in the palm-filled courtyard or hit the dance floor.
Santorini’s top cultural attraction, ancient Akrotiri (odysseus.culture.gr), a 5,000-year-old Minoan settlement, is closed for maintenance, but its artifacts, including impressive frescoes, are displayed at the Museum of Prehistoric Fira (30/228-602-2217). Devote your second day on Santorini to a boat excursion around the caldera from Skala, or, to avoid the hordes, charter a yacht, a splurge of about $150 per person for a group of six. In the middle of the caldera rise the uninhabited lava islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni. The former is a semi-active volcano, with a smoldering crater, while the latter offers thermal mud springs suitable for bathing. For lunch, sail to the tiny island of Firassia, which provides fantastic views of Santorini.
Eight miles north of Fira, find Oia, possibly Greece’s most photographed village. Its winding streets are lined with traditional white houses and blue-domed churches. Take a taxi from Fira to this community of bohemian artists and writers with sophisticated hotels and eateries. A smart splurge, Perivolas (Oia; studios from $665/night in summer; 30/228-607-1308, perivolas.gr) is the top choice for an overnight stay. Its rooms are beautifully restored, 17th-century cave dwellings—vaulted spaces excavated out of a rock face and embellished with antiques and sea-view terraces. For dinner, Ambrosia (Oia; entrées from $33; 30/228-607-1413, ambrosia-nectar.com) serves Mediterranean dishes (try duck in red wine and cherry marinade) on a caldera-view terrace. If you’re up for a trek, follow the 214 steps down to the tiny harbor of Ammoudi, where the waterside Katina (Ammoudi harbor, Oia; entrées from $12; 30/228-607-1280), a moderately priced taverna, serves fresh fish.
Santorini’s volcanic soil supports rich vineyards producing some of Greece’s best white wines. On day three, take a taxi or a bus to SantoWines (Pyrgos; 30/228-602-2596, santowines.gr) and try its specialty, Vinsanto, a velvety dessert wine. For an afternoon on the beach, avoid overcrowded Kamari and Perissa, and head to the smooth gray sand of Vlychada.
Mykonos
Mykonos was the first Cycladic island to embrace tourism in the 1960s, and is now undoubtedly the most cosmopolitan and expensive of all the Greek islands. Base yourself in the port and capital, Mykonos Town, renowned for its glamorous nightlife, design hotels, and modern Greek tavernas. Built into gentle slopes that descend to a picturesque harbor, the old town is a maze of cobbled streets packed with whitewashed cubic houses sporting blue wooden shutters and draped in bougainvillea. Mykonos is loved by visitors from all over the world, though Americans and Europeans tend to predominate.
Stay at the peaceful Semeli (Mykonos Town; from $447/night in summer; 30/228-902-7466, semelihotel.gr), offering a splendid hillside location with great sea views, as well as a Mediterranean restaurant adjacent to an outdoor pool. The slightly more funky, 1960s-inspired Ostraco Suites (Mykonos Town; from $435/night in summer; 30/228-902-3396, ostraco.gr) has 21 all-white rooms and suites plus an outdoor pool. For dinner, try the friendly Mamacas (Mykonos Town; entrées from $15; 30/228-902-6120, mamacas.gr), serving unpretentious modern taverna fare in the heart of Mykonos Town. Trendy Gola (Periferiakos-Drafaki Street; entrées from $20; 30/228-902-3010, gola.gr), set on a hillside above town, is the place for upmarket modern Italian.
Mykonos nightlife is unashamedly exhibitionist, brimming with see-and-be-seen bars and clubs. For sunset cocktails, try Caprice (Lambrou Katsoni 8; drinks from $11; 30/228-902-2177, caprice.gr), overlooking the water in Mykonos Town. Late at night, head to the harborside to El Pecado (at the harborfront; 30/228-902-6747), where Argentinian tangos play into the small hours, or Pierro’s (Matoyanni Street.; 30/228-902-2177, pierrosbar.gr), a gay cocktail bar dating back to the 1970s and renowned for its drag shows.
The best beaches, along the south coast, are served by water taxis from Mykonos Town. The most talked-about are Paradise and Super Paradise, but they can get rowdy. Instead, head for the pale golden sand of Psarou Beach, which is more upscale and offers excellent water sports facilities. Have lunch at Nammos (Psarou Beach; entrées from $8; 30/228-902-2440, nammos.gr), a favorite with celebrities; its deck leads right back onto the sand.
For a cultural diversion, take a boat from Mykonos Town to the uninhabited island of Delos (Archaeological Museum of Delos; Delos; $6; 30/228-902-2259; odysseus.culture.gr), a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for the ancient Sanctuary of Dionysus.
Milos and Sifnos
Unlike their neighbors, these two Cycladic isles have a relaxed, family-centric vibe. It doesn’t hurt that they’re less trafficked and more reasonably priced, either. Connected to Santorini by ferry (two to four 2-hour trips weekly), Milos is blessed with silvery sand beaches, including Kleftiko and Gerontas, and striking rock formations. In Adamas, the handsome capital, Villa Notos (from $160/night in summer; 30/228-702-2193, villanotos.gr) offers studios and apartments with handcrafted furniture. In the fishing village of Pollonia, the luxurious Melian Hotel & Spa (from $203/night in summer; 30/228-704-1150, melian.gr) boasts all-white rooms.
Unspoiled but rather upscale Sifnos is known for its pretty coves and ceramics (daily ferries connect Milos to Sifnos). The port, Kamares, has an ideal beach for kids, while popular Platis Gialos is one of the longest beaches in the Cyclades. In Apollonia, the funky Patriarca Boutique Hotel (from $195/night in summer; 30/228-403-2400, patriarca.gr) occupies a restored 17th-century house, while the nearby charming Niriedes Hotel (from $229/night in summer; 30/228-407-1530, niriedeshotel.gr), by Platis Gialos, has a sea-view terrace where breakfast is served.
Getting There and Around
Santorini and Mykonos both have airports served by regular flights from Athens. You can also reach these islands by ferry or catamaran from Athens’ port, Piraeus. Through the summer, high-speed catamarans connect the two via the nearby island of Paros (Paros to Santorini, 75 minutes; Paros to Mykonos, 40 minutes). Don’t bother renting a car—taxis and buses are abundant.
Read our Mykonos or Santorini Travel Guides for even more in-depth destination and trip-planning advice!
See Crete Travel Guide | See Mykonos Travel GuideSee Santorini Travel Guide
