Attractions
With so many options for exploring Cusco and its surrounding region, choosing where to go first can be overwhelming. While iPerú offices (government-operated clearinghouses for tourist information; www.peru.info) are available – one in the arrivals terminal of Cusco's Velasco Astete Airport (084/237-364) and another at Avenida Sol 103 (084/234-498) – your best bet for booking Cusco City tours, Sacred Valley day trips, Inca Trail treks, or Machu Picchu excursions is with one of the dozens of tour operators situated around Cusco's bustling Plaza de Armas. Note that you'll also need to pay entrance fees for most, if not all, Inca sites you visit.
Tour Operators
Our favorite local tour operators include: SAS Travel (Portal de Panes 167; 084/255-205; www.sastravelperu.com), the largest trekking agency in Cusco and the only one with guaranteed daily departures to Machu Picchu; the family-run Peru Treks & Adventure (Calle Garcilaso 265, Office 11, 2nd Floor; 084/505-863; www.perutreks.com), specializing in both Inca trail and alternative hiking excursions to Machu Picchu (Monday, Wednesday, Friday departures) at very reasonable rates, plus wonderful Cusco city and Sacred Valley tours; and Andean Life (Calle Santa Teresa 381 or Calle Plateros 372; 866-356-5524; www.andeanlife.com), with Cusco city tours, excursions to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, jungle trips, and whitewater rafting adventures. Tip: When booking, make sure to ask for an English-speaking guide, and don't be shy about citing your accommodation preferences.
Entrance Fees
Entrance to most sites in and around Cusco, including those in the Sacred Valley, is granted with the purchase of a boleto turístico (tourist ticket); your best bet is to buy the full ticket (70 soles; valid for 10 days) that grants access to 16 cultural and architectural sites. Access to the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu is sold separately: the Inca Trail pass alone costs $73/day; entrance to Machu Picchu is $25/day. Most sites sell tickets at their entrances; they're also sold at the Oficina Ejecutiva del Comite (OFEC; Av. Sol 103; 084/227-037) and the helpful Oficina de Informacion Turistica (Mantas 117-A; 084/263-176).
CUSCO
Known as Huacaypata (Warrior Square) to the Incas, Plaza De Armas is where Pizarro proclaimed the conquest of Cusco in 1534. Enveloped by balconied shops, bars, and restaurants, this energetic main square is positioned around a massive colonial fountain. One of its most frequented attractions is the recently restored, Renaissance-style La Catedral (Plaza de Armas, north side; no phone; Mon-Sat 10-11:30am and 2-5:30pm; Sun 2-5pm; admission with boleto), completed in 1669, which consists of two chapels: the Capilla del Triunfo and the Capilla de la Sagrada Familia (where you can buy the boleto). La Compania de Jesus (Plaza de Armas, east side; no phone; free admission; Mon-Sat 11am-noon and 3-4pm), a Jesuit church cater-cornered to La Catedral, is equally impressive.
Other notable churches include Iglesia de la Merced (Calle Mantas; Mon-Sat 8.30am-noon and 2pm-5pm; 084/231-831; 3 soles), home to a beautiful baroque stonework cloister; and the Renaissance-style Santa Catalina Church & Convent (Santa Catalina Angosta; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat. 9am-4pm; 084/226-032; admission with boleto), which was built on the foundations of Acllawasi (the Temple of the Sun Virgins), where women of beauty were selected to be the eternal wives of the sun god Inti. If time permits, visit the 17th-century Iglesia y Convento de San Franciso (Plaza San Francisco; Mon-Sat 2-5pm; 084/221-361; 3 soles), known for its ceiling frescoes, skull and bone decorations, and collection of colonial Spanish artworks.
Original Inca stone walls line some of the narrow, pedestrian-only streets that surround the Plaza; the eldest of these surviving structures is located east of the Plaza on Calle Loreto, while the exquisitely crafted 12-angled stone – guarded by a man dressed in traditional Inca garb – is located northeast of the Plaza on Calle Hatunrumiyoc. The best example of the intermingling between Spanish and Inca influences is the colonial church of Santo Domingo (Plazoleta Santo Domingo; Mon-Sat 8.30am-5.30pm; Sun 2-5pm; 084/222-071; 6 soles), whose finely wrought walls were originally part of Qoricancha (the Inca Temple of the Sun) and once lined with solid gold statues.
