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A glimpse of pristine New Zealand landscapes
The Southern Lakes Region with Arrowtown & Fiordland NP
If you have time to visit only one place in New Zealand, make it the lush plains and soaring, snowcapped peaks of the Southern Lakes Region.
Don’t be put off by this renowned outdoor mecca’s moniker, Adventure Capital of the World. Yes, bungee (spelled bungy down under) jumping and jet boating are hugely popular in the Southern Lakes Region, but the area’s softer side is just as enthralling, given the stupendous natural scenery, vineyards, and quirky towns that lie in the hinterlands. Indeed, this is where you’ll find Central Otago (Wine Tours Appellation Central 64/3-442-0246, appellationcentral.co.nz), the country’s newest (and fastest-growing) wine region, the darling 19th-century gold rush settlement of Arrowtown (arrowtown.org.nz), and astonishing Glenorchy, where the dramatic vistas served as the setting for Middle Earth in The Lord of the Rings. Capping it off, the region is also the launchpad for outings to Milford Sound—a deep gorge once lauded by Rudyard Kipling as the eighth Wonder of the World. All of this lies within easy reach of the resort town of Queenstown, the prime base for area explorations. Plan on at least five days to get the most out of a visit; make it happen by flying 2 hours to Queenstown from Auckland or Wellington and renting a car from the airport to get around.
With the glacier-fed Lake Wakatipu at its shores and the jagged 7,677-foot-high Remarkables mountain range as its backdrop, Queenstown boasts one of the world’s most attractive mountain resort settings. The best landscape overview is from the summit of 2,592-foot-high Bob’s Peak, reachable by Skyline Gondola (Brecon St., Queenstown; 64/3-441-0101, skyline.co.nz) from the outskirts of town. The summit is also home to one of three local bungee sites run by A.J. Hackett, the New Zealand maverick who invented the sport in the 1980s—his iconic Kawarau Bridge Bungy (the world’s first bungee jump site) (A.J. Hackett Bungy; 64/3-442-4007, bungy.co.nz) at the gateway to Central Otago, offers memorable sightings of intrepid souls leaping into bracing waters from a 141-foot-high bridge.
The picturesque flat plains and soaring snowcapped peaks that most of us now associate with New Zealand, thanks to The Lord of the Rings trilogy, are actually found around Glenorchy, a 40-minute drive from Queenstown. Dart River’s thrilling Jet Safari (64/3-442-9992, dartriverjet.co.nz)—on jet boats that speed along glacier-fed rivers at breakneck speeds—is the most popular outing here. But you can experience the setting at a slower pace on horseback. Dart Stables (Coll St., Glenorchy; 64/3-442-5688, dartstables.com), the same outfit that equipped The Lord of the Rings cast with steeds, runs all-level outings, including a 2-hour Ride of the Rings that covers the first film’s most memorable terrain. The trailhead to one of New Zealand’s best hikes, the 20-mile-long Routeburn Track (64/3-441-8170, infotrack.co.nz), is also found here; even if you’re not an active hiker, it’s worth doing a guided day walk with the local outfitter InfoTrack to see some of the trail’s legendary riverbeds and alpine passes. After an invigorating day out, you can rejuvenate in a hot tub at Queenstown’s new Onsen Hot Pools (Main Rd., Arthurs Point; 64/3-442-5707, onsen.co.nz).
The recent ascendancy of Central Otago, the rugged wine region that extends to the southeast of Queenstown, has added yet another dimension to the area. Despite being the terroir of New Zealand’s youngest vineyards—the region’s first commercial crop was released in 1987—Central Otago is already expected to overtake Martinborough as the country’s leading producer of pinot noir. The rocky terrain and cool climate also yield stellar pinot gris, Riesling, and gewürztraminer varietals, many of which can be sampled at Gibbston Valley (Gibbston RD1, State Hwy. 6, Queenstown; 64/3-442-6910, gvwines.co.nz), the area’s first commercial vineyards. Other vineyards to watch include Mt. Difficulty (Felton Rd., Bannockburn, Cromwell; 64/3-445-3445, mtdifficulty.co.nz), Rippon (246 Mt Aspiring Rd., Wanaka; 64/3-443-8084, rippon.co.nz), and Black Ridge Vineyard (Conroys Rd., Clyde; 64/3-449-2059, blackridge.co.nz), the world’s southernmost vineyard.
