Spotlight

Barcelona

Attractions

Positioned between hills to the north and the Mediterranean Sea to the south lies Barcelona. Avinguda Diagonal divides the city into two areas: downtown, home to most attractions covered in this story, and Zona Alta, the upper town. At the heart of downtown is the old town, a maze of tight streets and charming squares bisected by La Rambla, a tree-shaded promenade flanked by Plaça de Catalunya and the harbor. To the east of La Rambla lies the medieval Barri Gòtic, and due southeast, the fashionable areas of La Ribera and El Born. To the west is El Raval, an up-and-coming-but-still-slightly-seedy neighborhood of immigrants and young bohemia. The waterfront starts where La Rambla ends at the spruced-up harbor of Port Vell; east of this area is the old fishing quarter of Barceloneta, further east still the glitzy Port Olímpic. North of Plaça de Catalunya is L'Eixample, home to the hallmarks of Modernist architecture including the much-photographed Sagrada Familia and a dash of other Gaudí-designed buildings. Due northwest of L'Eixample is the barrio of Gràcia, an enchanting enclave of narrow streets, cozy squares and, perched above it, another Gaudí landmark: Parc Güell. Of Barcelona's many hilltop neighborhoods, two in particular are worth a visit: the leafy Montjuïc (southwest of the center) and Tibidabo, the imposing hill of on the city's northwest boundary.

Barcelona is a joy to explore on foot, but you'll need public transportation to reach some of the outlying attractions, especially the hilltop neighborhoods. The six-line metro system is clean and efficient – as is the bus network – but shuts down at midnight (later on weekends). For late-night outings, taxis are recommended; a green light at the top of the car means it is available. If you want to cover a lot of ground, we recommend buying the tourist travelcard (9.60€+) that gives you unlimited use of public transportation. Avid sightseers should invest in the Barcelona Card (24€+), valid for all transport and discounts at museums, clubs, shops, and restaurants. You can purchase both cards and pick up a wealth of free brochures and information at local tourist offices (www.barcelonaturisme.com) – the major branch is at Plaça de Catalunya 17-S (daily 9am-9pm), another is in Barri Gòtic at Plaça de Sant Jaume (Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-2pm). Art lovers should purchase the ArticketBCN (20€) which covers free admission to seven art centers including the Fundació Joan Miró and Museu Picasso; it too can be bought at the tourist offices and at the participating museums.

For a whirlwind intro to the city, we recommend joining a hop on-off tour. Bus Turístic (19€+; www.tmb.net) covers 44 stops on its three routes and your ticket gets you discounts at some local attractions. The tourism bureau (Plaça de Catalunya, 17-S; www.barcelonaturisme.com) also offers thematic walking tours: Gothic (daily 10am, 1.5hrs; €9.50); Modernist (Fri & Sat 4pm, June-Sept at 6pm, 2hrs; €10.50); Gourmet (Fri & Sat at 11am, 2hrs; €14); and Picasso (Tues-Sun 10.30am, 1.5hrs; €12 with museum admission). To explore Barcelona in an eco-friendly way, rent a bike from one of the many bike rental agencies such as Classic Bikes in El Raval (C/Tallers 45; www.barcelonarentbikes.com; €6 for 2 hours) or Bike Rental Barcelona, who will deliver to your hotel (€9.90 for 3 hours). There are bike tours offered by Biciclot (www.biciclot.net) and Scenic (www.scenicbcn.com). A helicopter tour by CAT Helicopters (45€+; www.cathelicopters.com) gets you a pricey but unforgettable view of the city and the coast. A cheaper alternative is the cross-harbor cable car from the Costa i Llobera gardens on Montjuïc to the Sant Sebastià tower in Barceloneta (winter 10am-6pm, spring & fall 10.45am-7pm, summer 11am-8pm; every 15 minutes; €7.50, €9 return; 093/225-2718).

La Rambla & Barri Gòtic
A stroll on La Rambla is the perfect initiation to the delights of Barcelona's old city. Start at the fountain-dotted Plaça de Catalunya at the top of the promenade and join the sea of tourists and locals for an amble along this mile-long leafy thoroughfare lined with cafes and restaurants all the way down to where the street meets the sea. En route, you'll pass colorful stalls selling birds and flowers; newspaper and souvenir stands; street mimes; and the musicians who provide a soundtrack for your walk. You'll be stirred by the experience of Barcelona's vibrant street life, but don't be so moved to let your bag or camera dangle off your shoulder – pickpockets and bag-snatchers are infamously slick. Roughly half-way down La Rambla is a treat for your senses like no other: La Boqueria (no. 91-101; Mon-Sat 8am-8pm), a 19th-century covered market, sells fresh cuts of meat, shellfish, exotic fruit, and fragrant cheeses. Tip: Non-tourist prices are found at the stalls away from the main entrance. Sample the goods, but save room for dessert – nearby at no.74 (opposite the city's grand opera house) is Café de l'Opera (see Where to Eat); it serves the city's best chocolate con churros (thick hot chocolate with fried dough).