San Blas
Continue climbing the steep paths surrounding the Plaza and you'll hit the bohemian neighborhood of San Blas, home of artists, craftsmen, and Cusco's most jaw-dropping panoramic views. Because of its location – literally tucked into a quiet corner of the city – it has also attracted dozens of intimate eateries and cozy hotels (See Where to Eat and Where to Stay) geared to those seeking a reprieve from the Plaza's all-night antics. The neighborhood has its own tiny plaza at the top and to the right of the street Cuesta San Blas, but its main attraction is the Iglesia de San Blas, presumably the oldest parish church in all of Cusco (Mon-Wed and Fri-Sun 10am-11.30am, Mon-Sun 2pm-5.30pm; admission with boleto), notable for its 17th-century cedar pulpit purportedly carved from a single tree trunk.
Museums
While adapting to the altitude, spend some time gaping at everything from pre-Columbian artifacts to contemporary art at one of Cusco's many fine museums. Don't miss the Museo de Arte Precolombino (Casa Cabrera, Plaza de las Nazarenas; daily 9am-10pm; 084/233-210; 20 soles), which showcases gold and silver handicrafts, jewelry, ceramics, and other artifacts from both Inca and pre-Inca cultures; and the Monasterio y Museo de Arte de Santa Catalina (Santa Catalina Angosta; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; Sat 9am-4pm; 084/226-032; admission with boleto), an old convent that contains a museum of both Inca and Spanish art. You can also walk through Casa Garcilaso (Calle Heladeros; Mon-Sat 8am-5.30pm; 084/223-245; admission with boleto), the colonial home of 16th-century writer/poet Garcilaso de la Vega, son of a Spanish conquistador and an Inca princess.
Ruins
Four Inca ruins lie within the reaches of Cusco, and are easily accessible on foot. The closest site to town, and thus, the most visited of the lot, Sacsayhuamán (daily 7am-6pm; admission with boleto), pronounced a bit like "sexy woman," was, according to legend, created in the shape of a puma – an animal the Inca considered sacred – complete with zigzagging stone rows (for teeth) piled high against a backdrop of rolling green pastures. The site may have either been a religious temple or a military outpost; whatever it was, it hosted one of the most destructive battles in Spanish/Cusqueños history in 1536. Looming over the site from further up the hillsides is the 25 meter-high Spanish stone monument known as the White Christ (try to find it from below while sitting in the Plaza).
Other Incan ruins worth visiting around Cusco include the limestone outcrop of Q’enko (Mon-Sun and holidays; 7am-6pm; admission with boleto), carved out by the Incas and most likely used for ceremonial fertility rites, solstice/equinox celebrations, and sacrificial offerings; the small fortress of Puca Pucara (Mon-Sun and holidays; 7am-6 pm; admission with boleto), perhaps used as a storage facility or a guard post between Cusco and the Sacred Valley; and Tambomachay (Mon-Sun and holidays; 7am-6 pm; admission with boleto), also known as Los Banos del Inca (Inca baths), assumed to be used for water ceremonies and worship.
If you tire of walking, head just beyond Sacsayhuamán to the taxi pick-up/drop-off point, where you'll find a host of agents offering horseback riding tours through Puca Pucará and Tambomachay for negotiable rates. For a more organized tour, with guaranteed English-speaking guides, try Milla Turismo (Portal Comercio 195, Plaza de Armas; 084/231-710), whose ranch is located at Sacsayhuamán; they offer four-hour horseback-riding tours as well as five-hour biking programs that offer a change of pace.
THE SACRED VALLEY & THE INCA TRAIL
The lush agricultural region of the Urubamba Valley, better known as The Sacred Valley of the Incas (El Valle Sagrado de los Incas), lies about an hour from Cusco. This 62-mile stretch of land encompasses magnificent ruins, terraced fields, and the villages of Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantytambo, and Chinchero. Winding above the western half of the valley is the storied, 27-mile-long Inca Trail, a UNESCO World Heritage site that ranks as the most significant – and popular – hiking trek in all of South America. You can discover the best of both in three days by combining a day-trip to the valley with a two-day Inca Trail hike; tour operators around Cusco's Plaza de Armas (see Tour Operators above) will help map out routes.
