American Southwest Perfect Trip

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The Southwest United States cradles the spirit of America – from the awe-inspiring natural wonders and spectacular scenery that defines the legendary imagery of the Great American West, to the ubiquitous presence of ruins and reservations that hold living tribute to the nation's Native American past.

The essence of the non-conformist, adventuresome American pioneer still thrives here, manifested by the young artists and musicians that flock to progressive enclaves like Arizona's Sedona or Jerome, as well as the fourth-generation cowboys that take pride in running the family ranch, decked out in ten-gallon hats and smokin' leather boots (although the onset of modern-day America means you're as likely to spot them rounding up merchandise at a local Wal-Mart as cattle at the rodeo). Some, understandably, frown upon the transformation of the Southwest's wondrous wilderness into commercialized development. However, it is exactly the formula of (slightly) rebellious spirits combined with visionary ideas that has managed to cultivate some outrageous, yet irrefutably appealing modern-day phenomena here, as well; witness vivacious Las Vegas.

The best way to experience the area is by car – the Southwest was inherently designed for road trips, because out here, it's not just the destination, but the journey. A five-hour drive through the region's surreal natural landscapes, where the good earth stretches as far as the eye can see, seems to fly by faster than a 30-minute drive in city traffic. And indeed, there is perhaps no more quintessential road-trip route than Route 66, a good portion of which is found out this way, in Arizona. The highway is a testament to America's love affair with the automobile, and to the exhilaration brought on by the infinite possibilities of the wide-open road, while Arizona itself is a particularly splendid microcosm of the greater Southwest region, offering an untamed, rugged terrain, and a chance to commune with amazing natural landscapes that are scarcely found in other parts of the United States, let alone the world. From the saguaro cacti of the Sonoran Desert region of Phoenix and the red-rock country and lush green forests of Sedona, to the majesty of the Grand Canyon and the snow-capped mountains of Flagstaff, the state's tremendous beauty will have you exclaiming at the sheer splendor of it all.

The wonders of the region hardly stop in Arizona, however. A quick visit, upwards, into Southern Utah is also a mandatory part of any bona fide Southwestern road trip. No fewer than five phenomenal national parks compete here for road-tripping travelers in search of the great outdoors. A series of scenic byways connect this quintet of land preserves, leading to such gems as Bryce Canyon National Park, with its freakish landscapes of orange- and red-hued sandstone pinnacles stretching towards the horizon, in an ostensible display of extraterrestrial terrain.

Of course it's not all about the wilds of Mother Nature (although, indeed, a lot of it is!); Nevada also commands its share of the pie, with the neon-lights of Las Vegas a beacon of activity amidst serene desert surroundings. The city attracts an unending throng of 24-hour party people looking to strike it rich or just let their hair down in the world's largest adult playground.

We've whipped up a two-week itinerary through the wonders of the West that will fill your appetite for the Southwest as good as any cowboy's 16-ounce Ribeye Steak. Plan on flying into Tucson and covering a lot of ground before flying back out of Las Vegas, on Day 14. Factor in two days exploring Tucson and Tombstone, three days in the Phoenix metropolitan area, two days in Sedona, two days exploring the attractions near Route 66, and one each in the Navajo Nation, Southern Utah, the Grand Canyon, and Las Vegas. Stick to our itinerary, and you're in for the perfect trip. So, clear two weeks of your vacation calendar, rent the most fabulous car that your pocketbook can afford, grab a good map, and a pair of stylin' sunglasses – now rev your engines and set off on the road trip of a lifetime!

EXPLORING SOUTHERN ARIZONA: TUCSON TO TOMBSTONE
A flight into Tucson, Arizona's second-largest city, delivers you directly into the heart of the ‘Wild, Wild West' of your imagination. Don't be surprised to find yourself with your nose pressed against the plane's window, awed by the sprawling desert vistas of tall saguaro cacti and the spectacular peaks of Santa Catalina Mountains. Once on ground, you'll quickly discover an incomparable cultural crossroads where American, Native American, and Mexican customs and traditions have simmered to perfection for more than two centuries.

Given an early morning arrival, plan on budgeting a full day of activities in the Tucson area, where you can anticipate an up-close-and-personal encounter with the cinematic Wild West, as well as natural desert landscapes. The first stop, Old Tucson Studios (201 S. Kinney Rd.; daily 10am–6pm; $12.95; www.oldtucson.com), is about 12 miles west of the city, in Tucson Mountain Park. Built in the 1930s as a stage set for Western films, this replica of an old 1860s Western town was famously used in the Gunfight at the OK Corral and in more recent productions, like The Three Amigos and Tombstone. Today, the one-time exclusive movie set has become a Wild West theme park, complete with daily (staged) gunfights on Main Street and family-friendly gold-panning activities.

About two miles west of the studios, the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum (2021 N. Kinney Rd.; daily, Mar–Sept. 7.30am–5pm & Oct.-Feb. 8.30am-5pm; Sat. 7.30am–10pm in summer; $12; www.desertmuseum.org) is a fantastic desert zoo and natural history park where you can encounter desert wildlife that you might not want to come across on your own in the wild – namely tarantulas, rattlesnakes, scorpions, coyotes, and mountain lions – all safely cordoned off.

