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Finding good regional food in China is the same as anywhere else: you have to seek it out. Organized tour groups often treat visitors to cheap, lackluster, pan-Asian dishes designed to minimize complaints and keep costs down. It really pays to try the regional specialty of the area you’re in and seek out your own restaurants, off-the-beaten path. If traveling with a tour group, break away during mealtimes to experience your own deeper connection with the food. Many servers will always suggest the most expensive dish on the menu, so be weary of recommendations. Chinese food is designed to be eaten in pairs or larger groups, so if you’re dining solo, ask for small portions (xiao pan), which are found on most menus, and are about three-quarters the size (and cost) of regular dishes. If asked what kind of tea you'd like, assume you will be charged for it, and note that some teas can cost more than the meal itself. Don’t ask for or expect a fortune cookie (though its roots go back to the Mongols, the modern-day cookie custom was actually invented in California). Tipping is appreciated but not expected.

Hong Kong
Hong Kong has the most ethnically diverse cuisine in China. Our dining picks include Lumiere at Two IFC Tower (011-852-2393-3933), blending floor-to-ceiling harbor views and inventive South American-Szechuan cuisine. For local flavor try Yung Kee (www.yungkee.com.hk), whose signature roast goose has sated diners for more than 50 years. Hong Kong's 5-star hotels also offer top-grade cuisine, notably Nobu (opened at the InterContinental in fall 2006), Gaddi's (Peninsula), and Alain Ducasse's Spoon.

Macau
Sample Macanese cuisine (a fusion of Cantonese and Portuguese) at Henri's Galley (011-853-556-251), renowned for spicy prawns, roast fish, and African chicken. Venture over to romantic Fernando's (011-853-328-264) in Colôane, for traditional Portuguese fare.

Shanghai
We love the stellar Asian-Australian fusion at T8 (www.t8shanghai.com) in Xintiandi. But Shanghai is known for its “drunken” dishes marinated in local Shaoxing wine. Baoluo (Fùmín Lù 271; 011-86-21-6279-2827) is a local spot that serves it, as well as dishes like braised mushroom with crab and twice-cooked lamb in pancakes.

Hangzhou Good restaurants are in relatively short supply, but be sure to check out the ancient Hangzhounese cuisine, marked by refreshing combinations of local pork or lake-caught fish with vegetables, often mixed with bamboo shoots. The dinner cruises at Lou Wai Lou are a romantic way to experience the unique beauty of this city.

Suzhou
Suzhou's dining scene has yet to really get going, but evening dinner on the waterside Garden Brasserie (011-86-512-6510-3388; rooms from $230; www.sheraton-suzhou.com) terrace is romantic.

Beijing
Restaurants open and close quickly in Beijing, so be sure to call before showing up. The city offers a great and diverse selection of affordable international fare but be sure to check out Andie Anniang (Chaoyang Gongyuan; 011-8610-6591-0231), in a sweet charming setting with delicious Beijing cuisine. We also love the fanciful Alice in Wonderland-esque decor and organic, tea-infused New Chinese cuisine at Green T House (www.green-t-house.com). But our favorite is the tasty and succulent signature Peking Duck served in a modern interpretation of a Beijing courtyard kitchen at Made in China (www.beijing.grand.hyatt.com).

Xi'an
Xi'an is famed for its delicious dumplings (baozi), available everywhere. We love the ones at Jiasan Guàntang Baozi (011-8629-8725-7507) as well as its other spicy Xi'an dishes.

Yunnan Province
Kunming is the best bet, and though it lacks top-grade hotels and dining, the town's tea houses offer the region's famed pu'er tea.

See China Travel GuideSee Hong Kong Travel Guide