History buffs should now head east of La Rambla into medieval Barcelona and the Gothic Quarter known as Barri Gòtic. Age-old squares and alleyways make up a shady labyrinth complete with ancient structures that date back to the 13th century. At the center is La Seu Cathedral (Plaça de la Seu; daily 7.45am-7.45pm; 4€), one of Spain's most astonishing specimens of Gothic architecture. Dedicated to Santa Eulàlia – Barcelona's patron saint whose tomb lies in the crypt – it features elaborate choir stalls in the interior, a beautiful cloister that overlooks a palm tree-filled garden and a terrace (daily 1-5pm) with superb views over the centuries' old rooftops nearby. If you're around on a weekend, stop by the cathedral square for the sardana (the Catalan national dance) performance (Feb-July & Sept-Nov, Sat 6pm & Sun noon).

Just west of here lies Plaça del Rei, a stupendous square graced with some of the city's oldest buildings, including the remains of Saló del Tinell, the former royal palace that – legend has it – hosted Columbus on his return from America. Access to the Renaissance watchtower of Torre del Rei Martí is included if you visit the excellent Museu d'Història de la Ciutat on the square (City History Museum, Plaça del Rei s/n; June-Sept Tues-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-3pm; Oct-May Tues-Sat 10am-2pm & 4-8pm, Sun 10am-3pm; 4€; www.museuhistoria.bcn.es), but the real highlight here is the underground remnants of the Roman colony of Barcino. You'll pass excavated items ranging from statues to oil presses to mosaics as you walk along the underground paths that lead all the way to the Cathedral.

Back above ground, give in to sunny pleasures and unwind with a drink at our favorite square in the Gothic Quarter, Plaça del Pí, home to the 15th-century Santa Maria del Pí church; the adjoining and equally charming Plaça Sant Josep Oriol hosts a painters' market each weekend morning. Another great square, the grand Plaça Reial, with its 19th-century pastel-colored arcades, soaring palm trees, and a fountain with Gaudí-designed lanterns around it is just a short walk to the southeast.

La Ribera, El Born & El Raval
For a spot of shopping and a dose of culture, head southeast of Barri Gòtic to La Ribera and El Born, the most gentrified part of town, with some of the trendiest boutiques, restaurants, and bars around. The old harbor area is also home to the Museo Picasso (C/Montcada 15-23; Tues-Sun 10am-8pm; 6€ permanent collection, 5€ temporary exhibits, 8.50€ combined ticket; www.museupicasso.bcn.es), an homage to this influential painter's formative years in Barcelona; Picasso's first solo exhibit was held at Els Quatre Gats (see Where to Eat) in 1900. The row of connected medieval buildings that house the museum showcase a number of works from Pablo's Blue Period (1901-1904), but other items on display – 3500 in total – won't disappoint.

The marriage of old and new is a seamless one in Barcelona, and a short walk south of the Picasso Museum to the church of Santa Maria del Mar (Plaça de Santa Maria) proves it. The Catalan-Gothic beauty of a church, with its stunning stained-glass rose window above the main door, is a striking contrast to what fronts it – the tree-lined Passeig del Born (see Where to Shop), a stylish zone with the city's most cutting-edge shops and, come nighttime, the ultimate in bar and restaurant action. (See Nightlife).

One of Barcelona's favorite parks is on the eastern edge of La Ribera. Parc de la Ciutadella ( daily 10am-sunset; main entrance off Passeig de Picasso) is an urban oasis with a boating lake, historic greenhouses, and a smattering of Modernist structures built for the Universal Exhibition held here in 1888. The onsite Zoo (Carrer de Wellington entrance; daily June-Sept 10am-7pm, Mar-May & Oct 10am-6pm, Jan-Feb & Nov-Dec 10am-5pm; 14.50€ adults/8.75€ children; www.zoobarcelona.com), with its gorilla museum, pony rides, and mini-train is ideal if you have kids in tow.

