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Monuments to ancient gods abound in Southeast Asia
Things to Do in Vietnam
Vietnam only recently emerged from its war-heavy past but has quickly shot up to the top of Southeast Asian itineraries. Its newfound popularity is hardly surprising; this ancient land is an unparalleled feast for the senses, boasting an incredible array of natural wonders and cultural sights; a vibrant 4000-year history; a melting pot of 83 million people, including 54 ethnic groups; and superbly flavorful cuisine – all in a country that's roughly the size of Italy. Vietnam's brash metropolises of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) reveal the pulse of a country in flux, with the age-old and the brand-new intertwining at every step. The countryside holds more laid-back attractions like floating markets along the Mekong Delta, historic river towns like Hoi An, and limestone isles in Halong Bay.
It could take weeks to explore the country's many faces, but our itinerary covers the main highlights in a week – with two days in the south, in hurried Ho Chi Minh City and a day trip along the Mekong Delta or into the Cu Chi Tunnels thrown in; two days in darling Hoi An in the central provinces; another two days spent in the country's wondrous northern capital of Hanoi; and a final day out cruising dazzling Halong Bay. Other treats await those with more time to spare, like the former imperial capital of Hué; the picture-perfect mountain resort of Dalat; the fashionable beach enclave of Nha Trang; and the atmospheric market town of Sapa.
HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON)
Besides being Vietnam's largest and most Westernized city, and one of two major points of entry (next to Hanoi), Ho Chi Minh City (still better known by its pre-1975 name, Saigon), is an excellent introduction to modern-day Vietnam. For many, it's a shocking first encounter with the country's astounding contrasts: Thousands of Hondas and old-fashioned cyclos congest the wide boulevards and narrow alleyways; chaotic markets with medicinal herb and noodle stalls sit next to designer boutiques and upscale gourmet restaurants; gilded pagodas stand alongside sparkling shopping malls and sky-scraping glass towers. Add in a clutch of interesting historical museums and two riveting nearby attractions – the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels – and you've got abundant reason to spend two days in the urban giant of Vietnam's south.
If you want to take in Saigon's major sights in one day, make sure you get an early start. We recommend starting off at the stirring War Remnants Museum (28 Vo Van Tan St., District 3; daily 7.30–11.30am & 1.30–5.15pm; 65¢), where you'll get the local perspective on the war known in Vietnam as the "American War." Themed exhibits are anything but surface: Expect devastating photos of the notorious My Lai massacre, among others, and warfare relics; as a somewhat comforting counterpoint, you'll also find a photographic display of global peace protests. You won't leave unaffected.
Another history lesson is to be had at the modernist Reunification Palace (106 Nguyen Du St.; daily 7.30–11am & 1–4pm; $1), a former presidential residence made famous when North Vietnamese tanks crashed through its gates for a victorious flag hanging in 1975 that effectively reunified the country. Inside, you can tour the tackily decorated rooms, including the president's private chambers; the highlight is the war command room in the basement, complete with an (outdated) communications center.
Take a break from the heavy-hitting history by visiting one of Saigon's many superb pagodas. Our favorite is the eye-catching Emperor Jade Pagoda (73 Mai Thi Luu St., District 3; daily: 8am–5pm; free), built in 1909 by the Cantonese community. Before entering its incense-fragrant interior, take a moment to admire its incredibly ornate tiled roof; inside is equally intricate, with elaborate woodcarvings and vivid sculptures.
To catch the everyday sights, sounds and smells of Saigon, don't miss the hugely evocative Ben Thanh Market (Roundabout of Le Loi and Tran Hung Dao, District 1), with its maze of narrow aisles packed with hundreds of stalls selling anything from household items to exotic fruits – look for the enchanting dragon fruit, endemic to Vietnam, with its brilliant pink skin – to clothing and live frogs. If time allows, do also spend a couple of hours wandering around Cholon district, the city's mesmerizing Chinatown, where street markets, colorful temples and traditional herb shops cram a cluster of tight-packed alleyways.