The Sacred Valley
Most visitors opt for a simple one-day tour of the Sacred Valley (9 hours, $15-20 per person), departing on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays to coincide with some of the villages' market days, where you can buy handicrafts from actual craft makers, not resellers. If you're not into organized tours, however, you can take a local bus from Cusco or even rent a cab for the day for about 190 soles. The bulk of the valley lies to the northwest of Cusco; one exception, Pisac, lies to the northeast.
Closest to Cusco is the tiny town of Chinchero (17 miles NW of Cusco; daily from 7am-5.30pm; admission with boleto), home to some 12 distinct indigenous communities, most of whom still speak the ancient Inca language of Quechua and barter for goods instead of using money. At 12,500 feet, it's much higher than the rest of the Sacred Valley and the Cusco region, and it's believed to be the mythical birthplace of the rainbow. Ruins aside (they actually pale in comparison to most other Sacred Valley sites), most come to Chinchero to browse its Sunday market (see Shopping) or access the Salkantay Valley trek, a five- or seven-day journey popular with hikers looking for a quieter route to Machu Picchu (it eventually joins the traditional Inca Trail at Wayllabamba). Note: You'll need a boleto (see Entrance Fees, above) to enter Chinchero.
Further west, Urubamba (48 miles NW of Cusco), nestled amidst magnificent countryside, complete with the snowcapped Cordillera Urubamba mountain rising in the distance, is one of the busiest villages in the Sacred Valley. Its Plaza de Armas is lined by the twin-towered colonial Iglesia San Pedro church and Pablo Seminario Ceramic Studio (Berriozával 1st block; 9am-7pm; 084/201-002; www.ceramicaseminario.com/menui.htm), the workshop of renowned Peruvian artist Pablo Seminario, whose colorful pre-Columbian-inspired ceramic masterpieces are handcrafted on site. Two spectacular sites lie just beyond the town limits as well: The hillside of Salineras de Maras, consisting of thousands of ancient saltpans; and Moray, what appears to be a massive environmental art installation, possibly used by ancient farmers for experimental agricultural purposes. The easiest way to reach both sites is by taxi from the town center.
Continuing westward still, the quaint Ollantaytambo (60 miles NW of Cusco) – referred to simply as Ollanta (oh-yahn-tah) by locals – is an appealing town of cobblestone paths, adobe brick buildings, and colorfully decorated restaurants. A short walk from the town center finds the remnants of a massive temple-fortress built by the Inca leader Pachacútec: About 200 stone steps are carved into the lush mountainside; temples, baths, and fertility stones abound; and an Inca canal system still transports water from the mountains. If you're not traveling with an organized tour, you'll definitely want to hire the services (for about 20 soles) of one of the tour guides at the base of the ruins; they'll point out details you might otherwise overlook, like the faces of Inca Gods that protrude from the mountainside. You'll also probably encounter a young Peruvian child offering to sing you a song in Quechua (a reward of a couple soles makes for good karma).
East of Cusco, Pisac (20 miles NE of Cusco; daily from 7am-6pm; admission with boleto), a small Andean village dominated by some of the most massive ruins in the entire valley, is actually best known for its Sunday artisan market. Villagers from miles around gather to barter and sell their produce at the market, which is a great place to acquire local ceramics and colorful hand-painted beads. When you tire of shopping, take a cab up the meandering path toward the town's ruins. You'll want at least an hour to hike the stone steps and snap photos of the perfectly curved terraces that are carved into the steep hunter-green mountainsides. Note: You'll need a boleto (see Entrance Fees, above) to visit Pisac.
The Inca Trail
Starting a few miles west of Ollantaytambo, the Inca Trail loops south of the Urubamba River, traversing a range of elevations between about 8,530 and 13,780 feet, and coursing over stone-stair trails surrounded by cloud-covered forests, cascading mountains, dense orchid-rich vegetation, and dozens of Inca ruins, before dropping back down to 7,710 feet at Machu Picchu.
Because it attracts over 70,000 people each year, government regulations now limit access to the Inca Trail to a mere 500 visitors per day, excursions are relegated to specific departure days, and the only way to walk the trail is with an official guide; the trail is also entirely closed to the public each February. Accordingly, booking well in advance with a recognized tour operator (see Tour Operators above) is highly recommended, especially if you're intent to visit in peak season (June–September), in which case you should book at least three to six months prior to departure. With the exception of SAS Travel, which offers guaranteed daily departures, most travel agencies limit departures to three days per week. A two-day trek begins only 8¾ miles away from Machu Picchu; groups spend the night near Huinay Huayna, the last set of ruins before Machu Picchu. The most classic Inca Trail hike, a phenomenal, four-day, 27-mile trek, passes through sub-tropical jungles and three formidable mountain passes before joining the shorter two-day trek that culminates at Machu Picchu. Trail access costs $73; package trips include the trail pass, porter, accommodation, and more.
