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Nightlife

Just as the food scene has been transformed in recent years, so too have the entertainment and nightclub scenes. The Canadian acrobatic troupe Cirque du Soleil now has five ongoing productions in Vegas. One of the brilliant things about most Cirque productions is that their custom-built theaters are designed so that great views are available even to folks in the inexpensive seats, which start at $76 for Love and Ká and $66 for Mystère (Treasure Island, 3300 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; www.treasureisland.com; 702/894-7722). The first Cirque offering, Treasure Island's Mystère, is timeless, brilliant, and the show to see if you can only see one.

As omnipresent as Cirque seems, it's not the only act in town. Céline Dion, Elton John, Toni Braxton, Mamma Mia!, and Rita Rudner all draw big crowds, but they're hardly worth the price compared to the spectacle you'll see at Cirque. Opened in summer 2006 and already promising to reinvent the Vegas theater experience, the Venetian's new Phantom: The Las Vegas Spectacular (3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; www.phantomlasvegas.com; 866/641-7469), redesigned under Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber's watchful eye and staged in a $40-million custom-built theater in which the signature crashing chandelier swings within a few terrifying feet of the audience's heads, expects a long run and is Vegas at its best – glitzy, brazen, and at times ostentatious, but an over-the-top guilty pleasure found nowhere else on earth.

Shows in Vegas can run upwards of $250 per ticket. Many visitors flock to day-of discount ticket kiosks like TKTS and Tix4Tonight, hoping to save money on big-name shows, but are disappointed with the selections, which often feature lesser-known magicians and impersonators. Those in the know head to the Vegas section of BroadwayBox.com for discounts: At press time Ká and Mystère had 2-month advance discount rates, as well as buy-one-get-one-free specials and many competitive room- and show-package rates. In keeping with the go-go pace of things, no show in Vegas lasts longer than 90 minutes or even has an intermission – except for the ABBA-inspired Mamma Mia!, which runs for 110 minutes.

After a show, head to one of the city's elaborate nightclubs. Bottle service can run well-heeled patrons into the thousands, but you can partake in the glitz and glamour of these places for far less. Expect to pay $20 or more to get in and around $10 a drink at mega-clubs like the four-leveled old standby Studio 54, and newer velvet-roped Pure, Playboy Club, and Rain (Palms; 702/942-7777), favorites of Jessica Simpson and Paris Hilton. But it's well worth the price to enter a stylish lounge like Tabú (MGM Grand; 702/891-7183; www.tabulv.com) at MGM Grand, where the terrace's unique setting attracts A-list celebs and offers outstanding views of all the neon and street bustle below. For a more local experience, try the Double Down Saloon (4640 Paradise Rd.; 702/791-5775; www.doubledownsaloon.com) – located on Paradise Road – where the city's alt- rock scenesters catch emerging bands hoping to emulate the success of Vegas-bred acts like Panic! At the Disco and the Killers.

Locals also flock to the Alain Ducasse restaurant/bar/lounge Mix (THEhotel at Mandalay Bay; 702/632-7777) atop the Mandalay Bay (free before 10pm). The swank lounge offers a great combination of locals and visitors and some of the finest vistas of the Strip, including a few great views from the restroom windows.

See Las Vegas Travel Guide