At the end of the day, get your dose of Western lifestyle by strolling down the tree-lined Dong Khoi Street, a French-style boulevard known as Rue Catinat under French rule and the setting of parts of Graham Greene's The Quiet American; today it boasts some of Vietnam's best gourmet restaurants, designer stores, and French bakeries, but war-aficionados will want to look for the Continental Hotel, favored by most journalists during the war, at number 132-134, and Graham Greene's old haunt, the sumptuously restored Hotel Majestic, at number 1 (also reviewed in Where to Stay).
ALONG THE MEKONG DELTA OR INTO THE CU CHI TUNNELS
Two compelling day trips will compete for your attention in this part of Vietnam and, if you're short on time, you'll have to choose just one: A trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels or a cruise along the Mekong Delta. Keep in mind that the latter is only possible from late-November to April (the dry season), as the river bed can become flooded and impassable. Our preferred local tour companies for both outings are: Delta Adventure Tours; Saigon Tourist; and SinhBalo Adventures.
Mekong Delta
Known as Vietnam's rice bowl, as approximately half of the country's rice is produced here, the Mekong Delta, southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, is more than a fertile rice paddy – it's a remarkable water-based region rife with amazing photo opportunities. Indeed, a visit to the deltas here will produce some of the most evocative photos of your entire trip. As you sail the Mekong's canals and waterways, you'll pass peasants with cone-shaped hats working the rice paddies, sugarcane fields, and fruit orchards; traditional thatched-roof huts; weather-beaten longboats; enchanting villages; and picturesque floating markets. Most Mekong cruises run from 8am–5pm and require a full-day commitment. Prices range from $10–$45, depending on the tour you choose; for the best photo-opportunities, opt for the trips that visit the markets of Cai Be (outside the town of Vinh Long) and Cai Rang (in the region's largest city, Can Tho).
Cu Chi Tunnels
The best rainy-day (or wet-season) alternative is a half-day trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels (daily dawn–dusk; $4, or $10–$35 for a half-day tour; see above agencies), a vast network of underground tunnels used by the Viet Cong during the American War. Located some 45 miles from Saigon – and stretching all the way to Cambodia – this humongous labyrinth, at its peak, housed an entire subterranean world of living quarters, command centers, kitchens, hospitals, and weapons-storage rooms. These days, visitors can crouch along several low-level sections and visit a small history museum showcasing photos and war relics. There's even a shooting range where you can fulfill your secret commando fantasy to fire an actual AK-47.
HOI AN
After the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, the languor of the riverside town of Hoi An, in the country's central provinces, will come as a pleasant respite. Just an hour north of Saigon by air, this beautiful 15th-century hamlet of restored Japanese and Chinese merchant houses and temples was awarded a UNESCO World Heritage designation in 1999; the designation will ensure that it remains one of the country's most picturesque towns.
A day alone would give you enough time to tour Hoi An's major sights, but we recommend lingering for two days to soak up the Old World ambience and sample some of its unique pleasures: stellar restaurants dish out delectable local specialties (including cao lau, rice noodles with pork slices and bean sprouts, and traditionally cooked with water from the local well); a bevy of antique stores and galleries beckon; and renowned tailors can whip up an entire wardrobe in fine silks and fabrics, in 24 hours, for a fraction of retail prices. Plus, you can squeeze in a little beach time – just two miles east of town is the white-sand Cua Dai beach, easily reached by bike (on rent from just about any hotel in town). You can also plan an excursion to the magnificent My Son temple.
