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Costa Rica

Hotels

There are adequate to admirable accommodations in all price ranges in various parts of San Jose. Your best full-service upscale bet within walking distance of the museums and downtown is the 107-room Radisson Europa (Avenida 15/Calle 3 & Central; 888/201-1718), with a pool, restaurant, and casino. But if you don’t mind being a little away from the center, we adore a stylish hotel called the Alta Hotel (Carretera Vieja Santa Ana; 888/388-2582), in the western suburbs of Escazú, because of its compelling updated-hacienda architecture, romantic vibe, and its superb restaurant, one of San José’s best.

In the moderate range you can find some of the capital’s most historic properties, mostly restored coffee barons’ mansions; the most praised and pretty is El Grano de Oro (Calle 30/Avenidas 2 & 4; 011-506/255-3322), with 35 rooms, a very good destination restaurant, and perks such as a pair of rooftop jacuzzis.

Entering bargain territory, we like a sprawing, quiet 35-roomer called Hotel Aranjuez (Calle 19/ Avenidas 11-13; 877/898-8663), an eco-friendy choice in the neighborhood of the same name just east of the center of town. If you want to go rock-bottom, we’d recommend the Hostel Pangea (Avenida 11/Calle 3 bis; 011-506/221-1992), in the historic, fairly central Amón neighborhood.

Manuel Antonio
Most of the more upscale resorts are scattered across the big forested hill sloping down to the beach and national park, while midrange and budget choices can be found toward the bottom near the beach (it sounds counterintuitive, but consider that the higher up the hill, the better the views); a variety of low-cost options also exist in the neighboring town of Quepos, which requires a bus or taxi ride to Manuel Antonio. The most fetching top-end resort in our book is the Hotel Makanda by the Sea (011-506/777-0442), an adults-only collection of just 11 contemporary villas and studios perched on the hillside; there’s a beautiful pool and restaurant, and of course the views are to die for. Several other wonderful resorts in the same price range boast more bells and whistles but are slightly more conventional. For tropical flavor, mind you, we love Sí Como No (800/282-0488), and, for its old-Europe ambience, none can compare to El Parador (011-506/777-1414). Possibly the best views of all are on offer at La Mariposa (800/416-2747), perched at the very top of the hill; even if you don't stay here, do stop by for a cocktail.

If you’re watching your wallet, a good midrange choice is the Casitas Eclipse (011-506/777-0408), with a whitewashed, upscale-feeling resort atmosphere at value rates. Somewhat less pricey are the colorful Banana Tree (011-506/777-1585), a hop and a skip down the hill, and the Beach Hotel Espadilla (011-506/777-2135), at sea level just a block from the sand. For the best of the budget pack, you’ll have to head over to Quepos, where the recently opened Widemouth Frog (011-506/777-2798) is very clean, welcoming, and well-equipped (complete with pool) for the backpacker set.

Arenal
The town of La Fortuna is the place to look for budget options; the midrange and luxe lodges and resorts are found out of town, along the road leading up to the national park and the lake (though there are a smattering of more economical digs along here, as well). The most luxurious is probably Tabacón Hot Springs Resort & Spa(877/277-8291), whose full panoply of amenities includes admission to the eponymous hot-springs park nearby – book well in advance. A notch down in price, another classy choice is Montaña de Fuego (011-506/460-1220), with a fine spa and one of the best restaurants in the area, and Los Lagos (011-506/461-1818), an enormous hillside spread with bells and whistles like a spa, hot springs, slide-equipped pools, and even live crocodiles.

For its lovely forest setting and truly spectacular volcano views, though, we have a soft spot for the Arenal Observatory Lodge (011-506/290-7011), a refurbished Smithsonian research station which now boasts most of the expected resort perks and comforts at moderate prices. If you’re looking to save as much as possible without stinting on country setting and views, the Roca Negra Inn (479-9237; email: rocanegrainn@yahoo.com) is a handful of nicely equipped units just outside town.

In La Fortuna itself (a convenient base because that’s where most of the restaurants, shops, and tour operators are), your best budget bet is Luigi’s (www.luigishotel.com), a good motel-like set-up with pool and a nice Italian restaurant. The most recommendable rock-bottom choice (and there are some truly dismal and dreary ones) is Hotel La Fortuna (866/907-4678), whose cantina serves tasty low-cost local fare, as well.

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