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Getting There

Since there are no direct flights into Cusco or Machu Picchu, most visitors from the U.S. fly to Lima's Internacional Jorge Chávez and connect onward on local airlines. Airlines to Lima include Lan Airlines (www.lan.com), TACA Airlines (www.taca.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com), Delta (www.delta.com), Continental (www.continental.com), Spirit Airlines (www.spiritair.com) and Aeroméxico (www.aeromexico.com). LanPeru provides direct service to Lima from New York (both JFK and LGA), Miami, Chicago, and Los Angeles; Continental flies non-stop from Newark and Houston; and SpritAirlines now also flies direct from Fort Lauderdale. To connect onward to Cusco, book through a domestic airline like Lan Peru (www.lan.com), Taca Peru (www.taca.com), Aerocondor Perú (www.aerocondor.com.pe), Aviandina (www.aerolineasperuanas.com/aviandina.htm), and Star Perú (www.starperu.com); flight time is under an hour.

Package Providers
Orbitz (www.orbitz.com), Expedia (www.expedia.com), and Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) offer good packages to Cusco and its surrounding region. Package providers specializing in Peru include Tara Tours (www.taratours.com), Marnella Tours (www.marnellatours.com), and Discover Latin America (www.discoverlatinamerica.com).

Getting Into Cusco
Taxis and private hotel cars are the best way to get into Cusco from the aiport; factor on a 20-minute drive. Upon exiting the airport, swarms of taxi drivers will be vying for your business; never accept the first fare they offer. Standard rates range from 3 soles (by day) to 5 soles (at night), so don't be bashful about bargaining over the rate – no local would ever pay 10 soles for a taxi fare. Keep in mind that many hotels and hostels also provide airport pickup service, so inquire about that when you make your reservation.

Getting Around
The center of Cusco is small enough to traverse on foot, but taxis are an inexpensive option, at a mere 2 soles (3 soles after 10pm), and taking one is recommended come nightfall. Hailing a cab on the street is not to be feared, but if you prefer going through a recognized company, call Alo Cusco Taxis (084/222-222; www.alocusco.com) or Okarina (084/247-080). You can also hire them for half- or full-day tours of the Cusco region (about 190 soles for the day). Cabs from the Plaza de Armas to Sacsayhuamán can be bargained for 5 soles. Have the driver wait while you explore and then continue your journey to Puca Pucara and Tombomachay; haggle for 10 soles or so, but never pay the full amount up front; dish out 5 soles up front and guarantee the remainder upon return.

Full-size buses to the Sacred Valley are also quite popular and cheap. Be warned that there are numerous terminals and they can be very tricky to find, since signs signaling the stations are virtually nonexistent; be on the lookout and ask for help. Buses depart when full, which makes for crowded journeys; and since speed limits do not exist, imagine how intense your adventure could be! That said, the buses are generally safe and the drivers are experienced. Public transportation allows you, at the very least, the freedom to see the sites the way you want at an extremely inexpensive rate. So even if you blow all your money on airfare, your options for getting around are endless. Be sure to grab a map, and have no fear about asking for directions; locals will gladly help. You can also get advice and ticket information at the Oficina de Informacion Turistica (Mantas 117-A; 084/263-176) or the tourist office at the Terminal Terrestre de Huanchaq train station (Av. Pachacútec; 084/238-722).

A couple small stations to look out for include Av. Grau 525, with service via Chinchero (2 soles) to Urubamba (3.5 soles); Calle Puputi 208 with service via Pisac (2 soles) to Urubamba (3.5 soles); and from Urubamba's Av. Urubamba Railroad you can continue to Ollantaytambo (1 sole).

Additional modes of public transportation in Cusco include colectivos, vans that cover routes between Cusco and the Sacred Valley (i.e. from Cusco to Pisac) and usually depart when full; combis, the jam-packed vans you'll surely see wheeling passengers around town; and micros, small buses that also travel between Cusco and the Sacred Valley, all for a couple soles at most. Again, pick-up points can be confusing, so ask your hotel operator or the locals.

Train Transportation to Machu Picchu
Peru Rail (www.perurail.com) offers several train services to accommodate all budget types. The Backpacker is for adventurous budget savvy riders (about $73 Round Trip from April 1 to December 31; departures daily in peak season); while the more classy Vistadome is the quickest way to Machu Picchu and much more comfortable, offering panoramic views of the stunning scenery through clear ceiling windows ($105 Round Trip; $113 Round Trip peak season; departures daily). Both run from Cusco's San Pedro Station to Machu Picchu; or from the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo) to Machu Picchu. Most tour operators will organize accommodations aboard the Backpacker, so if you have a preference, be sure to specify when booking your trip.

The Hiram Bingham train (departing from Poroy Station, Mon-Sat year round; 20 minute drive from Cusco's center; $547 round trip, subject to change) is the most luxurious option, consisting of two dining cars, a bar, and a kitchen car. Packages include onboard meals with wine, entertainment, guides, bus transfers, entrance to the ruins, and afternoon tea at Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge.

See Machu Picchu Travel Guide