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Restaurants

Tahoe's restaurant scene only recently branched out from predominantly old-fashioned lakefront bistros, diners, and casino gourmet rooms where the preferred greens were C-notes. More than 100 restaurants circle the lake, but fortunately the often-scintillating vistas aren't the only reason to dine there: the increasingly sophisticated smorgasbord offers classic bistro French, Italian, Indian, Mexican, Thai, Japanese, and fresh seasonal New California cuisine. Of course, there are plenty of family-friendly burger and pizza joints, as well as affordable bar bites at several fancier eateries. Foodies will particularly love Truckee (the most creative spots per capita), though the best buys are generally around Incline Village and South Lake Tahoe. Here's a small taste of centrally located possibilities (we haven't even listed big-ticket stunners in hotels like PlumpJack Café in Squaw Valley Inn, Echo in the Embassy Suites, and Graham's in the Christy Lodge).

Truckee
On the expensive end of things is Moody's Bistro & Lounge (10007 Bridge St.; 530/587-8688; www.moodysbistro.com), one part Art Deco, one part 1950s Baghdad-by-the-Bay beat cool, and several parts superb-in-any-era food, courtesy of co-owner/chef Mark Estee's daily-changing contemporary California dishes emphasizing fresh, seasonal, local ingredients bursting with flavor. We love the savvy, mostly-California wine list (go Tuesday when every bottle is half price all day, or Monday, when the appetizers get the same discount). Just steps from Northstar's slopes, Timbercreek (Hwy. 267 at Northstar Dr.; 530/562-2250; www.northstarattahoe.com) practices true environmental stewardship with a totally organic menu of succulent hormone- and antibiotic-free meats and seafood caught and farmed in environmentally friendly ways; chef Christopher Banovich titillates taste buds with pan-seared diver scallops with lavender beurre blanc, applewood-smoked buffalo tenderloin, and Kahlua-toffee cheesecake; look for special winemaker dinners. Dragonfly (10118 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee; 530/587-0557; www.dragonflycuisine.com) showcases Billy McCullough's "Cal-Asian" fare, an eclectic blend of fresh California produce, meat, game, poultry, and seafood enhanced by traditional French cooking principles using the flavors and traditions of Thailand, Japan, China, Malaysia, India, and Vietnam. On the budget front, OB's Pub & Restaurant (10046 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee; 530/587-4164; www.obstruckee.com) is a family fave (super kids' menu, patient waitstaff), but also hops for adults with microbrews, Thursday karaoke cocktail parties, joyous Happy Hour specials, homey historic ambience, terrific lunches (hefty heifer burgers), and occasional live bands.

Tahoe City/Tahoe Vista
Mid-range winner Sol y Lago (760 North Lake Blvd., Boatworks Mall, Tahoe City; 530/583-0358; www.solylago.com) appropriately means "sun and lake" in Spanish – and every seat boasts a stunning panoramic lake view. Co-owner/chef Johnny Alamilla (of San Francisco's acclaimed Alma) dubs his food "Sierra Latino," culling from various mountainous Latin ingredients, flavors, and cultures; standouts include pan-seared striped bass with melted Peruvian onions; butternut-squash empanadas; and an inspired chocolate jalapeño gelato. Emulating the sleek lines of 1920s lake cruisers, the decor of Wild Goose (7320 North Lake Blvd., Tahoe Vista; 530/546-3640; www.wildgoosetahoe.com) similarly reflects the environment (materials were primarily locally sourced and, whenever possible, recycled or sustainably procured). Chef David Lutz's seasonal contemporary American menu continues the theme, using mostly organic ingredients; we love the adventuresome wine list, food-friendly wine flights, and soaring wine-pairing tasting menus.

Incline Village/Crystal Bay
Lovely Mirabelle (290 Kingsbury Grade; 775/586-1007; www.mirabelletahoe.com), an expensive spot that transports a sunny French country inn to Tahoe courtesy of Alsatian-born owner/chef Camille Schwartz, features a light, almost ethereal décor that matches the food (especially gossamer sauces and soufflés). Moderate delight Soule Domain (9983 Cove Ave.; 530/546-7529; www.souledomain.com) might be Tahoe's most romantic eatery: a cozy 1935 lakefront log cabin where candlelight flickers in the tiny paned windows. Owner/Chef Charlie Soule's soulfully inventive hybrid French-American cuisine is tinged with Pacific Rim influences and ingredients (witness sea scallops poached in champagne with kiwi-mango cream sauce). Budget bet Hacienda de la Sierra (931 Tahoe Blvd., Incline Village; 775/831-8300; www.haciendadelasierra.com) always corrals "best of" votes in local publications – Best Mexican, Happy Hour, Drinks (Margaritas to Martinis), Inexpensive Food – and rightfully so. Lots of TVs and wooden parrots adorn the walls and you can chow down on great enchiladas, chimis, nachos, natch, and macho (even frou frou fruit-flavored) margaritas.

South Lake Tahoe/Stateline
A moderate choice right off Heavenly's gondola is Kalani's (1001 Heavenly Village Way #26, South Lake Tahoe; 530/544-6100; www.kalanis.com), whose Pacific Rim fusion menu boldly blends Hawaiian regional cooking with Asian and European spices and sauces (think Kahlua-smoked pork quesadilla with mango citrus salsa and Asian guacamole) in a cool contemporary space of curved woods, leather accents and metallic mobiles. Budget buy Passaretti's (1181 Emerald Bay Rd., South Lake Tahoe; 530/541-3433; www.passarettis.com) defines Mamma Mia Italian: it's all garlic and warmth and guaranteed to satisfy with Italy's greatest hits (veal saltimbocca, chicken parmigiana, stuffed eggplant); you'll also find an extensive kids' menu, great lunch specials, and amazing throwback prices.