• Dublin and Belfast
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• Belfast
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Belfast

It is the birthplace of football legend George Best and the Titanic (at the Harland and Wolff shipyards), but Belfast is most famous for “the Troubles,” the conflict between two distinct communities: the Nationalists (principally Catholic) and the Unionists (principally Protestant). In some areas, you can still see murals depicting heroes from each side, the most famous of which is a memorial to hunger striker Bobby Sands. Between Nationalist and Unionist neighborhoods runs a peace line, a 20-foot-high wall separating the Falls Road from the Shankill Road. Apart from serving security purposes, the wall is fast becoming a tourist attraction for the dramatic manner in which it separates Protestant and Catholic backyards. Since the Good Friday Agreement, such differences have faded and tensions have eased as huge construction projects give concrete cause for optimism.

Yet it’s worth learning about the past while rumbling into the future, and while Belfast can easily be covered on foot, there’s no better way to orient yourself to all aspects of the city than a Black Taxi Tour. A car picks you up at your hotel, and the driver offers up a wealth of local history, culture, and trivia over the course  of a three-hour citywide tour. The tone is casual, but the drivers are well-schooled, each holding a Northern Ireland Tourist Guide Association “Blue Badge” certification. Thus informed, you are ready to experience the city’s sights.

If the weather is fine, rent a bike at McConvey Cycles at the Ormeau Bridge. It’s only $30 for a full day, and peddling through back streets gives you an intimate look at the city. A five-minute cycle or a 20-minute walk up Ormeau Road and west on Ormeau Avenue is The Gallery at Ormeau Baths, a 10,000-square-foot converted bathhouse exhibiting contemporary Northern Irish art. If you continue up Ormeau Avenue and pass the BBC Television Centre, you’ll hit the sprawling grounds of Belfast City Hall on Donegall Square, the dead center of town. Among many monuments circling the hall is the statue of Thane, a female figure gazing at sea nymphs as they lift a drowned sailor from the sea. The sculpture debuted in 1920 to commemorate those lost on the Titanic and faces the shipyards where the liner was built.

This area is a shopping hub of Belfast, with snazzy outposts of Molton Brown and Karen Millen, as well as local gems like women’s boutique Yoke and high-end men’s casual store The Bureau beside each other on Wellington Street. The Steensons jewelry store on Bedford Street is also worth a visit for its stunning one-of-a-kind pieces by goldsmiths Bill and Christina Steenson, as well as other artists.

A five-minute walk along the River Lagan leads to St. George’s Market, the oldest covered market in Ireland, serving local specialty foods every Friday and Saturday. Take some time here to wander and have a coffee. Nearby, the eponymous James Street South restaurant is run by Niall McKenna, formerly of Paul Rankin’s Roscoff; try the $25 lunch menu, especially the locally sourced Lough Neagh duck.

A short cycle or walk north from the market is the Cathedral Quarter, roughly bound to the east by Dunbar Link and the west by Royal Avenue. St. Anne’s Cathedral stands in the center, and with a large number of cultural enterprises and galleries, the area is an unspoiled (for now) incarnation of Dublin’s Temple Bar. Belfast Exposed is a contemporary photo gallery with a vast selection of books documenting the changing visual aesthetics of Belfast, from political murals to contemporary architecture. Check listings for the Black Box Arts Venue, just off Donegall Street. The music venue offers shows ranging from rock and jazz to classical, country, and Celtic.

On trendy, beautifully cobbled Hill Street, Nick’s Warehouse is known for its extensive wine list and terrific food. Forty dollars buys you a three-course dinner, but book early (the last seating is at 9:30pm). Down the lane on Commercial Court is the Duke of York, a long, narrow bar where Gerry Adams, president of Sinn Féin, tended bar in the 1960s. Find a quiet spot and sample the extensive whiskey menu—the place starts filling up around 10pm and is packed until closing.

There are a host of quality bars in this quarter. The John Hewitt on Donegall Street is renowned for a mixed crowd and choice live music, as is The Northern Whig. Those more inclined to look forward than back should consider staying in one of the stylish, modern hotels nearby. The Malmaison is a great option—a midrange chain with the sensibilities and service of a boutique. Nearby, the Ten Square Hotel is a smaller property with understated Asian decor. The Merchant Hotel is also excellent, with its opulent lobby and the beautifully appointed Ollie’s Club bar. At $400 a night for a deluxe room, it’s a smart splurge.

History buffs may consider staying on the other side of City Hall. The Europa hotel was the base for correspondents during the Troubles and has withstood nearly 40 bomb blasts throughout the years. Although the rooms may lack frills, it’s reasonably priced and you know it’s not going to fall down. While you’re in the area, take in the nearby Belfast Grand Opera House, a gorgeous Victorian-era theater presenting plays, ballet, music, and more. Across the way is what many consider the world’s finest drinking establishment, The Crown Bar. Composed of a series of small wooden booths facing a long red granite bar, this elegant Victorian palace serves Guinness and oysters (from $12); on chilly days, a bowl of vegetable soup and a hot port will set you back a mere $11.

If you’re feeling adventurous and you don’t speak with an English accent, it’s worth stopping at The Felons Club on the Falls Road. Membership at the club is reserved for Republicans who have served time for political crimes, but anyone can elbow up to the bar for a drink. Nearby, you’ll find a resting place for fallen IRA soldiers at Milltown Cemetery.

