China spans glacial mountains, lush rainforests, and dense, multifaceted cities

China spans glacial mountains, lush rainforests, and dense, multifaceted cities

Guide

China 101

Hotels

Many first-time China visitors avoid corporate chain hotels and stay at Chinese brand hotels, thinking it Many first-time China visitors avoid corporate chain hotels and stay at Chinese brand hotels, thinking it will be a better value and/or cultural experience, but Chinese owned and operated hotels charge the same as the foreign chains and most often offer inferior service and amenities. Beware of China's star-rating system for hotels, using it as your guide will likely prove disappointing even if you book a so-called 5-star hotel. Ratings come from Beijing authorities and are awarded to properties based upon their amenities immediately after opening with no regard for maintenance and upkeep, making the system virtually worthless. We've outlined the best hotels in each city below; no matter your budget you're sure to find one that suits.

Hong Kong
Chain hotels abound in Hong Kong, but most cater to leisure travelers, with opulent spas and restaurants. Prices are considerably higher than on the mainland. Our pick for a smart splurge is the Landmark Mandarin Oriental (011-852-2132-0188; rooms from $398; www.mandarinoriental.com) which has spacious rooms with clean, contemporary lines. A great value is Philippe Starck's new Jia (011-852-6882-8888; rooms from $231; www.jiahongkong.com) in hip Causeway Bay, which offers Venetian chandeliers, plump satin armchairs, and entry to the private Kee Club.

Macau
The Mandarin Oriental (011-853-2856-7888; rooms from $139; www.mandarinoriental.com) is our luxury value pick for its central location and landscaped outdoor pool. More colonial, the boutiquey Pousada de São Tiago (011-853-378-111; rooms from $320; www.saotiago.com.mo), has large rooms overlooking the 17th-century fortress.

Shanghai
Shanghai's hotels are dominated by pricey, 5-star business brands that rarely offer discounts. Our smart splurge pick is 88 Xintiandi (rooms from $288; www.88xintiandi.com), located downtown, with modern suites with balcony views and access to the adjacent private Villa du Lac restaurant/club. For great value, we love the 12-room Old House Inn (011-86-21-6248-6118; rooms from $90; www.oldhouse.cn), a renovated lane house in the French Concession. In February Jia (sister to the boutique Hong Kong hotel of the same name; 011-86-21-6217-9000; rooms from $275; www jiahongkong.com) opened on hip Nanjing Road.

Hangzhou
Our top pick for lodging is the Hangzhou Xihu State Guesthouse (011-86-571-8797-9889-7806; rooms from $83; www.xihusgh.com), a slightly Spartan lakeside retreat of the Party elite, which offers the most charming accommodations in town.

Suzhou
Suzhou's hotel scene has yet to really get going, though the guest book at the newly-renovated leafy Garden Hotel (011-86-512-6778-6778; rooms from $163; www.gardenhotelsz.com) includes Mao Tse-tung, Teng Hsiao-p'ing, and Jimmy Carter.

Beijing
After a slow start, Beijing's high-end hotel scene is picking up speed and the city now offers the best range of accommodations in all of China. For short visits, it's wise to book a room near major sights in Wangfujing Dajie, but most of the luxe hotels are found in the Chaoyang District, near the embassies. The stylish and classic Raffles Beijing (011-8610-6526-3388; rooms from $458; www.beijing.raffles.com) in Wangfujing is our smart splurge; it recreates its Singapore sister's timelessness, down to its Asian furnishings, high-backed leather armchairs, and signature Beijing Sling cocktail. Each of the five rooms at Red Capital Residence (011-8610-8403-5308; rooms from $190; www.redcapitalclub.com.cn) has a unique historic theme, such as the Chairman's Suite, decorated with Mao-era furniture and memorabilia. Our great value pick is the brand new Hotel Kapok (011-8610-6525-9988; rooms from $100 www.hotelkapok.com), with 80 warm, modernist rooms, and hotel amenities like private bars, a small library, and a fitness room.

Xi'an
Large-scale hotel construction is underway in Xi'an. Our top choice is the small, friendly Shang Hao Binguan (Jianshe Xi Lu 8; 011-8629-8553-9111), which offers spacious rooms.

Yunnan Province
Nestled amid eucalyptus trees near Dianchi Lake is Dianchi Garden Hotel and Spa (011-86-871-4334-888; rooms from $100), with gorgeous views.

See China Travel GuideSee Hong Kong Travel Guide

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