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Getting There

Airlines arriving into Buenos Aires' two-terminal international airport, Ezeiza (EZE; www.aa2000.com.ar), which is also known as Pistarini, include Aerolíneas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com); Air Canada (www.aircanada.com); American (www.aa.com); Continental (www.continental.com); Delta (www.delta.com); LAN Chile (www.lan.com); United (www.united.com); and Varig (www.varig.com). Non-stop flights from the East Coast take 8.5 hours from Miami and 11 to 12 hours from New York; West Coast travelers coming from Los Angeles will have to factor in closer to 16 hours. Keep in mind that you'll need to keep US$18 on hand for the airport departure tax on your return flight.

Many United States tour operators provide escorted tours and air-and-hotel packages to Buenos Aires and other points in Argentina, ranging from budget to ultra luxe. They include Latin America specialists such as Four-Star Argentina (www.4starargentina.com); Ladatco (www.ladatco.com); Latour (www.latour.com); and Marnella Tours (www.marnellatours.com), as well as more general operators like Abercrombie & Kent (www.abercrombiekent.com); Gate1Travel (www.gate1travel.com); Go-Today.com (www.go-today.com); Sunny Land Tours (www.sunnylandtours.com); and Travel Bound (www.travelbound.com).

Getting Into and Around Buenos Aires
From Ezeiza airport, the drive to the city center is 30 to 45 minutes in light traffic – and can top an hour at rush hour. You can grab a city bus (2 pesos); hop the quicker Manuel Tienda León shuttle (25 pesos one-way, 45 round-trip; www.tiendaleon.com.ar); or hire a taxi or remise (car with driver) from one of the booths as you come into the arrivals hall; we recommend Taxi Ezeiza (53 pesos; www.taxiezeiza.com).

Don't bother renting a car if you're staying in the heart of Buenos Aires. Trust us – it's not particularly cheap and the driving can be hair-raising and confusing thanks to the abundance of one-way streets. You're better off taking inexpensive taxis for transportation; stick to the ones with "radio" in their names and small illuminated signs on their roofs; two premium cab companies include Premium (011-54-11-5238-0000; www.taxipremium.com) and ISU (011-54-11-4635-2500). Also very useful, and even more economical for navigating various central and outlying areas is the subway system known as el subte, short for subterráneo (www.subte.com.ar); easier to decipher than the bus system, it operates 5am-10.30pm and costs under a peso per ride, and less with multiple-ride passes. The most traveled line, Line A, starts at Plaza de Mayo and maintains a historic feel – right down to original wooden subway cars.