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Monuments to ancient gods abound in Southeast Asia
Things to Do in Cambodia
In many ways the most culturally intense of all Southeast Asian countries, Cambodia is a beguiling place to discover. The seat of the once all-mighty Khmer Empire gave rise to the temples at Angkor, some of most astonishing art and architecture ever produced in human history. But there's more to this small country than Angkor, like the cosmopolitan flavors of the capital, Phnom Penh; the scenic lakes and rivers flowing through some of Asia's least-developed countryside; and encounters with the modern-day Khmer themselves.
Cambodia is still weighed down by its dark history – years of foreign invasions, the mass US bombings during the Vietnam War, the infamous genocide of 1.7 million people perpetrated by Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s, and the ensuing civil war that raged until less than a decade ago. In recent years, landmines have been removed, roads opened up, and the country's reputation as a sex-and-drug-trade center has started to wane. The combination has brought tourists trickling back in, most of whom head straight to the Angkor. While you could do the same, we recommend starting with a day of sight-seeing in Phnom Penh, followed by a minimum of three days in Angkor, to get a full sense of the country's layered history.
PHNOM PENH
You'll instantly love or hate Phnom Penh: Some are charmed by its mix of Indochinese exotica and French colonial remnants, while others can't see past its faded buildings and gritty ambiance. No matter which side you fall on, there's no denying that Cambodia's burgeoning capital has a unique cosmopolitan vibe unlike any other in South East Asia. It's also a vital counterpoint to the majesty of Angkor – it is here that you'll encounter the morbid vestiges of the Khmer Rouge regime at the Killing Fields and S-21; reminders of the French era, in decaying colonial villas; and the longevity of the Khmer way of life, from stunning temples to atmospheric markets. Plus, as the city sits at the confluence of three rivers – the Mekong, Tonle Sap and Basaac – you'll find a buzzing waterfront lined with ex-pat-friendly cafés and restaurants. It's certainly worthy of a day-long visit before moving on to Siem Reap; book a morning flight from Vientiane to maximize your time here.
The two sights not to miss definitely qualify as Phnom Penh's most gruesome – and most powerful. The first is Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, aka S-21 (between streets 350 and 113; daily 8am–12pm, 1-5pm $3), the former high school that became the primary detention and torture center for up to 20,000 Khmer Rouge prisoners in the 1970s; only 12 of them are known to have survived. It's a highly disturbing testament to the cruelty of Pol Pot's regime: You'll see the place as it was found, complete with torture instruments and blood-stained walls in some of the tiny cells; an emotive display of black-and-white photos of victims follow, as does an exhibit of personal stories by detainees and perpetrators. To see where the S-21 prisoners met their chilling deaths, head next to the Killing Fields/Choeung Ek Memorial (daily 7am–5pm; $2), a mass grave just over nine miles southwest of the city dotted by burial mounds; the poignant Choeung Ek Memorial in the center of it all is a plexiglass-sided stupa filled with 5000-plus skulls, excavated from the site, and grouped by age and sex. It's quite moving.
But not all is gory in Cambodia's capital. In the city center, don't miss the ornate gilded halls and vibrantly colored roofs of the Royal Palace complex (Sothearos Blvd, between streets 184 & 240; entrance from the river on the east side; daily 7.30am–11am and 2.30–5pm; $3, $5 with camera, $8 with video camera), a brilliant example of Khmer architecture; the grandiose Throne Hall is the main draw here, with its two elaborate thrones, dramatic ceiling frescos, and regal busts of various kings. To the south is the ostentatious Silver Pagoda (same hours and price), famed for its 5329 silver floor tiles and Buddha statues, including a golden, life-size version encrusted with almost 10,000 diamonds and an "emerald" made entirely of Baccarat crystal.
The city is also famous for its first-rate markets, so don't leave without visiting at least one. Our favorite is the Central Market (between streets 126 and 136; daily: dawn-dusk), found inside a circular Art Deco building and jam-packed with watches, T-shirts, silver, flowers, stationery, textiles – you name it, they'll likely have a variation of it here. For antiques, precious metals, wood carvings, and the like, trawl the Russian Market instead (between streets 440 and 450; daily: dawn-dusk) in the south end of town.