Just north of the Desert Museum lies the western part of the Saguaro National Park (daily 9am–5 pm; $10/car; www.nps.gov/sagu), where you'll easily understand why Tucson so strongly celebrates its Sonoran Desert setting. This absolute wonderland of cacti "forests" is connected by the scenic 9-mile Bajada Loop Drive – with plenty of photo ops of the mammoth desert plants which, while unique to the Sonoran Desert ecosystem, are among the most quintessential Southwest symbols. Several short hiking trails will also bring you up close to the multi-armed saguaros, which can grow up to 50-feet high and live as long as 200 years! If you visit in spring, you'll benefit from the added spectacle of blossoming white flowers contrasting against the green cacti. Be sure to incorporate a sunset visit to the park's Signal Hill, accessible by just a short hike; it offers fantastic vistas of the desert giants.

Plan on departing from here directly to overnight in Tombstone, which is located about 70 miles to the southeast via the I-10 to AZ 80.

TOMBSTONE
One of the most famous towns in the Southwest, Tombstone was immortalized, thanks in large part to Hollywood, by the gun-slinging showdown that took place at the OK Corral on October 26, 1881 between the good guys – Doc Holliday and the Earp brothers – and the outlaws – Ike Clanton and Frank and Tom McLaury. "The town too tough to die" has indeed managed to live on long after the once-flourishing mining population took off, although today its livelihood is based almost solely on accommodating the tourists who come in search of remnants of its Wild West past – saloons, gun slingers, and rugged cattle-herding cowboys.

Arriving after dusk, you may want to wander through the dusty streets and pop in through the swinging door of a local old-style saloon, where you can throw back a drink or two (or more depending on how wild you want your wild west trip to be!). A couple of the town's livelier saloons include the restored Crystal Palace (Allen and Fifth streets; www.crystalpalacesaloon.com), dating back to 1879, and Big Nose Kate's (417 E. Allen St.; www.bignosekate.com).

Day 2: Tombstone to Scottsdale
Get an early start in Tombstone, taking in the Tombstone Western Heritage Museum (AZ 80 and Sixth St.; Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 12.30-6pm; $5), home to an exhibit related to the town's iconic Earps – Wyatt, Virgil, and Morgan – and the outlaw crew they battled, before heading to the famous OK Corral itself (308 E. Allen St.; daily 9am-5pm; $7.50 including gunfight; www.ok-corral.com), the site of the notorious 30-second showdown. These days, the shootout is reenacted daily at 2pm.

Also set aside some time to check out the historic buildings in town – while many now house souvenir shops and restaurants, the imposing Tombstone Courthouse State Park (219 Toughnut St.; daily 8am–5pm; $3–$10; www.pr.state.az.us) features interesting displays on the town's history; don't miss the courtyard gallows where many outlaws met their makers.

Plan on leaving Tombstone by mid-afternoon to make the 180-mile trek northwest to Phoenix–Scottsdale; you'll want to make time for a scenic one-hour diversion just east of Tucson, where the 25-mile Sky Island Scenic Byway (or, Mount Lemmon Highway) ascends the 9000-foot Mount Lemmon, the tallest peak in the Santa Catalina Mountains, along a twisting mountain road lined with an amazing range of ecosystems. Don't be surprised to see a stunning array of cacti and desert plans gradually give way to cool, verdant pine and juniper trees as you reach higher altitudes, all with panoramic vistas of Tucson, below.

THE VALLEY OF THE SUN: PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE, & ENVIRONS
Phoenix, Arizona's capital and largest city, is the pulsating center of "The Valley of the Sun," a term that loosely refers to the 400-square mile area around the metropolis and which takes in outlying communities like Scottsdale and Tempe. This area has enjoyed immense growth in recent years – thanks in large part to the advent of air conditioning. Although set in a desert, it's actually only in summer that the weather can be considered insufferable in these parts, since, most other times of the year, the Valley enjoys a wonderfully temperate climate, boasting some 300+ annual days of sunshine.

Unlike most other major metropolises, cityscapes are the last thing you'll be interested in here, as abundant nearby natural phenomena will beckon you to explore. We recommend using Scottsdale as a home base for a three-night stay in the area – there are plenty of first-rate resorts, luxurious spas, restaurants, and happening nightlife – in short, everything you wouldn't expect to find in the desert.

Day 3: Best of Phoenix
As an introduction to the area, head to Camelback Mountain (Tatum Blvd. and McDonald Dr.; http://phoenix.gov), a defining landmark located in the Echo Canyon Recreation Area, near the boundaries of Phoenix and Scottsdale. Such an awesome natural setting is rarely found so close to urban centers, and hiking or jogging the 1.16-mile Summit Trail to the top of Phoenix's highest mountain is a popular local pastime. While it can be strenuous, the 2.32-mile round-trip trek is well worth the effort for the astounding views of the surrounding valley and metropolitan area. Aim to do it in the morning hours, before it gets too hot – and don't forget to bring plenty of water and sunscreen.

Duck out of the afternoon sun, and visit the Heard Museum (2301 N. Central Ave.; daily 9.30am–5pm; $10; www.heard.org), in downtown Phoenix, where a wonderful Native American art and archaeology collection is on display. The real highlights here are works by indigenous peoples of the Southwest – Navajos, Hopis, and Apaches – many of whom still reside on nearby reservations.

To really get a close look at the amazing desert-plant life of Arizona's Sonoran Desert, round out your afternoon with a visit to the 50-acre Desert Botanical Gardens (1201 N. Galvin Hwy.; daily Oct–April 8am–8pm, May–Sept 7am–8pm; $10; www.dbg.org), a substantial expanse that's home to 139 rare cacti species from around the world and laced with walking paths popular to desert animals and birds. As sundown nears, the garden cacti are illuminated by soft lights and assorted night-blooming flowers begin to show their colors.

