• Introduction
• Things to Do in Rio de Janeiro
• Things to Do in Buenos Aires
• Iguazu Falls
• Rio de Janeiro Hotels
• Buenos Aires Hotels
• Iguazu Falls Hotels and Restaurants
• Rio de Janeiro Restaurants
• Buenos Aires Restaurants
• Rio de Janeiro Nightlife
• Buenos Aires Nightlife
• Getting There
• Visa Requirements
• What Not to Miss

Things to Do in Buenos Aires

By turns refined and subdued, the Argentinean capital of Buenos Aires, three hours by plane from Rio, is the urban antithesis to Rio's beach culture. Its proud and stylish locals, known as porteños, are often disdained by other South Americans for being aloof, but they are also the continent's most chic (and sometimes supercilious) citizens. There's no denying the flair that puts them at the forefront of the continent's architecture, food, wine, culture, and fashion scenes.

The city itself is massive, with a bustling population of 12.5 million and a dense textured skyline. Its 60-plus neighborhoods feature Belle Epoque and colonial architecture and hug the arc of the Rio de la Plata where the flatlands of Argentina's extensive pampas begin. It's no secret that the city longs for a bygone era when it was Latin America's most prosperous hub, but while it recovers from the economic collapse of 2001, it remains a modern and affordable luxury destination, where American dollars have substantially more buying power than they do in Europe. The city is rife with shopping bargains – including everything from Lacoste shirts to one-of-a-kind leather jackets.

The best way to experience the city is through its various neighborhoods. Our favorites include bustling Microcentro (downtown), old-world San Telmo, the pastel-colored former shantytown of La Boca, moneyed Recoleta, and the biggest of them all, leafy Palermo, which is broken into three very distinct divisions: Palermo, Palermo Viejo, and Palermo Chico. Multiple Palermo neighborhoods exist within these three quarters, each of which is worth getting to know. Exploring individual neighborhoods is best done on foot, but the city's glut of affordable taxis (average fares from $2 to $6) are an ideal way to span the bulky metropolis.

You'll definitely want to spend two of your five days discovering Palermo's patchwork of parks, museums, and plazas. The elegant Museo Evita (Lafinur 2988; Tue-Sun 2pm-7.30pm; 011-54-11-4807-0306; $5; www.museoevita.org) offers a look at the controversial icon's life during Argentina 's tumultuous mid-century period while the Parque Tres de Febrero provides a leafy respite from the busy shop-lined-plazas – look for the Jacaranda trees, which explode with purple blooms from November to January. Fashionistas head to Palermo Hollywood (www.palermohollywood.net), where stylish boutiques sell everything from one-off cocktail dresses to hand-crafted leather goods. Our favorite shop, Felix (Calle Gurruchaga 1670; 011-54-11-4832-2994; www.felixba.com.ar), is located on a boutique-lined street and sells sneakers, jeans and retro T-shirts. On weekends, the Feria Plaza Serrano (intersection of Calle Serrano and Honduras; every Sat & Sun) fills with young crafters and designers selling their wares – browse for clothes, leather, and jewelry.

The remaining three days are best spent checking out the other four neighborhoods. Visitors should allow time to explore Microcentro, where the modern pedestrian shopping mecca of Avenida Florida boasts the city's largest concentration of shopping choices and leather bargains. Nearby Casa Rosada (between the Plaza de Mayo and Parque Colon), the presidential palace on Plaza de Mayo where Eva Perón gave her famous balcony speeches, still attracts throngs of tourists who marvel at its pink sunset glow. But a trip back in time to San Telmo's cobblestone charm recalls the city's past in tattered mansions that once served as tenements. Time your visit for a Sunday to browse jewelry, art, and incredible antiques as part of the popular weekly Feria de San Telmo, or San Telmo Flea Market, that takes over the picturesque Plaza Dorrego. Exclusive Recoleta sits nearby and is home to the Cementerio de la Recoleta (Recoleta; daily 7am-6pm; free), where the city's elite – everyone from military heroes to Evita – rest in coffins, visible through the windows of antique crypts. The Argentines have a saying, "It's cheaper to live extravagantly all your life than to be buried in Recoleta." The grandeur of the marble sarcophagi proves that even in death, porteños exhibit style.