ANGKOR & SIEM REAP
The onetime capital of the powerful Khmer Empire, the breathtaking Angkor complex is easily one of the world's finest man-made wonders, ranking alongside the Pyramids, Machu Picchu, Taj Mahal, and other equally astonishing human creations. Built between the 9th and 13th centuries, the site was, in its heyday, the equivalent of a modern-day metropolis, housing some one million inhabitants at its peak. Abandoned in 1432, this fantastic collection of temples and palaces was left to be reclaimed by the jungle until French botanist Henri Mouhot discovered it in 1860. Since then, explorers, archeologists, architecture buffs, and photo-snapping tourists have been making pilgrimages to this stupendous sight.
Siem Reap, a sleepy provincial town four miles from Angkor, is the gateway to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. If time is of the essence, you can catch an early-morning 45-minute flight from Phnom Penh; those with more time, and a sense of adventure, should take the scenic approach, and arrive by five-hour boat ride along the Tonle Sap River ($25–$35). Mind you, you'll have no choice but to fly or take ground transporation in dry season (Feb–May), as low water levels can ground boats altogether.
The dozens of temples that comprise Angkor spread over some 38 square miles of lush jungle and are accessible by tuk-tuk ($8-$12 per day), moto-taxi ($6–$8 per day), or bicycle ($3–$8 per day). Tickets ($20 for a one-day pass; $40 for three days) require a passport-size photo and can be purchased at the main entrance; remember to hold onto yours if you've bought a multi-day pass. While you can explore the site alone, we do recommend hiring a guide for at least a day ($20–$25; arranged through your hotel), as the area is vast, with much that you're unlikely to discover by yourself.
It could literally take weeks to see everything here, but the main heavyweights can be definitely explored on a three-day itinerary. The most fabled of all is Angkor Wat, the zenith of Khmer architecture, a three-leveled sandstone pyramid, 213 feet from base to tip. The sight leaves no visitor unstirred – and we urge you to climb the near-vertical stone stairway to the third level for incredible panoramic views of the complex below. The interior is just as mind blowing: Highlights include intricate bas-reliefs of Hindu tales and historical vignettes; over 1000 elaborate carvings of apsaras (celestial dancers); and the first-level "hall of echoes." Whatever you do, don't miss the sun rising or setting over Angkor; although you'll have to share the experience with hordes of other tourists, seeing the towers beautifully silhouetted against the vibrantly colored sky is a sight you won't soon forget.
The second-most visited temple is Angkor Thom, an immense royal city with the state-temple of Bayon as its centerpiece. Giant stone faces of gods and demons line the walkways to each gate – they're so expressive it almost feels like you're being watched! Splendid carvings of giant elephants at the Terrace of the Elephants are also worth a detour, as are the stone engravings of Hindu mythological figures that grace the adjoining Terrace of the Leper King, possibly a crematorium. If you've always dreamed of riding an elephant, here's your chance – for just $10, you can hop on one at the south gate.
Our favorite of the temples is Ta Prohm, an enchanting place originally constructed as a Buddhist monastery. Of the lot, it's the only one to have been left in its original, rediscovered, condition – overgrown by jungle, with giant fig, banyan and silk-cotton trees grow out of its derelict ruins. We recommend visiting in late afternoon, when it's rendered particularly atmospheric by slanting shadows; it's worth devoting an hour to wandering its labyrinth of meditation chambers, passageways, and plazas. Plus, if you give one of the local kids who hang out here a dollar, they'll even show you the "secret" spot where Lara Croft: Tomb Raider was filmed.
Siem Reap itself offers a couple of non-temple-related cultural outings: For a dose of traditional Khmer culture, check out an apsara show, an elaborate, ancient dance once performed for the king; non-royals experience today it at the Angkor Village Hotel ($22, set Camodian dinner). A good alternative, and one that gives back to the community, is the weekly live cello performance by Swiss doctor Beat Richner, in the Jayavarman VII Hospital (Fri & Sat 7.15pm; free; donations welcome); proceeds raise money for his children's hospitals.
See Laos Travel Guide | See Vietnam Travel Guide | See Hanoi Travel GuideSee Angkor Travel Guide