Day 4: Shops and Spas of Scottsdale
Spend your second day in the area exploring Phoenix's northeastern neighbor, the city of Scottsdale. This posh resort town is where beautiful people, hoity-toity boutiques, extravagant homes, luxurious spas and resorts, and chic nightlife converge in the Southwest. It's also your last chance to indulge in the comforts of big-city life, from shopping to spa treatments, before venturing into the rugged outdoors of Arizona's back country.

You could easily spend the morning shopping at our two favorite spots: The Borgata (6166 N. Scottsdale Rd.; www.borgata.com), where 40 one-of-a-kind shops are laid out in a mall designed to resemble a medieval Italian village, and the Western-themed Old Town Scottsdale neighborhood, where you're sure to stumble across turquoise jewelry, cowboy paintings, Navajo rugs, Mexican crafts, or some other decidedly Southwestern token.

Book a midday visit to a local spa and indulge in a significant aspect of Scottsdale's "pamper-me" culture. If you're not staying at a Scottsdale resort with an in-house spa, you can still get a day pass to visit one. If you can afford the splurge, we recommend the Sanctuary Spa at Camelback Mountain (5700 E. Mcdonald Dr.; 480/948-2100; $135+; www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com), an Asian-inspired spa with a multitude of outdoor, natural treatments. For treatments more in line with the Southwest's Native American heritage and desert setting, get smothered in an adobe clay body mask or exfoliated with a cactus and aloe moisturizer at the Spa at Camelback Inn (5402 East Lincoln Dr.; 800/922-2635; www.camelbackspa.com); treatments here start at $75.

Scottsdale is also a thriving visual-arts center, with a huge concentration of art galleries and studios – more than 125 in all. The Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (7374-7380 E. Second St.; Tue–Wed 10am–5pm, Thurs 10am–8pm; Fri–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 12pm–5pm, closed Mon; $7, free on Thurs; www.smoca.org) is definitely worth a visit, as are the galleries in the downtown Scottsdale Arts District, many of which maintain evening hours; try and coordinate your visit during the weekly Scottsdale ArtWalk (Thurs 6pm–9pm; www.scottsdalegalleries.com/artwalks.html) that includes multiple galleries along Main Street.

Day 5: The Apache Trail
You'll want to wake up early for day 5 to head out on a day trip that's just outside the metropolitan area, but a world away in every other respect. Apache Junction, 30 miles east of Phoenix via US 60, signals the start of the Apache Trail (or AZ 88), a 48-mile-long route marked by breathtaking scenery, ghost towns, and ancient Indian ruins, all in the shadows of the Superstition Mountains – it's well worth devoting an entire day (many opt for more), but make sure to time your stops accordingly if you want to make it back to Scottsdale for the night. (Note: Some of the terrain is rugged out this way, complete with unpaved gravel roads and hairpin turns. Although the trip can certainly be made by car, it's not a trip for the weary. If you prefer, you can hire a jeep tour to do the driving for you; Apache Trail Tours, runs half-day and day-long tours ($75–$165; www.apachetrailtours.com)

Heading east on AZ 88, the first stop of interest below the towering Superstition Mountains is quirky Goldfield Ghost Town (4650 N. Mammoth Mine Rd..; daily 10am–5pm, saloon til 8pm; www.goldfieldghosttown.com), an abandoned-mining-town-turned-tourist attraction. Pull over to tour the old mine, pan for gold, check out tarantulas and scorpions (happily, confined to aquariums!), or even pose for pictures in front of a reconstructed brothel.

Continuing east for a few miles, the Lost Dutchman State Park (6109 N. Apache Trail; daily dawn–10pm; $3–$10; www.pr.state.az.us) is a good stop to pick up trailheads leading into the Superstition wilderness; there are also areas for picnicking and camping. If you're feeling like a swim instead, drive another few miles and take a dip in Canyon Lake (16802 NE Hwy. 88; daily 7am–7pm; $10 weekdays, $15 weekends; www.canyonlakemarina.com) a 950-acre expanse set in a beautiful gorge.

About two miles past Canyon Lake, you'll come across Tortilla Flat (1000 W. Apache Trail; www.tortillaflataz.com) which once served as a stagecoach stop on the Apache Trail. The buildings in the small complex (and entire town, in fact) today are all reconstructed, but it's worth a stop to wet your whistle at the old Superstition Saloon all the same. The Old Fashioned Ice Cream & Candy Store also dishes up scoops of the town's famous prickly-pear-cactus ice cream.

Once back on the road, the pavement ends a few miles further east and the rugged adventure begins – don't become so mesmerized by the spectacular desert scenery that you forget to pay attention to the road! Continue for about 15 miles to Apache Lake, where the Apache Lake Marina and Resort (www.apachelake.com) offers fishing-boat rentals from $10/hour and a waterside restaurant serving up American fare. (You can opt to stay the night here from $75).

The Roosevelt Dam and its surrounding lake (as well as the resumption of paved road) greet you about 15 miles east from here. Eastward still is the Tonto National Monument (AZ 188; daily 8am–5pm; $3; www.nps.gov/tont), where you can check out some ancient Salado Indian cliff dwellings – it's one of few such sites that still allows visitors to walk around inside the ruins. Finally, pass through the town of Globe, which signals your cue to head back to the Phoenix area, about 80 miles to the west via US 60.

RED ROCK COUNTRY: SEDONA
Giddy' up cowboys (and cowgirls!), it's time to hit the road from cushy Scottsdale and head north via I-17 for about 120 miles to superb Sedona. There are a couple of worthwhile stops along the way, so plan on leaving early, and on arriving in late afternoon at your Sedona home base for the next few days.

