Spotlight

Aspen

Hotels

As a byword for glitz, glamour and glorious skiing, Aspen lodging doesn't come cheap. (Even mobile homes in the Smuggler Trailer Park or six-week luxury “fractional” shares sell for more than $1 million!). You'll find an array of lodging options for nearly every high-end pocketbook, especially those catering to the AmEx Black Card crowd; choose from a historic grande dame, luxurious slopeside ski & spa resorts, charming B&Bs, condos, and even stylish boutique properties. Moderate options do abound (especially in Snowmass or at smaller, older, homey inns), though acceptable central budget accommodations are few and tend to be booked well in advance. To help you choose the right overnight address convenient to most attractions and slopes, we've outlined our central Aspen favorites in each category.

For the ultimate luxury, we recommend three slopeside properties and one Victorian classic. The posh, pampering 92-unit Relais & Châteaux Little Nell Hotel (675 E. Durant Ave.; 970/920-4600) right at the base of Aspen Mountain's gondola, is arguably the best people-watching spot in a town. We absolutely adore the Montagna restaurant, which enjoys the services of Richard Betts, one of the best (master) sommeliers in the biz. The larger but still luxurious St. Regis (315 E. Dean St.; 970-920-3300) recently underwent a major redesign; the sybaritic new Remède Spa (featuring a cool, contemporary igloo-inspired look, waterfalls cascading over lounges and complimentary oxygen treatments) contrasts sleekly and chicly with the other public spaces' grand Ralph Lauren-meets-nostalgic-hunting-lodge decor. The Kimpton Group also transformed a somewhat dowdy property into the gleaming, effortlessly hip, boutique Sky Hotel (709 E. Durant Ave.; 800/882-2582), a marvelous blend of mod furnishings (faux-fur blankets on snow-white beds in the sunflower-yellow rooms), groovy graphics and old ski lodge classics like huge rock fireplaces (think Prada meets Wrangler). Last but not least is the opulent 1889 Hotel Jerome (330 E. Main St.; 970/920-1000) a Victorian extravaganza that manages to be top-notch but not over-the-top.

For moderate options, we love most of the Gems of Aspen, a loose marketing group of classic lodges from B&Bs to chalets. At the higher end, Hotel Lenado (200 S. Aspen St., 970/925-6246) takes its name from an abandoned lumber mill town and fittingly, the striking interior design emphasizes various types and textures of wood, from spruce beams and cherry-wood twig couches in the lobby to four-poster hickory beds in the sumptuous rooms. Just a block from slopes and action, Little Red Ski Haus (118 E. Cooper Ave.; 866/630-6119 or 970/925-3333) also enchants with exquisite turn-of-the-century accommodations, many with whirlpool tubs; fantastic breakfasts (served in the lovingly restored Prospector's Cellar) are included. The more affordable (with some units also close to our budget range), but still quaint Snow Queen Lodge (124 E. Cooper Ave.; 970/925-8455) is next door; this cozy Victorian affair comes with six individually decorated units filled with period touches like quilts and fringe lamps.

Central budget accommodations are harder to find, but the St. Moritz Lodge (334 W. Hyman Ave.; 970/925-3220) offers warm Alpine ambience (from gingerbread trim to stone fireplace and wood-paneled walls), a lively international clientele, and cute commodious lodgings, many with fine Shadow Mountain views (bunk-style small-group dorms with shared bath also available); extras include free continental breakfast and high-speed Internet access. Mountain Chalet (333 E. Durant Ave.; 970/925-7797 or 800/321-7813) is a 50-year old lodge sitting right next to the St. Regis, just 1.5 blocks from the lifts, with several room categories; standard and economy options sport charming garage-sale décor, beamed ceilings and/or wood paneling, quilts, Western artworks, antique snowshoes, or old ski photos (standard rooms are a bit larger and add small fridge).

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