To see the town's landmarks, you must purchase an entrance ticket to the sites through the Hoi An World Heritage Organization ($5; available from six outlets in the old town, including 1 Nguyen Truong To and 12 Phan Chu Trinh St.). Do so as soon as you arrive and start by visiting the instructive Museum of Trade Ceramics (80 Tran Phu St.; daily 8am–5pm) where an assortment of Japanese, Thai, and Arabic ceramic objects from the 8th to 17th centuries explains Hoi An's pivotal role as a former maritime hub. The next high point is Phuoc Kien (Fujian) Assembly Hall (46 Tran Phu St.; daily 7am–6pm), an alluring showpiece of Chinese architecture built in 1697 as the place of worship for Thien Hau goddess; its various chambers shelter figurines of various deities and elaborate murals – there's even a dainty miniature replica of a Chinese boat. Also of interest are the huge gilded statues inside the 17th-century Quan Cong's Temple (168 Tran Phu St., on the corner of Nguyen Hue; daily 8am–5pm), dedicated to the famous Chinese general.
Also not to miss is the town's most iconic sight, the wooden, red-painted Japanese Covered Bridge (at the west end of Tran Phu St.) built in the early 1600s by the Japanese community and guarded on each side by four statues – two monkeys and two dogs. You can say a prayer for sunny days at the small onsite temple dedicated to a Taoist god of weather – although it won't do any good if you're visiting in rainy season. As a last stop, visit our favorite of Hoi An's ancient merchant houses: the beautifully preserved Tan Ky House (101 Nguyen Thai Hoc St.; daily 8am–5pm), a 200-year-old dwelling that's been in the Tan family for, depending on who you speak to, between five and seven generations; its interiors are loaded with antiques and an unusual cross-cultural blend of architectural elements, like a Japanese peaked roof and columns inscribed in Chinese.
By the late afternoon of your first day, you should have sampled Hoi An's historic charms, and then: it's shopping time! Make sure you dedicate at least a couple of hours to browsing through the many tailor shops dotted around the old town with its constant buzz of sewing machines. Most of the tailors here can drum up your dream outfit in a matter of hours, be it a silk suit ($20–$35), cotton trousers ($5-$10), or a summer dress ($8-$10). For one-stop shopping, we recommend upscale Yaly Couture (47 Nguyen Thai Hoc; 84-(0)510-910 474) for its broad selection of quality fabrics and sample models. Otherwise, shop around, haggle, have fun, and don't leave empty-handed!
Three other worthwhile attractions will easily occupy a second day in Hoi An: the vibrant Central Market on the southeast side of town by Thu Bon River, where stalls overflow with tangerines, silk products, exotic spices and medicinal herbs; sunning on Cua Dai beach; and an excursion to the glorious UNESCO-protected temple complex of My Son (daily 6.30am–5pm; $3.35), an important religious center of the powerful Hindu Kingdom of Champa between the 4th and 13th centuries. Located just 25 miles southwest of Hoi An, the site is easily accessible by minibus ($2 per person), car ($20 round-trip), or on a guided tour (arranged through your hotel for $30–$35). When you return to town, don't forget to pick up your order from the tailor!
HANOI
The final stop on your Vietnam tour may indeed be its most striking – the elegant capital of Hanoi. A mere hour-long flight from Hoi An, this romantic city of 3.5 million is the crown jewel of northern Vietnam. Smaller and slower than Saigon, the "Paris of Asia" is an instant charmer – lakes and pagodas dot its mesmerizing streetscapes, gorgeous French colonial villas line its classy tree-shaded boulevards, and its Old Quarter vibrates with a flurry of ancient trades. Throw in its burgeoning art scene, a host of notable museums and splendid restaurants, plus some of Vietnam's most notable cultural performances – and you're in for a real treat.
You'll have to head out immediately after dropping your bags at your hotel to take in all of Hanoi's highlights during your limited time here. Make a beeline for the distinctive Old Quarter, the city's most atmospheric neighborhood, and spend some time wandering the traffic-jammed warren of twisting streets that make up the neighborhood. Each street bears the name of the age-old trade that's still practiced in the well-worn shops that maintain addresses on each one – you'll find a silk street, an antique street, a shoe street . . . The area is at its most buzzing at dinner time, when sidewalk street kitchens invite people to sit down for a chat over a bowl of pho – a traditional Vietnamese noodle soup. A word of warning: while the soup may look appetizing, the city's street-level food isn't usually recommended for Western stomachs (see our recommended restaurants, below).
