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Barcelona

Restaurants

Some say Barcelona has trumped Paris as a foodie destination. Whether or not you agree, there's no denying the burgeoning gourmet movement in the city. In Barcelona itself, options range from fine five-star dining to cheap spots for a quick bite. If you tire of the creative Catalan cuisine, ethnic restaurants are slowly appearing on the scene. Lunch, served between 2pm and 4pm, is the day's most important meal, and often comes with great value menú del día (set menu). Dinner is served late – the earliest you can expect to eat the day's final meal is 9pm, so plan accordingly.

For high-end, contemporary Catalan cuisine, head to L'Eixample. The chic Cinc Sentits (C/Aribau 58; 093/323-9490; www.cincsentits.com) churns out specialties such as wild Mediterranean sea bass, Iberian suckling pig, or shredded oxtail topped off with artisanal cheeses. Michelin-starred Alkimia (C/Indústria 79; 093/207-6115) serves treats for a refined palate – wild rice with crayfish or an updated version of the very Catalan pa amb tomàquet (white bread rubbed with tomato pulp and olive oil) – in a sparse interior as not to distract from the food. Glamorous Moo (C/Rosselló 265; 093/445-4000; www.hotelomm.es) inside the Hotel Omm (see Where to Stay) offers haute Catalan fare paired with a terrific wine list; the lunchtime tasting menu for 40€ is worth every euro. For a delicious blend of ambience and gastronomy, head to Casa Calvet (C/Casp 48; 093/412-4012), housed in a Gaudí-designed building with ostentatious interiors heavy on drapery and stained glass.

For a speakeasy-style gourmet dinner at midrange prices, book a table at one of the city's most-praised newcomers, the intimate Tapioles 53 (C/Tapioles 53; 093/329-2238; www.tapioles53.com) in Poble Sec, where globally inspired dishes prepared with fresh ingredients are presented in person by the Australian chef. Compared to the offerings in Madrid and Sevilla, tapas may not be Barcelona's strong suit, but we've singled out a few great and well-priced spots to sample them. The traditional Quimet & Quimet (C/Poeta Cabanyes 25; 093/442-3142) in the Poble Sec area below Montjuïc serves affordable montaditos (bite-size sandwiches topped with various fillings), cheese, wines, and cava (champagne) in a miniature dining room. Mam i Teca (C/Luna 4; 093/441-3335) dishes out great charcuterie and daily specials in a cozy space a stone's throw from the MACBA in El Raval. For new-wave Catalan tapas, don't miss a meal at Comerç 24 (C/Comerç 24; 093/319-2102) in El Born, where tastets (small portions) of creative dishes like soy quail lollipop or mollet egg with Jabugo ham are prepared in a cool, no-frills spot.

For those on a tighter budget we recommend value lunches at Les Quinze Nits (Plaça Reial 6; 093/317-3075) in Barri Gòtic, where Mediterranean fare is served in an airy interior or on a lovely outdoor terrace; try the botifarra (grilled sausage with beans). Café de l'Opera (La Rambla 74; 093/317-7585) is another mainstay, best known for its chocolate con churros, but also serving light fare like sandwiches and salads. Also recommended is the turn-of-the-20th-century Els Quatre Gats (C/Montsió 3; 093/302-4140) that offers Mediterranean standards and great ambience. If you want a bite that's healthy and easy on the pocket, Organic in El Raval (Junta de Comerç 11; 093/301-0902) has great lunch buffets for only 9€ on weekdays. Our favorite spot in Barceloneta, Can Majó (C/Almirante Aixada 23; 093/221-5455) serves fantastic paella at low prices.

If you tire of local food, head to Shunka (C/Sagristans 5; 093/412-4991), considered among the best Japanese spots in town; or try the curious fusion of Japanese and Catalan – think tuna tataki with foie gras or duck magret in shiitake pickling brine – at Shojiro (C/Ros de Olano 11; 093/415-6548). Another popular non-Iberian option is Himali in Gràcia (C/Milà i Fontanals 60; 093/285-1568), where Nepalese cuisine is at its cheapest for lunch with a set menu for 8€.

For sea vistas that don't cost a fortune, savor fresh seafood on the sunny beach terrace or in the bright interior of hip Agua (Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta 30; 093/225-1272). If you have cash to splash, grab an open-air table by the sea at Andaira (C/Vilajiosa 52–54; 093/221-1616) where eclectic gastronomic combos are bound to tickle your taste buds. For a birds-eye of Barcelona, book a terrace table at L'Orangerie inside the Gran Hotel Florida (Ctra de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo 83-93; 093/259-3000; www.hotellaflorida.com) where innovative Mediterranean cuisine is paired with awesome views.

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