MACHU PICCHU
No matter what activities you plan for your stay in Cusco, no trip would be complete without visiting Machu Picchu, or Old Mountain (74 miles NW of Cusco; Mon-Sun 9am-6pm; $25; bring your passport to the entrance gates for an official stamp), the site of Peru's most remarkable Inca ruins. Curiously untouched by European conquerors, the enormous stone ruins were overtaken by dense jungle vegetation until Hiram Bingham's rediscovery in 1911. Perhaps it is the "lost" city's location – nestled high among the Andes Mountains at 7,710 feet, regularly swathed in pockets of fog, and completely hidden from the Urubamba Valley below – that helped keep its existence a secret for so long. Though archaeological evidence shows that Machu Picchu was probably more of a country retreat for Inca nobility than a conventional city, questions still linger about to where exactly its onetime residents fled; and some tour guides will even joke that perhaps they still exist in yet another undiscovered Andean city.
If you're not doing the Inca Trail, the only way to get to Machu Picchu is by train from Cusco (3.5–4hrs) to the tiny frontier town of Machu Picchu Pueblo (at the Puente Ruinas station), where a 20-minute bus ride (departing every 10 minutes from 5.30am–5pm; 20 soles each way, water included) will take you the remaining five miles to Machu Picchu itself – you can also get there on foot (the way the Inca did) by hiking up a steep set of stairs to reach the plateau (count on an hour to make the ascent). Since the site attracts more and more visitors each year, peak hours can get crowded (but rarely overwhelming so, due to the site's vast size). Mid-day temperatures can also become blisteringly hot, with barely any shade for respite, so be sure to pack your sunscreen and plenty of water. It's best to rise early and visit before 11am – or stay until after 3pm – to avoid the crowds and the heat (most organized treks actually start as early as 5am).
After you've traversed Machu Picchu's many stone temples, fields, terraces, and baths, climbing Huayna Picchu (Young Mountain), the iconic backdrop for many classical Machu Picchu photos, is an absolute must (daily 9am-5pm). Rising to about 8,858 feet, the mountain requires an intense one-hour ascent, zigzagging up finely carved stone stairs. As steep and dangerous as it may appear, there are abundant safety railings and turn-around points for those who get cold feet. But we assure you that the climb is well worth the sweat – the panoramic views are priceless.
If you reach Huayna Picchu's peaks early enough in the day, take a two-hour detour on the descent to the Temple of the Moon, which houses mysterious caverns, niches, and portals that include exquisitely carved thrones and an altar. Despite its name, it's unlikely the site was used as a lunar observatory, but rather as a center for worshipping the Huayna Picchu mountain spirit. You'll need to exit by 4pm (the site officially closes at 5pm); you also won't be allowed entry after 2pm.
In the opposite direction of Huayna Picchu lie Intipunku (Sun Gate) and Huinay Huayna (Forever Young), two paths along the Inca Trail that boast beautiful ruins and forested trails, and make for a great day out for those who skipped the Inca Trail en-route to Machu Picchu. Note that you can return for a second day of hiking at half price; just present your original ticket at the entrance to get the discount.
Many tour operators organize overnight accommodations in Machu Picchu Pueblo, a compact outpost confined to two main streets: Avenida Imperio de Los Incas and Avenida Pachacútec. Though awash in other conveniences – restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, and markets, all catering specifically to the tourist population – ATMs are nonexistent (travelers' checks and money can be changed at various spots like the local pharmacy). There isn't much to do here but get psyched about your trek to Machu Picchu while swapping adventure tales with other travelers; the most popular venue for such exchanges is the Baños Termales (a 10-minute walk up Avenida Pachacútec; 5am-9pm; 12 soles), thermal baths where bathing suits can be purchased (5 soles) or rented (3 soles), and lockers and towels are available for minimal fees. Although some may shy away from the volcanic rock baths at first sight due to their cloudy complexion, it's a great place to unwind and relax sore muscles after a long trek. In case you get thirsty, do as the sign says and whistle; friendly poolside bar service is on call.
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