Spotlight

Las Vegas Reinvents Itself Again

Attractions

Whatever your itinerary for Vegas is, it's important to remember that this city lets you create your preferred level of luxury, and because it's ever-changing, it's important to check out the new Vegas as well as pay homage to the old Vegas. Gloria Estefan summed it up nicely for me once: "I don't gamble at all, but I love Las Vegas because it's always, always changing. In San Francisco, they may open new restaurants. In New York, there's a new show on Broadway that everyone's got to see. Otherwise those places stay pretty much the same. But Vegas? Oh my God, it's never the same twice."

Scenic Wonders
While Vegas changes all the time, natural wonders are reassuringly constant. Don't miss out on nearby snow-capped mountains, sensational red rock canyons, and luxury houseboats on a vast blue (albeit man-made) lake. There's an entire world of spectacular outdoor sights that are just as thrilling as anything inside the city limits and act as the perfect antidote to the Strip's stimuli, offering a sublime peace and quiet that visitors don't often associate with the Silver State.

"I get away from the Strip for at least one day of every trip," says Amy Gershon, an L.A.-based casting agent who comes to town twice a year and rents a convertible from DreamCarRentals.com for $50 per day. "I always feel like I'm indulging in Vegas's best-kept secret."

If you have the time, the Grand Canyon is only 5 hours away (helicopter tours take half the time; see Smart Splurges) and worth the visit. But the most popular hiking destination, Red Rock Canyon (Drive 15 miles west from the Strip on Charleston Blvd.; 702/515-5367; $5/car; redrockcanyonlv.org), is about 25 miles west of the city and, in season, bustles with tourists because of its proximity to the Strip. Sixty miles northeast of the city (and far less crowded) is the Valley of Fire State Park (Drive north on Interstate 15, exit at US 169 and go 10 miles east. 702/397-2088; $6/car; parks.nv.gov/vf.htm). Both parks make for great climbing, picnicking, and photography, with huge, hilly expanses of public land dotted with cacti and flanked by looming beet-red, 150-million-year-old rock formations. And both have significant claims to Native American history, with hieroglyphs found on the rocks. Listen closely for coyote howls and watch roadrunners hotfoot it across the fiery sand, and you'll see why so many visitors fall in love with this area. Be sure to grab lunch at Capriotti's Sandwich Shop (324 W. Sahara Ave.; 702/474-0229; www.capriottis.com); neither park has any place nearby to dine.

About a half hour southeast of Vegas you'll find the nation's largest man-made body of water, Lake Mead, which is ideal for swimming, waterskiing, and boating. Many people rent houseboats for a day or weekend to explore the 550 miles of shoreline created when the Hoover Dam blocked the Colorado River. Among the vendors worth considering is Callville Bay Resort & Marina (800/255-5561), where you can rent a comfortable 44-foot patio pontoon for $450 a day or a bells-and-whistles, 4-bedroom, 70-foot houseboat complete with a spacious kitchen and 36-inch TV for three days at $3,595.

As surprising as all that water is to many people, nothing amazes Vegas-goers more than discovering there's a 12,000-foot mountain capped with snow for more than half the year just 45 minutes away from the hot city. Mount Charleston has long been a well-kept secret from tourists and is set amid a 316,000-acre alpine wonderland in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest's Spring Mountain Recreation Area. There are quaint cabins, ski slopes, and areas for horseback riding; several tour operators offer hikes or drives through the area, which is typically 30 degrees cooler than the swelter of the Strip. The Mount Charleston Lodge (Drive north on US 95, left on Kyle Canyon Rd.; 800/955-1314; www.mtcharlestonlodge.com) offers stellar mountain views; their rustic cabins are available for overnight stays starting from $145.

Museums
For cultural endeavors, Vegas offers a few quirky off-the-Strip "museums" that are unquestionably entertaining, namely The Liberace (1775 E. Tropicana Ave.; 702/798-5595; $12.50; www.liberace.com), Neon, and Atomic Testing (755 E. Flamingo Rd.; 702/794-5151; $7; www.atomictestingmuseum.org) museums, which are all by turns offbeat and historic and recall the kitsch of early Vegas, now being replaced by luxury. However, the Las Vegas Art Museum (9600 W. Sahara Ave; 702/360-8000; $6; www.lasvegasartmuseum.org) has a deal with the Smithsonian and takes its borrowed collections very seriously. This is best evidenced by Vegas's burgeoning arts scene which can be witnessed on First Fridays (702/384-0092; www.firstfriday-lasvegas.org)– monthly 4-hour art crawls that visit galleries, restaurants, thrift shops, and other offbeat venues.

Spas
After indulging in the vices of the Strip and breaking a sweat hiking the desert canyons, Vegas visitors are liable to be left feeling in need of another vacation. Checking into one of the city's world-class spas is the best way to add some relaxation to what can be a taxing stay. The new Spa at Wynn Las Vegas and revamped Spa Bellagio offer decadent treatments with equally decadent price tags. Canyon Ranch SpaClub (Venetian; 877/220-2688) brings a signature dedication to health and wellness to The Venetian at reasonable prices, offering services like collagen boost facials and neuromuscular massages. But the best value Vegas has to offer is the Bathhouse (THEhotel at Mandalay Bay; 877/632-9636) at Mandalay Bay's THEhotel. For prices starting at $75, the Bathhouse boasts personalized treatments, including a create-your-own body wrap and their Scents-of-You massage, which uses aromatherapy oil blended specifically designed for each guest.

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