Day 6: En-Route to Sedona
The first attraction of interest along the I-17 is the Montezuma Castle National Monument (Exit 289 off I-17; daily 8am–5pm, 6pm in summer; $3; www.nps.gov/moca), just north of Camp Verde, where some of Arizona's more easily accessible cliff dwellings can be observed. Although the site isn't actually a castle, nor was the Aztec ruler whose namesake it bears ever here, the ruins of the Sinagua Indians who used these dwelling in the 1300s are quite remarkable, all the same.

Backtrack to Camp Verde on the I-17, and take the AZ 260 northwest to AZ 89A west in order to reach the next stop on your approach to Sedona: the fascinating mining-town-turned-artists-haven Jerome (www.jeromechamber.com). Precariously perched on a series of cliff-top promontories overlooking Sedona's red-rock country, this onetime mining town had deteriorated to a mere ghost town before being lovingly restored by local craftspeople and artists, who were so enchanted by the views and ambiance (not to mention turned off by rising rent prices in nearby Sedona, 28 miles northeast of here), that they decided to stay and set up shop.

Plan on breaking here for lunch, and on spending a few hours exploring the funky art galleries, shops, and historic buildings, as well as admiring the breathtaking views over Sedona. The varying elevation of the mountainside community has resulted in a series of tiered streets, and the narrow little stairwells that adjoin them add to Jerome's distinct charm. When you're ready, follow scenic road 89A west into Sedona.

Days 6–7: Superb Sedona
If you're looking for a sublime experience and are a lover of the great outdoors, Mother Nature has blessed you with Sedona. Known for its massive, monolithic, red-rock formations that seemingly change color and form with every passing ray of sunlight, Sedona's almost otherworldly scenery has long beckoned visitors to stand in awe amidst its grandeur. Voted the most beautiful place in the United States by USA Today, the area's unique Southwestern beauty has historically set the stage for sacred Native American ceremonies and, more recently, provided the scenic backdrops for hundreds of Hollywood westerns and films. We recommend staying here for two nights to get a good sampling of the rich cultural and outdoor activities of the area.

Sedona offers plenty of natural splendors. Whatever you do, get out onto the rocks and explore – the higher you get, the more you'll appreciate the amazing vistas of the surrounding area, loaded with striking red rocks – many of which have been named for their resemblance to man-made objects (such as Bell, Courthouse, or Coffee Pot Rocks) – and lush greenery that stretches for as far as the eye can see. Plan on devoting at least a full morning to hiking, biking, or horseback riding, or taking a jeep tour; pick out whatever massive rock formation strikes your fancy – and go for it.

That said, if there's one rock everyone must pay homage to, it's Cathedral Rock, whose red-hued, sandstone towers and dramatic buttes and pinnacles majestically overlook the land below – you can opt to hike to the top of it or simply admire it from afar. Native Americans revered Cathedral Rock as a home of the gods, and as the birthplace of the first man and woman. It's also one of several areas in Sedona believed to be a spiritual power center, or ‘vortex', that has the ability to strengthen, energize, and inspire the inner spirits of all those who come near it. Whether or not you care to believe in any of the lore surrounding the area, it is undoubtedly a place of incredible beauty.

A great vantage point from which to view the rock is Red Rock Crossing in Coconino National Forest (off FR 216/Upper Red Rock Loop Rd..; daily 8am–8pm; www.fs.fed.us); coordinate a sunset visit, when Cathedral Rock seems to almost glow from within. (Note: To park on Forest Service land, a Red Rock Pass is required; pick one up at the visitor centers in town, some hotels, or at self-service machines at numerous trailheads; $7/day).

Be sure to set aside time for a guided jeep tour, as well – the jeep's traction will easily bring you along otherwise inaccessible dirt-paved roads. Earth Wisdom Jeep Tours (293 N. 89A; 2-5 hour tours from $48; www.earthwisdomjeeptours.com) offers specialty "vortex" and "medicine wheel" jeep tours, complete with an informed guide.

Back in the town of Sedona, shopping promises some fantastic finds in one-of-a-kind boutiques, many of which cater to New Age and esoteric merchandise. There are also numerous art galleries worth visiting that highlight Western and Native American art, as well as more contemporary motifs. Factor in a visit, as well, to Tlaquepaque (336 AZ 179; www.tlaq.com), a replica of a Mexican village built in Spanish Colonial style, and filled with dozens of shops, restaurants, and galleries.

NORTHERN ARIZONA

Day 8: Flagstaff and Route 66
Time to head on out to Northern Arizona – start off bright and early, driving through the scenic Oak Creek Canyon en route to Flagstaff (30 miles north of Sedona, via 89A), where the city's 7000-foot mountainside elevation can mean the difference between sweating in a tank top in the deserts of Phoenix and shivering without a sweater here.

Continue a few miles north out of Flagstaff on US 89 to connect with the Sunset Crater/Wupatki Loop, a 35-mile paved "loop" road lined with interesting sights. First up is the Sunset Crater National Monument (daily dawn–dusk; $5; www.nps.gov/sucr), a national park where ancient lava-covered land is just now beginning to show signs of vegetation, 900 years after a volcanic eruption. Head out on an easy one-mile trail for better looks at the rugged lava flow and volcanic crater. Carry on along the loop, and plan on a good 45-minute pause at the Wuptaki National Monument (daily dawn–dusk; $5; www.nps.gov/wupa), where impressive red-stone ruins of Sinagua Indian pueblo dwellings are set in the midst of a wide open plain.

At this point, you're just about 40 miles south of the Grand Canyon, so this is a good time to continue on north if you're short on time – but be warned, you'll miss out on some of the amazing offerings found in northeast Arizona and southern Utah.

