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Now a World Capital, Dublin Still Has a Few Small-Town Secrets

Established as a Viking outpost in the second century, overseen by Oliver Cromwell in his time, and evolving into a focal point in the struggle for independence, Dublin has always been the proud urban reflection of a nation of tiny villages, rich folk heritage, and devotion to faith and learning. The recent boom recast Dublin as a fully European city rather than simply an Irish one, yet it remains a walking kind of town, with the best attractions concentrated between the Grand Canal to the south and the Royal Canal to the north. Dubliner Patrick Kavanagh once wrote, “O commemorate me where there is water, canal water, preferably, so stilly greeny at the heart of summer.” The banks of the Grand Canal, where Kavanagh’s memorial bench sits, is a great place to begin orienting yourself to the city.

The city sprawls, but it’s still possible to have a human-scale experience—and the best way to tour is on foot. Dublin’s best accommodations are located just north of the Grand Canal. The Mespil is simple, functional, and well priced, while around the corner, Dylan is a boutique boasting a trendy cocktail bar. Tucked away on a side street, the more modest Number 31 offers elegant, modern rooms in a converted Georgian town house. Before moving on, consider a detour to Locks, a great-value French bistro overlooking the canal (try the braised venison shank with root vegetables, port, and orange).

Look north again to the center of South Dublin, St. Stephen’s Green. The manicured Victorian park was presented to the public by Sir A.E. Guinness (of the well-known brewing family) in 1880. A few blocks northeast of the Green, you’ll find the National Gallery of Ireland, host not only to a terrific collection of Irish art (Jack Yeats, W.B.’s brother, is well represented) but also to gems of European art such as Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ.

Dining options abound in this area. Derry Clarke’s L’Ecrivain, arguably the finest restaurant in town, is five minutes away, serving hearty, imaginitive dishes like suckling pig with carrot-and-star-anise puree, port-and-apple tortellini, leeks, and apple sauce. You’ll find a clubbier atmosphere but food nearly as excellent (try the Thai baked sea bass) at three-story Bang Café. On the north side of the green, the recently restored, historic Shelbourne Hotel is home to the famous—and famously pricey—Horseshoe Bar, where Dublin’s power brokers convene. Have a pint and drink in the free atmosphere.

The area west of the Green, on and around Grafton Street, is Dublin’s most chic shopping district, and worth a gander even if only to window-shop. Two-hundred-eighty-year-old Avoca is famous for fine woven goods (Elsa Schiaparelli used its tweeds in her ’30s collections). Today the seven-story flagship sells sweaters, tweed suits, classy housewares, and the Anthology clothing line (similar to Anthropologie in the U.S.). Countless narrow side streets are packed with old-world cafés, second-hand bookshops, and young designers’ boutiques, stretching to Clarendon Street and the Powerscourt Centre. On the second floor of the Centre is the excellent Solomon Gallery, which specializes in contemporary Irish art.

Just to the west, you’ll find the Georges Street Arcade. The restored indoor market offers everything from top-notch tapas in The Market Bar to vintage jewelry and fortune tellers, all in a gorgeous Victorian setting. Around the corner on Fade Street is Declan O’Regan’s L’Gueuleton. This foodie favorite doesn’t accept reservations, so put your name down when it opens at 6pm. It’s worth a wait for perfect French fare like snail-and-Roquefort pithivier (pie) with herb salad. O’Regan also owns nearby Hogan’s, a pub with solid grub that’s open late on weekends. Of course, Dublin is packed with classy, classic pubs, each with amazing heritage and colorful regulars. The warren of streets between Grafton and Georges Streets offers some of the best, including Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Neary’s, and the South William (try their bacon-and-cabbage pie).

Alma mater to Swift, Wilde, and Beckett and host to the ancient Book of Kells (on display in the Old Library building), Trinity College, at the bottom of Grafton Street, is a hive of activity during the academic year. Yet in summer it’s serene, students lead campus tours, and you can even rent a dorm room. Or you can just lounge on the lawn in front of the Pavilion, watching toffs play cricket.

A two-minute stroll up Dame Street is the Temple Bar district, named after London’s famous city gate but also in honor of the Temples, an influential 17th-century family. The quarter contains copious old-world bars and shops in its medieval street plan, and has a reputation as a home to bawdy bachelor parties. There’s plenty of culture, too, at the Gallery of Photography and the adjoining Irish Film Institute, a two-screen cinema in a converted Georgian building showing arthouse releases and unearthed classics. Nearby Meeting House Square is a modern architectural gem that’s host to a farmers’ market specializing in organic and homemade foods on Saturdays.

Continuing north, you’ll cross the River Liffey on the historic Ha’penny Bridge or its modern counterpart, the Millennium Bridge. Most Dubliners believe you’re now entering another world. The heart of the Northside is O’Connell Street, where the 394-foot-tall Spire of Dublin, the city’s most daring architectural construction, can be found. The best theaters in Dublin live here, so head to the top of O’Connell Street and check listings for the Gate Theatre or visit Dublin’s most famous stage, the recently renovated Abbey Theatre. Before your show, book a table for the theater special at Chapter One on Parnell Square. Considering the place’s prestige, prices are reasonable, and they invite you back for coffee and brandy after the show. Close by, the James Joyce Centre presents exhibits, lectures, and walking tours related to the author, and every June 16 the Centre hosts Bloomsday, a celebration of Joyce’s life and works, especially his magnum opus, Ulysses.

