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Nightlife

While certain spots attract more gringos (as all tourists are often called), the most popular hangouts are generally mixed between tourists and locals. Even if Spanish speaking isn't your strongest asset, sharing a chela (slang for beer) is universally understood. Groups often buy large, liter-size beers rather than individual 12-ouncers. It's common for locals to approach you with a toast for no apparent reason – the fact that you're hanging out on their home turf is reason enough! Local brews include Cusqueña, Cusqueña Negra, Cristal, Barena, Brahma, and Pilsen.

Cusco Bars, Pubs, Cafés, and Clubs
An eclectic mix of bars, trendy cafes, and discotecas – most within walking distance of each other – culminates along the perimeter of the Plaza de Armas to create a laidback area for serious bar-hopping. Ironically enough, most establishments don't require cover charges for tourists (when they do it's no more than 16 soles). Other bonuses: Dress codes are unheard of and club promoters hanging around the Plaza are always distributing passes for free drinks.

Km.0 (Tandapata 100; 084/254-240; www.km0cusco.com) is an intimate, two-story bar with candle-lit tables, good music, great food, and a small stage hosting nightly bands. Kamikase (Plaza Regocijo 274, 2nd floor; 084/233-865; www.cuscoonline.com/kamikase), Cusco's self-proclaimed “original disco pub,” is popular with an older, local crowd, with live music starting nightly at 11pm. Noted for its rough-and-tumble demeanor, Norton Rat's Tavern (Loreto 115, Plaza de Armas; 084/246-204; www.nortonrats.com) is a must-see, with darts, a pool table, balcony views of the Plaza, and the best hamburger in town. Leave it to the Irish and English to open pubs in almost every city in the world; at Paddy Flaherty's (Triunfo 124, Plaza de Armas; 084/247-719) you'll find Guinness on tap and Rugby and other international sporting events on the tube. The more upscale watering hole of Rosie O'Grady's (Santa Catalina Ancha 360, near the Plaza de Armas; 084/247-935) features more of the same. The Cross Keys (Portal Confiturias 233, Plaza de Armas; no phone; www.cross-keys-pub-cusco-peru.com) is the only English-style pub in the city, compliments of owner Barry Walker, one of Peru's leading ornithologists.

Boasting the best crowds and the latest hours, the ever-popular Mama Africa (Portal Harinas 191, 2nd floor; 084/246-544; www.mamaafricaclub.com) is our top dance club pick; set to Latin, reggae, rock, techno, electronic, and even '80s beats, you can alternate between the comfy, candle-lit lounge and the jam-packed dance floor. Similar in setting and clientele – a young mix of locals and tourists – Up Town (Suecia 302, Plaza de Armas; 084/227-241) and Mythology (at Plaza de Armas near Santa Catalina; no phone) both offer salsa lessons before 11.30pm. At Ukukus (Plateros 316, 2nd floor; 084/233-445) – noted for its three-dimensional artwork where human-like figures and masks literally pop out of the ceilings and walls – live Peruvian music kicks off the night at 10.30pm, followed by DJ selections and dancing that peaks around 2am. Order and pay for your drinks at the register, then bring your receipt to the bartender – try the colorful Machu Picchu, a combo of pisco brandy, mint liqueur, grenadine, and orange juice. El Muki (Santa Catalina Angosta 114; 084/253-498; www.cuscoperu.com/elmuki) is a posh, cosmopolitan dance spot designed like a cave and ablaze in crimson red lights. Legend has it that a gnome protects the cave; hence the costumed midget who sits at the bar all night.

Folk Dance & Music Shows
The most prevalent of Peru's indigenous folkloric dances is known as Huayno, wherein high-pitched vocals are accompanied by a joyful symphony of instruments. Couples clad in colorful llama-wool garments swing to the rhythm of this lively music. For live performances, check the schedules at the Teatro Municipal (Calle Mesón de la Estrella 149; 084/221-847) and Centro Q'osqo (Av. El Sol 684; 084/227-901). You can purchase tickets at the Oficina de Informacion Turistica (Mantas 117-A; 084/263-176). Or just stumble upon some colorful entertainment at one of the city's many eateries – like El Truco or La Retama (see Restaurants).

Machu Picchu Pueblo Bars
With such an intense focus on daytime activities, Machu Picchu Pueblo is a bit short on nocturnal offerings – which is actually a blessing since you'll want to save your energy for all those early-morning treks. But if you're looking for a little excitement, head to the Baños Termales (walk up Av. Pachacútec) for a dip and drink at its small outside bar. You can also take a walk back down Av. Pachacútec to the Blues Bar Café (Av. Pachacútec s/n; 084/211-125), a perfect spot for sharing drinks, stories, and music. Or explore the area's restaurants on your own – Manu (Av. Pachacútec 139; 084/211-101) is a great spot for sampling a pisco sour and warming up by the fire.

See Machu Picchu Travel Guide