Back south on the US 89 towards Flagstaff, hop on the I-40 east to reach historic Route 66, also dubbed the "Mother Road." A series of unusual monuments line the interstate, like the 550-ft deep Meteor Crater (Exit 233 off I-40; daily 8am–5pm, 7am–7pm in summer; $15; www.meteorcrater.com), left by a meteor that slammed into the earth some 50,000 years ago. The desolate and almost alien terrain of the site's interior was used as a training center for NASA astronauts for the Apollo moon landing. While you can't go down into the immense crater these days, you can still join an hour-long guided rim tour (departs on the hour; 9.15am–2.15pm) offering access to some fantastic vantage points of the gaping hole. There's an interesting museum and theater worth taking a gander at, as well.

Plan on crashing for the night at the very kitsch WigWam Motel (811 W. Hopi Dr.; $42+; www.wigwammotel.com), in Holbrook – it's just the sort of place you're obligated to stay at while cruising Route 66.

Day 9: The Petrified Forest & Navajo Nation
About 20 miles east of Holbrook is the Petrified Forest National Park (daily mid-May to Labor Day 7am–7pm, til 6pm in fall & spring, 8am–5pm winter; $10/car; www.nps.gov/pefo), which overlaps with the Painted Desert (enter from the south entrance via AZ 180 and work your way north through the park). Best known for its huge concentration of petrified logs and stones – remnants of a lush forest that once stood here that has since turned to stone – it's possible to drive through the 100,000 acres of ever-changing landscapes and think you're on other planets. Budget at least a half-day here, stopping off at the numerous overlooks throughout the park and embarking on short hikes on the surreal terrain. Having a look at these geologic wonders firsthand, as well as the visitor's center display of dinosaur fossils dating back 225 million years, is a surefire way to appreciate both the Earth's longevity and impermanence. Some of the more enigmatic not-to-miss landscapes include Blue Mesa, The Teepees, and the multi-hued pastel colors of the Painted Desert.

To continue on to the Navajo grounds, head east on I-40 and then north on US 191 at the town of Chambers; they're a few miles north of Chambers.

THE NAVAJO NATION
The Navajo nation (www.discovernavajo.com) occupies the largest Native American land reserve in the US, and is one of 22 reservations found in Arizona. Dominating northeastern Arizona, there are some amazing natural settings to be discovered on these designated lands, including the magnificent red-hued sandstone buttes and spires of Monument Valley. Just note that you are subject to the laws of the Navajo Nation while here – there is no alcoholic consumption allowed outside of designated areas – and etiquette, as well – don't take photographs of Navajos without permission. Also note that Daylight Saving time is observed here, unlike in the rest of Arizona, so be sure to take the time difference into account, if applicable to the time of year you visit.

The first noteworthy stop in the reserve is the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site (AZ 264, Ganado; daily summer 8am–6pm, 8am–5pm rest of the year; $2; www.nps.gov/hutr), first opened in 1876, and a historically interesting shop where you can peruse Native American crafts, including Navajo rugs, and fine turquoise jewelry as frontiersman once did.

A must stopover en-route to Monument Valley is the Canyon de Chelly National Monument (off US 191; daily dawn–dusk; free; www.nps.gov/cach), near Chinle, where some wonderfully preserved Anasazi Indian ruins lie inside 1000-foot-high sandstone canyon walls; some 80 Navajo families still live and farm here, too. You can drive along the rims of the canyon, stopping for views at several overlooks, in two to three hours. If you have more time, head out on the 2.5-mile White House Ruins trek through red-rock canyon walls to a small pueblo site – it's the only trail that doesn't require a guide. To hike into the canyon itself, arrange a tour with a Navajo guide at the visitor's center. Plan to overnight in Chinle.

Day 10: Monument Valley
Rise and shine! It's time to hit the road and venture out on the start of a 110-mile journey to Monument Valley. While the entrance to the grounds is technically in Utah, the most scenic parts of Monument Valley lie within Arizona.

On approach to Monument Valley (daily May–Sept 6am–8.30pm, Oct–Apr 8am–4.30pm; $5; www.navajonationparks.org), you'll need a moment to catch your breath as these phenomenal monolithic red sandstone buttes and spires manifest themselves on the horizon. While you've seen this setting many times before in Jeep commercials or old Western movie sets, nothing can quite prepare you for the majesty of it all. The rock formations command such presence and display such character, that they truly seem to be alive.

A 17-mile dirt road winds through the park, past rocks bearing names like Elephant Butte, the Mittens, or Totem Pole. Native American guides can be hired from the visitor's center to provide four-wheel and horseback tours that offer visitors the chance to access areas not open to self-guided tours. We highly recommend sticking around to watch the absolutely breathtaking sunset here, when the red-rocks intensify with fiery hues. If you do so, and want to forego night driving, you may want to consider staying overnight in the area. Otherwise, you can continue forward to get a head start on the wonders of Southern Utah.

SOUTHERN UTAH: MONUMENT VALLEY TO BRYCE CANYON
Heading north out of Monument Valley, you'll soon discover that the phenomenal landscapes of Northern Arizona were only a foreshadowing of the surreal terrain of Southern Utah. Here, windswept red-rock canyons, towering sandstone formations, pristine lakes, and pine-studded mountain ranges combine for an altogether over-the-top sensory experience.