For a change of scenery, head south to the Queen’s University campus, filled with gorgeous Tudor-style buildings and home to the Naughton Gallery, a great repository of Irish and English paintings. Apart from the university itself, the Botanic Gardens are close by. The Palm House is one of the world’s earliest surviving examples of curvilinear glass and cast iron, and the arboretum and tropical garden are well worth a look. The nearby Malone Guesthouse is a great lower-cost option in a leafy, redbrick suburb, and one of the advantages to staying in a B&B like this one is the promise of a daily dose of the legendary Ulster fry, the heart-stopping combination of potato farl (a fried, potato-based flatbread), soda bread, sausage, bacon, and eggs.

Queen’s Quarter also has some great lunch options. Cayenne, a mod, minimalist eatery run by Northern Ireland’s best known chef, Paul Rankin, serves up dishes like crispy pork belly with “lime ’n’ chili lentils,” tobacco shallots, and sweet-potato fondant. On trendy Lisburn Road (home to many local designers’ boutiques) is Shu, offering a similarly contemporary take on classic Irish fare, like Clandeboye wood pigeon with roast carrots, parsnips, and chestnuts, and a roast-garlic mash. There’s also a host of student bars, the most compelling (and busiest) of which is The Fly on Lower Crescent.

Like Berlin and Dubrovnik before it, Belfast finds itself emerging from a turbulent historical period to offer all the comforts of modern travel. What it has over many other European cities—in addition to food, wine, and shopping—is a story to tell, and Belfast’s warm, friendly people are more than willing to share it with you.

GETTING TO BELFAST
Fly directly from New York to Belfast International on Continental Airlines, or fly with one stop from European hubs including Dublin, London, and Amsterdam. Factor in a seven-hour flight time from New York. Prices range from $700 to $1,300. Transfer from Belfast airport to the city center on bus 300 ($20). Call Translink at 44/28-9066-6630 for fare and schedule. Taxi fare to the city is around $50. Belfast taxis are cheaper and better operated than their Dublin counterparts, so it’s not a bad idea to use them to get around. Metro bus service offers unlimited one-day travel for $5.

WHERE TO STAY IN BELFAST

Ten Square Luxury Hotel (smart splurge)
10 Donegall Sq. South; 44/28-9024-1001; rooms from $340; tensquare.co.uk

The Europa Hotel
Great Victoria St.; 44/28-9027-1066; rooms from $290; hastingshotels.com

The Malmaison
34-38 Victoria St.; 44/28-9022-0200; rooms from $227; malmaison-belfast.com

The Merchant Hotel (value)
35-39 Waring St.; 44/28-9023-4888; rooms from $195; themerchanthotel.com

Malone Guesthouse
79 Malone Rd.; 44/28-9066-9565; rooms from $90; maloneguesthousebelfast.co.uk

WHERE TO EAT IN BELFAST

Cayenne
7 Ascot House, Shaftesbury Sq.; 44/28-9033-1532; entrées from $33; rankingroup.co.uk/cayenne.php

Shu
253 Lisburn Rd.; 44/28-9038-1655; entrées from $20; shu.killercontent.net

Nick’s Warehouse
35-39 Hill St.; 44/28-9043-9690; entrées from $18; nickswarehouse.co.uk

St. George’s Market
Lower May St.; 44/28-9032-0202; belfastcity.gov.uk/stgeorgesmarket

James Street South
21 James St. South; 44/28-9043-4310; entrées from $28; jamesstreetsouth.co.uk

The Northern Whig
2-10 Bridge St.; 44/28-9050-9888; plates from $4; thenorthernwhig.com

WHERE TO PARTY IN BELFAST

The Crown Bar
46 Great Victoria St.; 44/28-9027-9901; crownbar.com

The Felons Club
537 Andersontown Rd.; 44/28-9061-9875

The John Hewitt
51 Donegall St.; 44/28-9023-3768; thejohnhewitt.com

Duke of York
7-11 Commercial Ct.; 44/28-9024-1062

The Fly
5-6 Lower Crescent; 44/28-9050-9750; theflybar.com

WHAT TO EXPLORE IN BELFAST

Belfast Tours’ Black Taxi 
44/28-9064-2264; $50 (plus tip); belfasttours.com

The Botanic Gardens
Botanic Ave.; 44/28-9031-4762; belfastcity.gov.uk/parksandopenspaces

McConvey Cycles
183 Ormeau Rd.; 44/28-9033-0322; bikes from $30 a day; mcconveycycles.com

Belfast Exposed
23 Donegall St.; 44/28-9023-0965; free; belfastexposed.org

Black Box Arts Venue
18-22 Hill St.; check listings; 44/28-9024-4400; blackboxbelfast.com

WHERE TO SHOP IN BELFAST

Ormeau Baths Gallery
18a Ormeau Ave.; 44/28-9032-1402; ormeaubaths.co.uk

The Steensons
Bedford St.; 44/28-9024-8269; thesteensons.com

Yoke
5 Wellington St.; 44/28-9023-6900; yokeclothing.casobi.com

The Bureau
44 and 46-50 Howard St.; 44/28-9023-6100; thebureaubelfast.com

See Fort Lauderdale Travel Guide