Barcelona's multiculti flavor is best displayed in El Raval, west of La Rambla, where new immigrants live alongside new bohemians and, apart from a clutch of offbeat bars, clubs, and shops, gentrification hasn't taken over – yet. Better to stick to daytime wanderings here, especially in the neighborhood's seedy lower section, once the notorious red light district and today an area of mostly decrepit buildings. The upper part of the neighborhood is a little more spruced up thanks to its star attraction, the Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona (Plaça dels Angels 1; July-Sept Mon, Wed, & Fri 11am-8pm, Thurs 11am-midnight, Oct-June daily Mon, Wed-Fri 11am-7.30pm, Sat 10am-8pm and Sun 10am-3pm year-round; 4€ permanent collection, 4€ temporary exhibits, 7.5€ combined ticket; www.macba.es), a sparkling Richard Meier-designed structure of white concrete and glass surfaces that stands out among its neighbors' shabby facades. An incredible atrium, glass-floored galleries, and winding ramps house a collection of late-20th-century works with an emphasis on Spanish and Catalan artists; look for photos, paintings and installations by Antoni Tàpies, Joan Miró, and international artists Jean-Michel Basquiat and Joseph Beuys, among others.

L'Eixample
An elegant area stretching northwest of Plaça de Catalunya, L'Eixample is the result of the late-nineteenth-century expansion of Barcelona, whence the name, which effectively means 'Extension'. In contrast to the cozy labyrinthine layout of the old city, everything comes on a bigger scale in this zone of grand boulevards like Passeig de Gràcia and Rambla de Catalunya. Here you'll find the city's signature buildings of Modernism, a Catalan version of Art Nouveau made famous by Barcelona's homegrown Antoni Gaudí. Even if you're not an architecture buff, a peek at some of these whimsical structures is an absolute must.

Even if you've seen photographs of Gaudí's Sagrada Família (C/Mallorca 401; Apr-Sept 9am-8pm, Oct-March 9am-6pm; 8€, 3.5€ guided tour; www.sagradafamilia.org), nothing can prepare you for the beauty of the real thing, found on the easternmost edge of L'Eixample. Its eccentric architect started this extraordinary building in 1882 and continued working on it for 40 years until his sudden death in 1926 cut the grand project short. The man who envisioned the Temple of the Holy Family, with its 18 spires and a giant tower dedicated to Jesus Christ, is buried underneath the nave – but probably doesn't rest in peace, as the church has been a controversial construction site since the 1950s (with ambitious plans to finish by 2020); many believe it should have been left untouched as a monument to its great mastermind. The scaffolding, cranes, and noise aside, the spectacular structure will to wow you with its latticed stonework, dripping concrete, and carved buttresses. If you dare, make a dizzying climb up one of the towers for a close-up look at the gargoyles and other intricate sculptures (an easier route whisks you up in an elevator for 2€, but expect to wait in line).

Walk ten minutes west along Carrer de Provença and come to Gaudí's last secular project, the Casa Milà (Passeig de Gràcia 92; daily 10am-8pm; 8€), also known as La Pedrera (Stone Quarry), a curvy limestone house complete with sinuous arabesques and designed for a rich businessman. Start at the rooftop terrace and check out the bizarre chimneys decked out in marble, glass-bottle fragments, and tiles; then pause to take in the view of Sagrada Familia. Stop inside a get a et a peak into the artist's life via the audio-visual materials in the Gaudí Space, then visit El Pis de La Pedrera, a reconstructed Modernist apartment on the fourth floor, for a look at how bourgeois families lived in the early-20th century.

One of Barcelona's most popular attractions is another Gaudí confabulation: the undulating Casa Battló, a short stroll south on Passeig de Gràcia (Passeig de Gràcia no.43; daily 9am-8pm; 16.50€; www.casabatllo.es) where you can tour its elaborately decked out apartment, atmospheric attic, and elaborately tiled roof. Tip Reserve your ticket in advance to avoid lines. Next door at no.41, the tile-covered gable of Casa Amatller is yet another Modernist feat, this one designed by the architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch in an eclectic style that combines neo-Gothic and Flemish elements. For other Modernist milestones in L'Eixample, check out www.rutadelmodernisme.com.

Just north of here is one of Barcelona's best small museums, Fundació Antoni Tàpies (C/Aragó 255; Tues-Sun 10am-8pm; 6€; www.fundaciotapies.org) which showcases a stellar collection of works by Catalonia's most famous living artist including his abstract paintings, sculptures made of organic materials and found objects, drawings, books, and engravings.

Montjuïc
Some of the city's best museum-hopping is found on Montjuïc, a hill overlooking the harbor just southwest of the old city, and art buffs could easily spend a day just visiting the cultural institutions here. Our favorite spot is the small and lovely Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de Montjuïc s/n; Tues, Wed, Fri, & Sat Oct-June 10am-7pm (8pm July-Sept), Thurs 10am-9.30pm, Sun 10am-2.30pm; 7.5€ for permanent collection, 4€ for temporary exhibits; www.bcn.fjmiro.es), in an airy building with a fantastic display of paintings, drawings, and tapestries by this Catalan artist famous for his signature use of primary colors and organic shapes. The museum's sculpture garden and the views off the rooftop terrace are a must-see.

