Sherman's Travel

Expert Review

The isolated Kuna Yala archipelago, a string of 365 coral islands that hug Panama's coast near Colombia, is part of the semi-autonomous homeland of the Kuna Indians, who in 1925 won independence from Panama. Few ancient tribes have been as successful in preserving their culture and controlling their own destiny. Surviving mostly off the coconut trade and fishing, the Kuna Indians welcome a limited number of tourists. The Yandup Island lodge offers thatched overwater cabins with wooden floors-a luxury for the area-and terraces overlooking the sea and the misty jungle. The setting-grassy, palm-studded Yandup Island-is not much larger than some miniature golf courses. Included in the price are meals and escorted day trips via dugout canoes to deserted islands for swimming and snorkeling. The lodge's use of outboard motors is a rare concession to modernity. To see secluded spots like the Kuna village Playón
Chico, forgo a group tour and ask for a private, less conspicuous visit.

Tags: beach | off the path | moderate | all-inclusive