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Amsterdam

Hotels

Amsterdam's city center is chock full of accommodations, ranging from the posh Grand Hotel (Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197; 020/555-3111; www.thegrand.nl) to the cheap-as-chips student haven, the Flying Pig hostel (Nieuwendijk 100; 020/420-6822; www.flyingpig.nl). If you're only staying for a few days, the convenient downtown location may pay off, but if time is on your side and you want a more authentic experience, head for the Western Canal Ring or Museum Quarter – because of the city's small size, you won't be far from the action. Most hotels have taken over 17th-century buildings, and renovations aside, this means most hotels rooms are on the small side. Many buildings are historical, meaning most can't install elevators even if they wanted to, so be ready to climb tight, winding staircases. Only the top hotels have air conditioning, but unless you hit one of the rare summer heat waves, that shouldn't be a problem. You'll find that most hotels are prepared with loaner umbrellas and bikes – a cultural comment, because in lieu of size, hotels have focused on what makes them unique: chic design, rare antiques, all-inclusiveness, or entertainment. We've outlined our favorites in the luxury, moderate, and budget categories.

Amsterdam is not known for being fancy, or necessarily for its service, but these luxury hotels buck those trends. The chic College Hotel (Roelof Hartstraat 1; 020/571-1511; www.collegehotelamsterdam.com), a five-minute walk from the Van Gogh museum, is recognized as one of the best-designed hotels in Europe and is staffed by meticulous management. Hotel Seven One Seven (Prinsengracht 717; 020/427-0717; www.717hotel.nl), on the other hand, is just a few canal blocks from the busiest square in Amsterdam, but you'd never know the quiet house was actually a hotel, given the only thing denoting its status is an elegant gold plaque marking the door; inside, expect an old-English country home offering afternoon tea amidst worldly antiques and artworks. Near to Rembrandtsplein, the all-inclusive Banks Mansion (Herengracht 519-525; 020/420-0055; www.banksmansion.nl) is a dream with a complimentary in-room minibar (liquor included) and an open bar (appetizers included) in the Art Deco lounge; breakfast, also gratis, features eggs or French toast cooked to your specifications.

Some of the more moderate hotels offer the best values in the city. The Hotel New Amsterdam (Herengracht 13-19; 020/522-2345; www.hotelnewamsterdam.nl) sits off one of the city's prettiest canals and offers immaculate rooms and a gracious staff. Attend the afternoon "infohour" to get city recommendations and advice. Hotel Estheréa (Singel 303–309; 020/624-5146; www.estherea.nl) has a grandeur not often found in family-run establishments – the antique-style décor creates warm, boutique-y rooms you won't want to leave. Seven Bridges Hotel (Reguliersgracht 31; 020/623-1329; www.sevenbridgeshotel.nl) is one of Ansterdam's most atmospheric hotels – the front windows overlook a row of seven bridges crossing the Reguliersgracht, while inside, proprietors Pierre Keulers and Gunter Glaner make guests feel at home amongst their treasure trove of auction house pieces.

For tight budgets, there are a few no-frills hotels with good service. The hip Hotel Arena ('s-Gravesandestraat 51; 020/850-2400; www.hotelarena.nl) serves as hotel, café, restaurant, and nightclub with an ultra-chic minimalist décor. Singel Hotel (Singel 13-17; 020/626-3108; www.singelhotel.nl) on the Western Canal Ring is small due to its 17th-century house setting, but its location and friendly staff make up for it; expect modern rooms and run-of-the-mill hotel style. Nearby, the Hotel Brouwer (Singel 83; 020/624-6358; www.hotelbrouwer.nl) offers simple décor, Delft tiles, hardwood floors, and early 20th-century furniture along with scenic Singel Canal views from each room.

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