A mile west along the Liffey is the Guinness Brewery, Dublin’s most popular (and crowded) attraction. Despite the crush, a tour is mandatory, especially for the breathtaking views in the Gravity Bar, perched high above the city. Almost adjacent to the brewery, the Irish Museum of Modern Art, in the 17th-century Royal Hospital Kilmainham, holds a stunning collection and exhibits new Irish and international artists. Across the river is Phoenix Park, containing the Irish president’s home, a population of deer, a zoo, and a papal memorial. Set aside an hour or two to wander the 1,750-acre grounds. One way to see more of the city is a stroll bayside on Sandymount Strand, a 20-minute walk east of downtown. Consider a final dinner at Domini Kemp’s excellent Itsa4, then adjourn to Ryan’s pub for a well-earned drink.

GETTING TO DUBLIN
Direct flights from Los Angeles, New York, Dallas, and more on Aer Lingus, Delta, Continental, and others. Expect a seven-hour flight from New York; 11 hours from Los Angeles; prices range from $600 to $1,200. Transfer to the city on the Aircoach ($20 roundtrip). Avoid taking a cab as fares can run to $160. In the city, take the bus, the LUAS tram, or the DART trains ($3 single fare).

WHERE TO STAY IN DUBLIN

The Shelbourne Hotel (smart splurge)
27 St. Stephen’s Green; 353/1-663-4500; rooms from $380; theshelbourne.ie

Dylan
Baggot St.; 353/1-660-3000; rooms from $325; dylan.ie

The Mespil Hotel
Mespil Rd.; 353/1-488-4600; rooms from $155; mespilhotel.ie

Number 31 (value)
31 Leeson Close; 353/1-676-5011; rooms from $140; number31.ie

Trinity College Rooms
353/1-896-1177 ext. 2612; rooms from $100; tcd.ie

WHERE TO EAT IN DUBLIN

Locks
1 Windsor Terrace; 353/1-454-3391; entrées from $30; locksrestaurant.ie

L’Ecrivain
109a Lower Baggot St.; 353/1-661-1919; entrées from $65; lecrivain.com

Bang Café
11 Merrion Row; 353/1-676-0898; entrées from $20; bangrestaurant.com

Itsa4
6a Sandymount Green; 353/1-219-4676; entrées from $27; itsabagel.com/itsa4

The Market Bar
Fade St.; 353/1-613-9094; plates from $12; marketbar.ie

L’Gueuleton
1 Fade St.; 353/1-675-3708; entrées from $22

Chapter One
18-19 Parnell Sq.; 353/1-873-2266; entrées from $45; chapteronerestaurant.com

WHERE TO PARTY IN DUBLIN

The Horseshoe Bar
The Shelbourne Hotel, 27 St. Stephen’s Green; 353/1-663-4500; theshelbourne.ie

Hogan’s
35 S. Great Georges St.; 353/1-677-5904

Grogan’s
15 S. William St.; 353/1-677-9320

Peter’s Pub
1 Johnson Pl.; 353/1-677-8588

Neary’s
1 Chatham St.; 353/1-677-7371

South William
52 S. William St.; 353/1-672-5946; southwilliam.ie

The Gravity Bar
St. James’s Gate; 353/1-408-4800; guinness-storehouse    .com

Ryan’s
Sandymount Green; 353/1-269-1612

WHERE TO EXPLORE IN DUBLIN

Trinity College Walking Tours
Tours meet at front gate entrance from April to October daily starting at 10:15am; tcd.ie/info/visitors

Irish Film Institute
6 Eustace St.; 353/1-679-5744; irishfilm.ie

The Gate Theatre
Cavendish Row, Parnell Sq.; 353/1-874-4045; tickets from $36; gate-theatre.ie

The Abbey Theatre
26 Lower Abbey St.; 01/878-7222 ; tickets from $30; abbeytheatre.ie

James Joyce Centre
35 N. Great Georges St.; 353/1-878-8547; admission $7; jamesjoyce.ie

Guinness Brewery
St. James’s Gate; 353/1-408-4800; tours $20; guinness-storehouse.com

Irish Museum of Modern Art
Military Rd.; 353/1-612-9900; free; modernart.ie

National Gallery of Ireland
Merrion Sq. West; 353/1-661-5133; free; nationalgallery.ie

WHERE TO SHOP IN DUBLIN

Avoca
11-13 Suffolk St.; 353/1-677-4215; avoca.ie

The Solomon Gallery
Powerscourt Centre; 353/1-679-4237; solomongallery.com

Gallery of Photography
Meeting House Sq.; 353/1-671-4654; galleryofphotography.ie

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