Restaurants
Though many struggle to find high-quality food in the Caribbean, dining out in Aruba is a delight; the only trouble is narrowing down your options. Since most ingredients are imported (beef is flown in from Argentina; vegetables from Venezuela and the US) tabs tend to run on the expensive side, but portions usually run large and meals are most always satisfying. Reservations are recommended at most restaurants, especially during the busy winter months. Most are located in Oranjestad and in or near the hotel zones along Palm and Eagle beaches, but a few off-the-path gems are scattered around the island.
On the high end, you can't beat Le Dôme (J.E. Irausquin Blvd. 224; 297/587-1517; www.ledome-aruba.com) for Belgian/French cuisine; start off with some foie gras or scallops au gratin then indulge in rock lobster tails, beef tenderloin, or pan-fried ostrich fillets (the Netherlands' Queen Beatrix herself favors one of the restaurant's signature shrimp dishes, Scampi Le Dome – shrimp in a spicy cream sauce). Another French-fusion bistro tops our list: Chez Mathilde (Havenstraat 23; closed for lunch on Sundays; 297/583-4968; www.chezmatilde.com) offers topnotch cuisine in an elegant setting with a Belle Epoque glass ceiling; delicious menu choices include escargot, salmon terrine, oven-roasted grouper with avocado salsa, and prime rib-eye steak with garlic tomato chutney and roasted scallions. For some local flavor (literally) check out Papiamento (Washington 61; dinner only, closed Sunday; 297/586-4544), which serves up award-winning Caribbean cuisine (try the Keshi Yena, an Aruban chicken-and-beef baked specialty with Gouda, onions, raisins, and cashews) from a 200-year-old converted farmhouse; candle-lit tables surround the pool and romantic courtyard, while indoor tables are surrounded by antiques and family bric-a-brac.
Moderate prices and delightful fare are found at Driftwood (Klipstraat 12; Wed-Mon 5:30-11pm; 297/583-2515; www.driftwoodaruba.com), an authentic Aruba seafood joint in a cozy rustic setting; the menu changes nightly depending on what the owner catches that day, but the lobster crepe (if available) is one decadent delight not to miss. Hostaria da' Vittorio (L.G. Smith Blvd. 380; 297/586-3838) serves up tasty Italian treats like baked artichokes, pizza, osso bucco, and gnocchi with tomatoes and mozzarella. Amazônia (J.E. Irasquin Blvd. 374; dinner only; 297/586-4444) is the spot for carnivores; its prime selections of Argentine beef, chicken, and lamb are served in a handsome venue with a wraparound porch lit by two massive torches. Next door to the California Lighthouse, in what used to be the lighthouse-keeper's home, is a fine Italian restaurant, La Tratorria El Faro Blanco (297/586-0786; www.aruba-latrattoria.com), offering an enchanting setting for watching the sunset while enjoying carpaccio, calamari, and the like.
Cheap eats can be had at Cuba's Cookin' (Wilhelminastraat 27; 297/588-0627; closed Sun; www.cubascookin.com) where fun Latin beats, sweet mojitos, and traditional Cuban specialties like lightly grilled seafood combos and shredded beef sautéed in tomatoes give diners a taste of Cuba – lighting up a cigar after your meal is optional. For a genuine Aruba experience, head to Nos Cunucu (Tanki Leendert 145K; closed Sun; 297/582-7122), a homey joint located in a traditional farmstead complete with live chickens in the courtyard; the food is straight-up down-home cooking with items like cheese pastechis (deep-fried polenta), Aruban fish soup, grilled fish, and beef curry on the menu.
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