This southern expanse of Utah lays claim to five stunning national parks (the greatest concentration of national parks in the United States, in fact), which sprawl over a wilderness wonderland – a week, if not more of your time, could easily be consumed here, particularly if you're the rugged outdoorsy type. The only arguable downside to the experience is that the predominantly Mormon towns of Utah (an estimated 70% of Utah's population are of Mormon denomination), while friendly enough, are a bit lackluster once the sun goes down – the state's strict liquor laws can make it a challenge to even get a beer. All the same, any true taste of the Southwest demands at least a small sampling of this part of Utah, where unique beauty and seemingly limitless recreational opportunities abound within these park's boundaries.

One full day, with a night's stay, allows for a quick stopover at Natural Bridges National Monument and Capitol Reef National Park, as well as a good half-day exploration of Bryce Canyon. If you have more time, the surrounding national parks at Arches, Canyonlands, and Zion are located in close proximity, and make for spectacular diversions, as well.

Day 11: Highlights of Southern Utah
If you've decided to spend the night in Monument Valley, you'll want to get an early start out, ideally shortly after sunrise, as the drive to the day's final destination at Bryce Canyon spans some 300 miles. Driving straight through, you could tackle this route in about seven hours, but give yourself closer to nine or ten to incorporate the many scenic stop-off points en route, as well as fuel breaks for both you and your car.

Heading out of Monument Valley via US-163, you'll pass through tiny Mexican Hat (so named for a rock formation north of town that resembles an upside-down sombrero), before catching UT-261. You're looking for UT-95, the Bicentennial Scenic Byway, which you'll follow until its terminus in the town of Hanksville – sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride that takes in red-rock gorges and canyons, the sparkling blue waters of Lake Powell, and majestic mountain landscapes – not to mention such attractions as Anasazi Indian ruins, or the National Bridges National Monument.

Natural Bridges National Monument (off UT-95 via UT-275; daily dawn-dusk; $6/car; www.nps.gov/nabr) is the first stopover on UT-95, giving you a chance to get out and stretch your legs in idyllic surroundings. Three massive, natural stone bridges can be easily admired from roadside viewpoints alongside a paved 9-mile loop road. These unique, arching, multi-colored natural bridges are the handiwork of river erosion – not man. Don't miss the Hopi-named Sipapu, which is the second-largest natural bridge in the world, spanning 268 feet and reaching heights of 220 feet.

Northwest of here is the 378-square-mile Capitol Reef National Park (daily 8am–4.30pm, longer in summer; $5/car; www.nps.gov/care), where the chief draw is the unusual 100-mile-long Waterpocket Fold, a wall of multi-colored rock that's buckling from the earth's crust; much of the appeal centers on the so-called Capitol Dome itself – a particular sandstone formation thought by local Mormons to resemble both an ocean reef and the Capitol building's dome, whence its name. UT-24 conveniently passes through the northern section of the park for about 20 miles; don't miss the pull off for the Fremont Petroglyphs, created by Ancestral Puebloans between 700 and 1250 AD. If you have time, drive at least part of the 12-mile Scenic Drive that starts just south of the visitor's center, in the abandoned Mormon-settlement of Fruita (itself a curious diversion). While the townspeople are long gone, the town's namesake fruit orchards are still around and, in harvest season, you can pick and sample fresh pears, peaches, apricots, cherries, and more. The lush greenery of this oasis (made possible by the nearby Freemont River) is a striking contrast to the surrounding red-rock desert.

From Capitol Reef you're about 120 miles northeast of Bryce Canyon National Park. Take UT-24 west for about 10 miles until you hit UT-12, known as Highway 12 Scenic Byway (www.scenicbyway12.com), one of only 20 nationally designated All-American Roads – the highest honor a road can get for attractive scenery. This spectacular route travels away from Capitol Reef, over the forested Boulder Mountain in the Dixie National Forest, and through the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, before winding down near Bryce Canyon. The scenery is unforgettable along the entire length of the road – especially during the brilliant red-rock sunsets that provide a glorious grand finale to a day's driving adventure here.

If you arrive with daylight to spare, feel free to get a head start on your exploration of the Bryce Canyon area; ironically, the most spectacular point for viewing sunsets is not the east-facing Sunset point, but rather the more westerly Paria. If you happen to be in town during the full moon, sign up for a moonlit hike at the visitor's center; if you're in time for the new moon, you can attend a "star talks" telescope viewing. Otherwise, rest up to get a fresh start on your Bryce Canyon adventure in the morning.

Day 12: Bryce Canyon to the Grand Canyon
Awe, inspiration, and appreciation are just some of the feelings that well up when first glimpsing the thousands of flaming orange, red, and pink sandstone spires and pinnacles (collectively called "hoodoos") that spring up from the floor of Bryce Canyon (on UT-63, 3 miles south of UT-12 junction; daily 24 hours, except in case of snow; $20/car; www.nps.gov/brca). The brilliantly colored spectacle of these wind-and-water-carved cliffs and hoodoos is attractively offset by rows of verdant pine trees along the rim. Technically, Bryce Canyon is not an actual canyon but, rather, a series of horseshoe-shaped amphitheaters set along the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. Photography buffs will rejoice at this otherworldly setting, particularly at sunrise, when the vibrantly colored hues take on rich and dramatic dimensions – go to either Sunset or Bryce points should you arrive at dawn.

A 38-mile round-trip scenic drive gives access to the sprawling amphitheaters and their rugged, weathered rock formations from 13 spectacular viewpoints. That said, this is one place where you can actually forego the driving as the park runs a free summer shuttle bus to the most popular points along the rim (buses operate every 12 minutes in summer, between 9am-6pm). You can also take wrangler-guided horseback rides along the rim or into the amphitheater; try Canyon Trail Rides ($40 for 2hrs, $55 for half-day; www.canyonrides.com), based at the Bryce Canyon Lodge.