You must, of course, pay your respects to Uncle Ho at the Ho Chi Minh Museum (3 Ngo Ha, Ba Dinh District; Tues–Sun 8-11.30am & 1.30–4pm; 65¢), an homage to Vietnam's founding father. The medley of photos, documents, and sculptures here does its best to glorify the Communist cause but comes off as an exercise in the bizarre – nowhere more so than at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum next door (Tues–Thurs & Sat 8–11am; closed Oct–Nov; no shorts or sleeveless shirts allowed), a monumental and granite concrete structure where Ho's embalmed body is publicly displayed under psychedelic lights in a chilly room; guards will usher you along if you spend too much time ogling the man (you can't see him at all between October and November, as his corpse is sent to Russia for maintenance). For a prayer to good health after your visit, head to the wooden One Pillar Pagoda, to the right of the Ho Chi Minh Museum and Mausoleum (8am–5pm), reminiscent of a lotus flower jutting out of a lake; according to legend, a Ly dynasty king had it built in 1049 to honor Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, the goddess of mercy, for giving him a male heir. The one you'll see today is in fact a reconstruction – the French destroyed the original.
Of course, Vietnam war buffs will also want to pay tribute to the grim Hoa Lo Prison (1 Hoa Lo St.; Tues–Sun 8.30–11.30am & 1.30–4.30pm; 65¢), more familiarly known as Hanoi Hilton. Built in 1896 by the French and used as the detention center of American POWs during the war, you'll be able to tour restored prison cells and view torture instruments, grisly photos, and even a French guillotine.
Round out your visit by experiencing the spiritual and cultural sides of Hanoi. If you see only one temple in Vietnam, make it the venerated Temple of Literature (Guoc Tu Giam St.; daily 8am–5pm; 33¢), originally designed in 1070 as a Confucian sanctuary (it later incorporated the country's National University, which was heavily damaged during the French War). The main interests are its exemplary architecture – a mastery of Chinese style with Vietnamese touches – and serene courtyards. Look for the stone markers that bear the names of past laureates; they're graduates from the classes of 1484 to 1780.
Culture buffs also shouldn't miss a water-puppet performance, an ancient Vietnamese artform involving handmade wooden marionettes "performing" on a reflecting pool; the best showcase is the Thang Long Water Puppets Theater (www.thankglongwaterpuppet.org; 57B Dinh Tien Hoang St.; $1.35–$2.65, extra fee for camera and video use; several shows daily). More contemporary fare is often scheduled at the splendid Art Nouveau Hanoi Opera House (1 Trang Tien St.).
HALONG BAY
After two days in Hanoi's captivating streetscapes, another treat awaits in a four-hour boat cruise through the 3000 limestone islets – all but one of them uninhabited – of Halong Bay, an enchanting section of the famed Gulf of Tonkin. Undoubtedly Vietnam's most mesmerizing natural sight, this UNESCO-protected area is dotted with grottoes and often shrouded in mist, which only adds to its mystique. Translated, Ha Long means "where the dragon descends into the sea" and, once you're afloat on its emerald-green waters, you'll easily understand why the bay is believed to have been formed by the thrashing of a dragon's tail.
Day trips leave Hanoi at the crack of dawn to make the three-and-a-half-hour drive to the bay, on the easternmost coast of Vietnam, where you'll board a boat for a four-hour cruise. Handspan ($87) runs the best day cruises, which include a guided visit to an expansive illuminated grotto and time for a quick swim before you return to the city. If you can add a day to your trip, we strongly recommend booking an overnight cruise to experience the bay's phenomenal sunset and sunrise and also more of its splendid landscapes. Our favorite agencies for two-day cruises are Emeraude Classic Cruises and Buffalo Tours ($150–$290).
See Laos Travel Guide | See Vietnam Travel Guide | See Hanoi Travel GuideSee Angkor Travel Guide
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