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Restaurants

For many, Aspen remains the definitive foodie resort – after all, one of the Western hemisphere's most hallowed gastronomic events is June's Aspen Food & Wine Magazine Classic. Small wonder Aspen lures talented toques from around the globe, and the upmarket hotels themselves boast amazing restaurants (Olives in the St. Regis, Montagna in the Little Nell, The Hotel Jerome's Century Room, Sage Bistro in Snowmass Club, Willow Creek in the Ritz-Carlton Club Highlands, to name a few). The downside is prices higher than the Rockies (the Aspen Mickey D's repeatedly ranks among the top three most expensive in the world, but perhaps the Big Mac uses caribou). Despite the haute (in every way) reputation, family-friendly meat-and-potatoes and pizza joints abound and such top tables as Gusto, Cache Cache, Matsuhisa, and L'Hostaria offer more affordable bar menus. Here's just a small taste of centrally located (and a couple of way-out-of-this-world) eateries.

On the expensive-but-worth-it end of the scale, Mogador (430 E. Hyman Ave., downstairs; 970/429-1072) is truly a feast for all the senses, with wondrous dishes inspired by western Mediterranean jaunts. The menu groups dishes by category – bounty (first courses); sea; land; composed cheeses; olive oils, and so on – and the results, served in wild posh-pasha-on-peyote digs, are magical: cumin-scented lamb shank with spinach Catalan; suckling pork confit with quince aïoli; and seared diver scallops with jamón serrano, Parmesan and lemon. Sushi is an art form at Matsuhisa (303 E. Main St., downstairs; 970/544-6628), named for the restaurant's founding über-chef, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa (better known to foodies as Nobu). Gorge on gorgeous broiled black cod with miso or Chilean Sea Bass topped with black truffles and black bean sauce, or, put yourself in chef's hands for the omakase menu (selection of what's freshest that day); if the stylishly stark, Starck-ish main room is packed, head for the intimate street-level lounge. Another fine choice is Syzygy (520 E. Hyman Ave.; 970/925-3700), its name derived from the astronomical phenomenon of three or more heavenly bodies in alignment, reflecting personable owner Walt Harris's desire to provide harmony of expressive cuisine, fine service, elegant atmosphere, and superb live jazz. He succeeds thanks to a sterling, unusually helpful waitstaff, romantic decor (featuring waterwalls), rising acts, and the assured, sublimely seasoned creations of chef Martin Oswald, whose dishes, like truffled mushroom ravioli with portobellas, shiitakes, chanterelles and a lemon zest/Riesling sauce, float from French to Asian to Southwestern influences without skipping a beat. Finally, one experience not to miss is a dogsled ride and gourmet lunch at the rustic-elegant Krabloonik Restaurant & Kennels (4250 Divide Rd., Snowmass Village; 970/923-3953/4342), a remote log cabin with some of Colorado's best game on the menu: try carpaccio of smoked moose with lingonberry vinaigrette; elk loin with marsala and sun-dried cherry glaze; or wild boar with morel cream sauce. Owner Dan MacEachen opened the restaurant and kennel in the early ‘70s to preserve and promote the dying art of dog sledding; today, some 300 sled dogs are kenneled just outside and are frequently sought after to race in the prestigious Iditarod. Half-day trips (2 hours) include a gourmet 4-course lunch; the restaurant supports the dogs' upkeep.

Our favorite mid-range choices include: Cache Cache (205 S. Mill St., garden level; 970/925-3835), where a handsome bi-coastal crowd savors the sun-drenched flavors of Provence (olive, basil, sage, tomato, garlic) in an equally sunny setting (cream-saffron walls studded with black-and-white photos of Paris street scenes); Chef Charles Dale's Nouvelle Western downhome Range (304 E. Hopkins Ave., 970/925-2402), which incorporates ultra-fresh, often-organic regional ingredients from artisan purveyors from Colorado to California – we adore dishes like the Colorado Corn Soup garnished with Dungeness crab and the trio of ceviches sampler singing with flavor and color; Blue Maize (308 S. Hunter St.; 970-925-6698) is Aspen at its casual best, with a happy décor (combining delectable shades of blueberry, tomato and, yes, maize; wood beams; exhibition open kitchen, and copper panels), potent margaritas, and inventive Southwestern fare (brie and mango quesadilla, coconut shrimp with watermelon puree); and Il Poggio Ristorante (57 Elbert Lane, Snowmass Village; 970/923-4292), a spirited local trattoria that's worth the trip from (gasp!) Aspen for the heavenly, homemade rosemary flatbreads and foccacie slathered with cambozola and roasted garlic. Pizzas (try the pollo affumicato) and antipasti are meals in themselves and the pastas and entrees are equally worthy: goat cheese-and-sweet potato ravioli in hazelnut cream sauce to duck breast with polenta in honey grappa sauce.

On the budget end of things, look for colorful snowboards and skis propped against the brick house and picket fence to find Main Street Bakery and Café (201 E. Main St.; 970/925-6446), which easily serves the best breakfast in town, complete with blueberry pancakes piled high as moguls and tofu scramble or overstuffed omelets that help propel you down the slopes in record time. And it's probably one of the best places to eavesdrop on local gossip. Families adore Little Annie's Eating House (517 E. Hyman Ave.; 970/925-1098), where everyone can get messy eating terrific barbecued ribs and chicken with their hands. There's a huge selection, with something for all tastes (but do get the smashing mashed potatoes). Locals love the relaxed ambience and reasonable prices. The Popcorn Wagon (305 S. Mill St.; 970/925-2718) is another local institution, this one serving yummy crepes, enormous hot dogs and sausages, and gourmet sandwiches by a fire-pit well into the night. You'll see a parade of locals and tourists grabbing a quick lunch, sopping up alcohol after the bar rounds, or just enjoying the occasional live music.

See Aspen Travel Guide