An enlightening lesson on Catalan heritage can be had at the nearby Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (Parc de Montjuïc; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-2.30pm; 8.5€ valid for two days), a treasure trove of 11th- to 20th-century objects inside the imposing Palau Nacional on the mountain's northern flank. The museum's first-rate collection runs the gamut from Romanesque murals to Gothic frescoes and a fine anthology of modern Catalan art, including many Modernist works.

A fun attraction for both you and the little ones lies a short distance away at the open-air Poble Espanyol (Mon 9am-8pm, Tues-Thurs 9am-2am, Fri 9am-4am, Sat 9am-5pm; Sun 9am-11pm; 7.5€, 4€ kids; www.poble-espanyol.com), a museum comprised of two miles of streets and six squares showcasing reconstructions of typical Spanish architecture from different regions of the country, including Andalucian whitewashed houses and patios, palm-fringed Mallorcan mansions, and medieval Valencian houses as well as kids' activities, workshops, stores, and plenty of restaurants.

Waterfront
Long-gone are the days when Barcelona's waterfront was a sketchy area of dubious characters and decrepit buildings. Known as Port Vell (the Old Port), this four-mile stretch of palm-fringed seafront has attracted sun-tanned locals and wide-eyed tourists to its Miami-flavored setting since the early 1990s.

Take in a panoramic view from the platform at Mirador de Colom (Plaça del Portal de la Pau; daily 9am-8.30pm; 2.2€), an iron structure topped with a bronze statue of Columbus commemorating his return from the New World in 1493, then catch a ride on one of the Golondrinas (4€+) from the pier below it for a vista from the sea.

Across the wooden boardwalk is Barcelona's tackiest attraction, the Maremàgnum entertainment center (Moll d'Espanya; www.maremagnum.es), set on an artificial island packed with overpriced restaurants, bars, and shops; the city's fun aquarium (Mon-Fri 9.30am-9pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am-9.30pm, weekends in July & Aug till 11pm; 15.50€; www.aquariumbcn.com) and IMAX theater (check the website for a screening schedule; www.imaxportvell.com) are the main reasons people visit. If you're pressed for time, we recommend skipping it in favor of a stroll along the long, slender streets and palm-dotted squares of Barceloneta, the old fishing quarter that occupies a promontory to the east. This is one of the city's most authentic barrios and home to some of the best-value fish restaurants (see Where to Eat).

A pleasant 15-minute walk further east along the seafront promenade takes you to Port Olímpic, the city's Olympic district marked by two tall towers – the Hotel Arts and Mapfre – with the marina at its center and a plethora of summer-only beach bars known as chiringuitos.

Gràcia
For a small-town vibe, head to the delightful barrio of Gràcia northwest of L'Eixample, past Avinguda Diagonal. Once a separate town, today Gracia is a culture-rich enclave of low-rise buildings and tight-packed alleyways dotted with charming squares such as the tree-shaded Plaza del Sol, our favorite. The area's biggest attraction is another Gaudí masterpiece, his stunningly landscaped Parc Güell (C/d'Olot; daily Oct-March 10am-6pm, Apr-Sept 10am-8pm; free for park, 4€ for museum), a fantastical hilltop retreat spread over several lush acres complete with two gingerbread gatehouses, wavy benches covered in ceramic tiles, a series of meandering paths, and an artful dragon covered in mosaics. This eccentric architect spent the last 20 years of his life living in the park's Casa-Museu Gaudí; today it showcases a collection of his personal objects and drawings.

Tibidabo
For the best vistas of the city and the sea – that on a clear day stretch all the way to the Pyrenees Mountains and the island of Mallorca – make the trek up to Tibidabo. Getting there is as riveting as the view; first comes a ride on an antiquated old tram, and then a fun jaunt above the pine trees via the Funicular del Tibidabo (2.3€ one-way, 3.5€ round-trip). At the end awaits Tibidabo amusement park (May-June Sat & Sun noon-8pm; July & early Sept Wed-Fri noon-8pm, Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-10pm; Aug Mon-Thurs noon-10pm, Fri-Sun noon-11pm; mid-Sept to April weekends only, hours vary; 11€+; www.tibidabo.es), an old-fashioned funfair that dates back to 1889 and features over 30 attractions from roller-coaster rides to old-fashioned carousels; you can even try the world's first large flight simulator and feel as if your flying. If rides aren't your thing, have a drink at any of the mountaintop spots and ponder the blue sea below.

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