Queenstown’s heightened tourist appeal has fostered a robust restaurant scene, with a casual alpine flair reminiscent of Banff and Vail. That said, you’ll find high-end cuisine at sophisticated Wai Waterfront Restaurant (Steamer Wharf, Queenstown; entrées from $24; 64/3-442-5969, wai.net.nz), which serves up Bluff oysters—a South Island specialty—with stunning lakefront views; casual Pier 19 (Steamer Wharf, Queenstown; entrées from $19; 64/3-442-4006, 19th.co.nz), known for more homespun dishes like turbot pie; and exclusive The Bunker (Cow La., Queenstown; entrées from $23; 64/3-441-8030, thebunker.co.nz), where local offerings such as venison and lamb get top billing. No visit here would be complete without sampling three utterly unpretentious local institutions: the convivial pasta and pizza bistro known as Cow Restaurant (Cow La., Queenstown; entrées from $8; 64/3-442-8588); Joe’s Garage (Searle La., Queenstown; entrées from $7, closed for dinner; 64/3-442-5282), where locals refuel at breakfast or lunch; and Fergburger (42 Shotover St., Queenstown; entrées from $7; 64/3-441-1232, fergburger.com), a hole-in-the-wall hamburger joint.
Queenstown’s popularity has also led to some of the highest hotel rates in New Zealand, with peak-season prices topping $1,000 a night at luxury hotels like the five-star Blanket Bay (Glenorchy; suites from $879/night, with two meals; 64/3-441-0115, blanketbay.com), the secluded lakeside lodge where Jennifer Aniston and Brad Pitt honeymooned. In comparison, centrally located The Spire (Church La., Queenstown; from $562/night, with airport transfers and breakfast; 64/3-441-0003, thespirehotels.com) qualifies as a smart splurge; its 10 modern rooms come with fireplaces and lakeview balconies. The best-value option, the new 19-room Queenstown Park Boutique Hotel (21 Robins Rd., Queenstown; from $245/night, with breakfast; 64/3-441-0004, queenstown park.co.nz) near the Skyline Gondola, hosts a nightly cocktail hour that encourages guests to discuss the day’s adventures over a glass of Central Otago wine.
Arrowtown
Delightful Arrowtown, just 20 minutes from Queenstown, is the region’s only site of historical significance; it morphed into a gold-mining town after the precious metal was discovered in 1862. A harrowing reminder of the era’s hardships is found in the town’s historic Chinese Settlement, where vestiges remain of the claustrophobic quarters occupied by hardscrabble Chinese gold miners who came as speculators in the late 1800s. Otherwise, Arrowtown today seems plucked from New England and dropped into the Wild West, with gorgeous foliage framing attractive period buildings along the main drag, Buckingham Street. There you’ll find all manner of artisan boutiques (try the chocolate maker Patagonia) (50 Beach St., Queenstown; 64/3-442-9066 40 Buckingham St., Arrowtown; 64/3-409-8584, patagoniachocolates.co.nz), first-rate bistros (like Saffron—one of the country’s best; Buckingham St., Arrowtown; entrées from $24; 64/3-442-0131, saffronrestaurant.co.nz; and its sibling Pesto—for superb pizza and pasta; Buckingham St., Arrowtown; entrées from $11; 64/3-442-0885, pesto.co.nz), lively bars (the cozy Blue Door) (Buckingham Street, Arrowtown; entrées from $11; 64/3-442-0885, pesto.co.nz), and a wonderfully old-fashioned movie theater (the adorable Dorothy Browns) (Buckingham St., Arrowtown; entrées from $11; reservations recommended; 64/3-442-0885, pesto.co.nz).
Fiordland National Park
The majestic 3-million-acre Fiordland National Park (www.fiordland.org.nz), which claims domain over the southwestern coast of South Island, is wild and pristine. Its windswept coastline rims the Tasman Sea, while deep glacial fjords wend inland, carved into serrated snowcapped peaks. Dolphin and seal sightings are common—as are impromptu waterfalls and colorful rainbows. Indeed, the landscape is so magical, the area was deemed a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site in 1986, and today, day-tripping from Queenstown to the park’s most famous fjord—the 13.6-mile Milford Sound—is an absolute rite of passage. For a comprehensive view, take Air Milford’s 4-hour Fly-Cruise-Fly package (see “Smart Splurges") for a scenic flight and an intimate cruise—minus the throngs of tourists who descend by bus.
