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Monuments to ancient gods abound in Southeast Asia
Things to do in Laos
What it lacks in tourist infrastructure and obvious attractions, spiritual Laos, immediately east of Vietnam, more than makes up with natural beauty, leisurely pace, and vibrant Buddhist culture. Until recently, this ancient mountainous country was one of the last Asian frontiers, only opening to tourism in the mid-1990s; since then, many visitors to the region have named Laos their favorite, touting it as the "most innocent" of the triad that compose the Golden Triangle. Reviews like this have propelled it to the top tier of South East Asian itineraries; even so, it remains one of the least-populated Asian countries and one of the world's poorest nations. But despite their hardships, friendly Lao (as the locals are known) always have a ready smile and a chirpy sa bai dee (hello) for visitors – an attitude that's itself a large part of the Laos appeal.
Even basic travel remains a thrilling adventure here, as dirt roads and rustic buses, rather than interstates and Mercedes, are the norm. Our suggested two-city tour covers the laid-back capital of Vientiane and the otherworldly mountain town of Luang Prabang, but, if you have more time, you can delve into the country's intricate social fabric by trekking through ethnic villages; kayaking or caving in the sleepy eco-adventure haven of Vang Vieng; and visiting the mysterious Plain of Jars, an archeological site scattered with a curious collection of stone jars attributed to a long-gone Iron Age civilization.
VIENTIANE
Upon arrival in Vientiane, Laos' unassuming riverside capital just an hour by plane from Hanoi, you might well think you've landed in a provincial backwater of unpaved roads, sagging wooden buildings, and a pace so languid it's near nonexistent. While tourist attractions are thin on the ground here – causing many visitors to skip it entirely in favor of Luang Prabang (see below) – we recommend sticking around for at least a day to discover its handful of monuments, temples, and French colonial mansions, and get accustomed to the slow tempo the country is known for. What's more, you can also indulge in a traditional herbal massage and cap off your visit with a sunset drink by the Mekong.
The obvious starting point is a climb to the top of the grand Patuxai, whose literal meaning is Victory Mnument (north end of Lane Xang Avenue; daily 8am–4pm; 20¢), an Arc de Triomphe-inspired structure dedicated to those who fought in the war of independence with France; it's the best vantage point for admiring the cityscape, especially so Laos' national symbol, the venerated Phra That Luang (That Luang Rd.; daily 8am–noon & 1–4pm; 50¢), just a short walk north, a religious site noted for its 144-foot golden spire and gilded cloister featuring a host of Buddha images. Buddha aficionados should continue to a third sight, the splendid Wat Sisaket (corner of Setthatirat Ave and Lane Xang Ave), and try to pick out all 10,136 depictions of him in the city's oldest standing Buddhist monastery. A final worthy attraction is the instructive Lao Revolutionary Museum (Samsenthai Rd.; daily 8am–noon & 1–4pm; 50¢), housed in a French colonial mansion; photos, artifacts, and paintings here detail how the Lao fought for independence from France and the United States.
As the day ends, recuperate with an herbal steambath and a traditional Lao massage at the excellent Papaya Spa (Ban Sithan Neua; daily 9am–9pm; www.papayaspa.com; $2–$14) right on the river. For a more unique experience, catch a tuk-tuk to Wat Sok Pa Luang (daily: dawn–dusk; $2 donations) in the southern suburbs, where both treatments are offered under a thatched roof in a lush garden setting. Once you've rejuvenated, sit down for a sunset drink at one of the Mekong-facing restaurants, such as the popular Le Côte D'Azur (reviewed in our Where to Eat section).
LUANG PRABANG
The former capital of Laos, and the birthplace of its most prominent rulers, the northern former royal mountain town of Luang Prabang remains the country's most important and most captivating city. It's regal, mysterious, and deeply imbued with the Buddhist tradition – so much so that daybreak brings the ritualistic sound of bells and the sight of barefoot, orange-robe-clad monks collecting alms, from sticky rice to caged birds, left by devout locals. Even if you're not a morning person, definitely make a point of rising at the crack of dawn to witness this spectacle – it's sure to make a lasting impression.