If you're short on time, stops at the most stunning lookouts – Sunrise, Inspiration, and the aforementioned Sunset and Bryce – offer an ample taste of the park's glorious landscapes. Sunset Point is especially popular, as it overlooks a "Silent City" of fantastic shapes that rises from the canyon floor and affords great views of the majestic sandstone rock formation called Thor's Hammer. If you have additional time, plan for a short hike – the park counts some 50 miles of trails – or a stroll along the rim; it's also possible to hike to the canyon floor and navigate the maze of towering multi-colored spires. Popular trailheads include the 1.4-mile round-trip Navajo Loop and 1.8-mile round-trip Queen's Garden; the latter leads to a scenic section of hoodoos, presided over one said to resemble Queen Victoria, herself.

The next stretch of your journey leads you to the coup de grace of your national-park experience – the mesmerizing and majestic Grand Canyon. From Bryce, it's about 150 miles to the park's North Rim. Even so, it's the South Rim, at 280 miles away, that makes a more popular approach, due to the lodging and amenities available in nearby Grand Canyon Village. Give yourself about 6.5 hours for the drive to the South Rim, and plan on leaving Bryce Canyon no later than 2pm.

Day 13: Exploring the Grand Canyon
Things just don't come much grander than the stunning Grand Canyon (daily 24 hours South Rim; $20 car fee; www.nps.gov/grca), an immense and spectacular chasm in the earth's crust that has been crowned as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Millions of visitors from around the globe descend on Grand Canyon National Park each year to try and wrap their minds around the seemingly infinite reach of the vibrantly colored gorge, which has been sculpted over of millions of years by the raging Colorado River. A masterpiece of Mother Nature, the land is seeped in striking scenery, offering up superb possibilities for ventures into the great outdoors.

The canyon's dimensions are stupendous – it's 277 miles long and over a mile deep to the canyon floor. Before trekking into the canyon, however, we recommend contemplating the awe-inspiring scenery from different vantage points along the South Rim itself. Popular lookout points here include Hopi or Mohave Point, celebrated for their astounding Colorado River and canyon views, as well as Mather Point, which is a renowned vantage point for Grand Canyon sunsets. The picturesque Desert View Watchtower, near the east entrance of the park, is the highest point on the South Rim, offering phenomenal views of the abysmal canyon, as well as the Painted Desert and San Francisco Peaks on the surrounding horizons. You can alternate between hiking sections of the Rim Trail or opt to hop aboard the free Hermits Rest Route or Kaibab Trail Route shuttle buses (every 15–30 minutes; www.nps.gov/grca) that run alongside.

Once you're done up top, four major trailheads enter the canyon on the South Rim; one of the more popular ones is the Bright Angel Trail (12 miles round-trip), which descends from behind the Bright Angel Lodge, in Grand Canyon Village. Another top draw is the fairly strenuous but incredibly scenic South Kaibab Trail (also 12 miles round-trip), that starts near Yaki Point, just east of Grand Canyon Village; this is the route to reach the fabled Phantom Ranch – the only bona fide lodging on the canyon floor. Of course, you're not obligated to complete the entire length of the hike – many day visitors do just a few miles in and out.

A long-standing and traditionally popular alternative to doing the legwork yourself is a mule ride into the canyon's depths (plan to reserve at least six months in advance; www.grandcanyonlodges.com). Whatever way you decide to do it, be sure to bring plenty of water, try to avoid the hot afternoon sun, and keep in mind that these are not loop trails – if you're doing just an in-and-out day hike, remember that as far as you go in is as far as you'll need to venture back out again.

For those who really like to get their adrenaline pumping, it's hard to beat a white-water, white-knuckle rafting trip through the Grand Canyon on the powerful Colorado River; Wilderness River Adventures (www.riveradventures.com), organizes 3.5- to 14-day trips (no day-trips are offered). A quick helicopter tour is also an exhilaratingly popular option – try booking through Papillon Grand Canyon Helicopters ($125/person for 25-30 minutes; www.papillon.com).

Plan to spend at least one night in Grand Canyon Village, where a series of rustic and historical lodgings lie just steps away from the rim – there's nothing quite like waking up in the morning, strolling a few feet away from your bedroom, and having your breakfast overlooking the canyon's rim. (Note that summers are extremely crowded here, so plan your reservations accordingly).

Days 13–14: LAS VEGAS, BABY
There are no two more mind-blowing extremes than waking up next to Mother Nature's ultimate creation at the Grand Canyon, and then stayin up all night in the epitome of mankind's innovative imagination as manifested in Vegas. You can say you did both in one day on Day 13. There are about 275 miles to cover between the Grand Canyon and Las Vegas, so count on at least five hours of driving. As you approach the Arizona / Nevada border on US 93, you will quite literally cross over the top of an enormous dam. If you can bear to take a break with Las Vegas just 30 miles away, the 726-ft-tall Hoover Dam (9am–5pm; $11; $7 parking; www.usbr.gov) is the place to do it – just pull over into the visitor's parking lot and look over the side. The highest concrete dam in the Western Hemisphere, and an engineering marvel to boot, the Hoover Dam was built in the 1930s and fostered the development of the surrounding western states by providing generous water and electricity supplies.

When you're done ogling at the massive structure, continue on the US 93 for about 30 miles (anticipate traffic delays) until the unmistakable Las Vegas skyline takes shape on the horizon. Bright lights, spectacular shows, quirky characters, a little Elvis here, eloping couples there, and – oh yes – lots of gambling, make Las Vegas an experience all its own.

Plan on spending a night in Sin City for the chance to absorb a little bit of its magic. For a more in-depth look at Las Vegas, read our Las Vegas Spotlight.

