Spotlight

Las Vegas Reinvents Itself Again Restaurants

It's no secret that Vegas's cuisine has come a long way from its low-cost buffet days. The last few years saw it win over critics and foodies alike as it transformed itself into an epicurean mecca, with more distinguished dining options and master sommeliers than anywhere else on earth. The newest generation of celebrity chefs has recently set up shop in Vegas, most notably Thomas Keller (Bouchon), Guy Savoy (Restaurant Guy Savoy), and "Chef of the Century" Joël Robuchon. Each offers sublime, impeccably crafted dishes like lightly grilled blue lobster with star anise (Guy Savoy), sautéed salmon with melted leeks (Bouchon), and expensive tasting menus peppered with extravagances like osetra caviar, truffle oil, and Kobe beef topping out at $350 per person (at Joël Robuchon at the Mansion). An underrated new spot is Wynn's handsomely decorated Alex (Wynn Las Vegas; 702/770-7000), which cooks up tender wild turbot with cauliflower purée and mouthwatering venison chops leafed with crimson gold apples.

Some older standby favorites include Charlie Palmer's Aureole (Mandalay Bay; 702/632-7777), where the four-story, 10,000-bottle wine tower looms over plates of black mission fig and Roquefort tarts and organic roasted chickens in truffled jus. For brunch it's hard to beat the moules frites and build-your-own Bloody Mary bar at Mon Ami Gabi (Paris Las Vegas; 702/944-4224) at Paris, with its French-sidewalk-café motif and view of Bellagio's fountains across the street.

As Vegas's high-end cuisine offerings have skyrocketed, the city's casual offerings have really come into their own, with many creative options and great value at mid-range levels. This is evidenced at MGM's 'wichcraft (MGM Grand; 702/891-1111), owned by Tom Colicchio of Bravo's Top Chef, where they upgrade traditional sandwich fare. Meatloaf comes topped with cheddar, bacon, and tomato relish; grilled cheese gets laced with black trumpet mushrooms and white truffle fondue. It's also worth sampling Mandalay Bay's Burger Bar (Mandalay Bay; 702/632-9364), which offers six types of patties (including Colorado lamb and Kobe beef) and a menu of over 50 items to elevate your burger, including unusual high-ticket toppings like seared lobster tail, pickled green tomato, and prosciutto.

The Strip is a bit deficient when it comes to truly stellar ethnic food, but the city at large redeems. Firefly (3900 Paradise Rd.; 702/369-3971), a Spanish tapas joint about a mile from the Strip, is favored by hip, sangria-sipping locals under 40, who nibble on dishes like artichoke toast and bacon-wrapped stuffed dates, each under $10. Flavorful Mexican food can be found at Lindo Michoacan (2655 E. Desert Inn Rd.; 702/735-6828), where guacamole is made tableside and dishes like nopalitos (Mexican cactus) and mole poblano remain menu standouts. The unassuming old standby called Lotus of Siam (Commercial Center, 953 E. Sahara Ave.; 702/735-3033), hidden in a strip mall 4 miles away, is considered by Gourmet magazine to offer some of the nation's best Thai food; dishes like the crispy mussel omelet and drunken noodle seafood are consistent crowd pleasers and a real payoff for foodies looking for more authentic fare.

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