The town of Luang Prabang itself is also sublime. Located on a lush peninsula between Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, it's a compact place of red-roofed temples, picturesque alleyways, a palm-lined riverside, elegant French mansions, age-old merchant houses, and fine textile markets. The lot is so picturesque and culturally significant that it's protected today by a UNESCO World Heritage designation. A day is enough time to take in the must-see landmarks, but the town's enthralling ambience really calls for a two-day stay to fully appreciate. If you're on a strict schedule, you can arrive here in an under-45-minute flight from Vientiane; if you have some flexibility, we strongly recommend taking the bus – yes, it's a long (7+ hours) and hair-raising journey along bumpy mountain roads, but it's also the best way to take in the breathtaking Lao countryside, from mountain plateaus to mountain towns, which you'll miss on the much speedier, and airborne, flight.
With over 30 wats (the Lao word for temple) scattered around town, you'd be hard-pressed to see them all in one visit. There are, however, two that are absolute must-sees: the spectacular temple complex of Wat Xieng Thong (end of Xieng Thong Rd.; daily 8am–dusk; $1), with its stunning curved roof, 16th-century temple, interior gold-stenciled Buddha motifs, and, as its centerpiece, a reclining Buddha bronze sculpture that even made an appearance at the 1931 Paris World Fair. Also not to miss is the dazzling facade of the recently restored Wat Mai (Xiang Thong Rd.; daily dusk–dawn; free); the much-photographed gilded reliefs here depict vignettes of daily Lao life alongside depictions of one of the last Buddha reincarnations.
Next door to Wat Mai lies the fascinating Royal Palace Museum (Xiang Thong Rd.; Mon–Sat 8–11am & 1.30–4pm; $2), the seat of the 600-year-old Lao monarchy until 1975, when communists exiled the last king and his family to caves in the northern provinces. The star exhibit here is the incredibly ornate Prabang, the country's most sacred standing Buddha statue; its pedigree is somewhat controversial, however, as rumor has it that the original is somewhere in Moscow.
Make sure you catch the sunrise or sunset from Mount Phousi, the sacred hill whose summit is graced by the golden spires of That Chomsi. The easiest way to reach the summit is by the stairs opposite the Royal Palace (daily: dawn–dusk; $1); to avoid the heat, tackle the 30-minute climb at dawn or dusk. Also don't forget to pick up a bag of sticky rice for the monks; you can get one for pennies from the congregation of old women waiting at the bottom of the hill.
Several other nearby attractions are also worth seeing. A scenic long-tail boat river cruise ($3–$30/person, arranged through your hotel or via an agency) will take you to the Pak Ou Caves (daily: dawn–dusk; $1), a surreal repository of hundreds of damaged Buddha images some 16 miles north of town (most organized tours include a stop at the Whiskey Village, a largely touristy affair where you can sample the fermented sticky rice brew made by local farmers). The gorgeous limestone Kouang Si waterfalls, some 20 miles southwest on town, remain a marvelous site, even after some stone collapsed in 2003; the fantastic boat ride that gets you there is equally memorable ($5/person plus a tuk-tuk ride for the last portion). Finally, you can also embark on increasingly popular day-long eco-tours ($20-$30/day; $79 for two days, including home stay), and kayak, raft, or trek your way into countryside minority villages. The most reputable agencies are Green Discovery and Lao Travel Service (46 Sakrine Rd.; 856-(0)71-212 725); prices start around $13 (for a day of caving and trekking in Vang Vieng) and can top $1500 (for a guided 7-day cruise-and-trekking tour into the hinterlands).
Also set a couple of hours aside to shop. Luang Prabang is by far the best place in Laos to pick up quality silver and top-notch hand-woven local textiles. For these and other handicrafts, head to the Night Market (Sisavangvong Rd., near Wat Mai; daily: dusk–10.30pm); or check out the two branches of the high-end OckPopTok boutique (73/1 Ban Xieng Mouane & 73/5 Ban Vat Nong), for beautifully hand-woven scarves, skirts, ties and fabrics.
See Laos Travel Guide | See Vietnam Travel Guide | See Hanoi Travel GuideSee Angkor Travel Guide