WHERE TO EAT

Tombstone/Tucson
You won't turn up any eateries dishing out haute cuisine in Tombstone, but you will find plenty serving up a quintessential Southwest atmosphere, like The Lamplight Room (108 N. Fourth St.; 520/457-3716) where the best cooking in town is served in the living room of a late-19th century home. For an inexpensive bite, try the fast and friendly O.K. Café (220 E. Allen St.; 520/457-3980), which prides itself in not being an atypical burger joint, with exotic buffalo or emu burgers on the menu. In Tucson, your best bet is the elegant Janos(3770 E. Sunrise Dr.; 520/615-6100; reservations recommended; www.janos.com), where French-inspired Southwestern dishes combine with an extensive wine list and spectacular views of Tucson for an altogether noteworthy dining experience.

Phoenix / Scottsdale
For the ultimate night on the town in Arizona's capital city, head to T. Cook's (5200 E. Camelback Rd.; 602/808-0766; reservations recommended; www.royalpalmsresortandspa.com), which is located in the Royal Palms Resort and Spa, at the base of Cambelback Mountain, in Phoenix. Mediterranean cuisine is the fare here, and the dining area is appropriately surrounded by lush gardens, while palm trees reach right through the roof of this special-occasion restaurant. For a more casual dining option, Scottsdale's P.F. Chang's China Bistro (7132 E. Greenway Hwy.; 480/367-2999; www.pfchangs.com) is a popular outpost of the national chain, where locals line up for some of the best Chinese food in town, while Houston's (6113 N. Scottsdale Rd.; 480/922-7775; www.houstons.com) is a Scottsdale yuppie magnet, offering up a fresh, young atmosphere, and some great value American dishes, like burgers, spinach dip, soups, and salads.

Sedona
While strolling through the shops of Tiaquepaque Shopping Center, snatch up an outdoor table at El Rincon (Hwy. 179 at The Bridge; 928/282-4648; www.rinconrestaurants.com), where delicious margaritas and authentic Mexican and Navajo-influenced cuisine are served. The charming little Fournos Restaurant (3000 W. Hwy. 89A; 928/282-3331; no cards; reservations recommended) offers a contrast to the many Southwestern eateries so commonplace throughout Sedona, as delectable Greek dishes are on the menu. Dahl & DiLuca (2321 W. Hwy. 89A; 928/282-5219; reservations recommended; www.dahl-diluca.com) serves excellent Italian food in a cozy Tuscan-villa-themed dining room.

Flagstaff /Route 66
One of Flagstaff's best restaurants, the aptly named Cottage Place (126 W. Cottage Ave.; 928/774-8431; reservations recommended; www.cottageplace.com) is indeed located in a quaint little cottage, and is your best bet for a formal dinner, with an eclectic mix of cuisine and an award-winning wine list. For a light bite like pizzas and burgers served with a freshly brewed beer, try the Beaver Street Brewery (11 S. Beaver St.; 928/779-0079; www.beaverstreetbrewery.com), a lively microbrewery frequented by local college students. En-route to the Petrified Forest, stop at Butterfield Stage Co. (609 W. Hopi Dr.; 928/524-3447), in Holbrook; this diner-style restaurant serves up seafood and steak.

Navajo Country
There are slim pickings in terms of fine dining out this way, but there are a few decent places to fuel up. Try Garcia's Restaurant (Garcia Trading Post; 928/674-5000), adjoined to the Holiday Inn near the Canyon de Chelly, which serves breakfast buffets and lunch and dinners highlighting Native, Mexican, and Southwestern cuisine like fajitas and steak sirloin. Out by Monument Valley, Stage Coach Restaurant (435/727-3231; www.gouldings.com) offers decent Navajo and American dishes, with spectacular valley views from Goulding's Lodge.

Bryce Canyon
The Bryce Canyon Lodge Dining Room (Closed Nov–March; reserve at 435/834-5361; www.brycecanyonlodge.com), located within the National Park itself, is by far the best dining option in the area. The lodge atmosphere, Native American décor, and picture-window views overlooking the park complement the changing menu of American-cuisine house specialties.

Grand Canyon Village
The El Tovar Dining Room (928/638-2631 ext. 6432; reservations recommended for dinner), in the canyon-edge El Tovar Hotel, is a rustic, yet classy experience with continental and Southwestern cuisine on the menu and some extraordinary views of the canyon; many contend that it's the best food inside the park, but it's also the priciest. For a less expensive dining option, try Canyon Star (Grand Hotel; AZ 64; 928/638-3333) located just outside the park, in Tusayan. Also featuring creative Southwestern fare, you'll be treated to live entertainment while you eat, such as Native American song and dance performances.

For where to eat in Las Vegas see the Making it Happen section of our Las Vegas Spotlight.

High Season
Tucson: January–March
Phoenix: January–March
Sedona: March–May; September–October
Grand Canyon: June–August
Bryce Canyon: June–August
Las Vegas: March–May; September–October

Low Season
Tucson: June–August
Phoenix: June–August
Sedona: June-August
Grand Canyon: January–March
Bryce Canyon: January–March
Las Vegas: June–August

• Touring Sedona by Jeep

• The scenic drive in Petrified Forest National Park

• Monument Valley at sunset

• Hiking the Queen’s Trail at Bryce Canyon

• Looking over the Grand Canyon

• Strolling “The Strip” in Las Vegas

See American Southwest Travel Guide | See Grand Canyon Travel Guide | See Las Vegas Travel Guide | See Phoenix Travel Guide | See Sedona Travel GuideSee Utah Travel Guide