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Nightlife

If you like to go out and stay out late, Madrid might be the closest you'll ever get to nightlife nirvana. With over 4000 places to drink, not to mention dozens of clubs and flamenco spots, Spain's capital is easily one of Europe's leading cities for fabulous nightlife. The Spanish are known for their love of la marcha – a term used frequently in Spain to describe nocturnal fun and partying – so get ready for some serious action: Once the clock strikes midnight, the city transforms into one giant fiesta. For current nightlife hotspots and cultural happenings, pick up the weekly entertainment guide Guía del Ocio (Spanish only; www.guiadelocio.com) or the monthly InMadrid (English; www.in-madrid.com).

Madrid's different barrios each possess their own personality and style after dark. If you're looking for cool trendy hangouts, head to leafy La Latina or the gay enclave of Chueca. To find Madrid as seen in the films of Oscar-winning director Pedro Almodóvar, alternative Malasaña is the place to go – it gave rise to the movers and shakers of Movida Madrileña, an art and lifestyle movement of the late 1970s and early 1980s after the collapse of Franco's dictatorship. To brush shoulders with Madrid's rich and beautiful, dress up and head to stylish Salamanca. If you're visiting during warm-weather days, make sure to partake in Madrileños' favorite evening pastime – whiling the evening away with a drink on an outside café or bar terrazza.

No matter where your evenings take you, three renowned cocktail bars, all within a stone's throw of each another, are an absolute must. Museo Chicote (Gran Vía 12; 091/532-6737; www.museo-chicote.com) the pioneer of them all, is an Art Deco classic that's hosted luminaries like Hemingway, Bette Davis, and Frank Sinatra since its 1931 opening. At Del Diego (Calle de la Reina 12; 091/523-3106), you can enjoy over 50 varieties of terrific cocktails, including their coveted dry martinis, in an intimate wood-and-steel interior. For a quieter retreat, head to El Cock (Calle de la Reina 16; 091/532-2826), a cozy spot whose name is intended to evoke a private English club.

A visit to Madrid wouldn't be complete without a night in one of its flamenco clubs – also known as tablaos. The most reliable spot to experience the fiery music and dance from the south of Spain is Casa Patas (Calle Cañizares 10; 091/369-0496; www.casapatas.com), an institution that features big-name performers six nights a week. If you want to try dancing, playing, or singing flamenco yourself, the Flamenco Conservatory (Calle de Cañizares 10; 091/429-8471; www.conservatorioflamenco.org) offers classes. Younger crowds and up-and-coming performers descend on the intimate Las Carboneras (Plaza del Conde de Miranda 1; 091/542-8677; www.tablaolascarboneras.com), a well-rated tablao with two performances six nights a week.

If clubbing is your idea of fun, Madrid has two classics: Pacha (Calle Barceló 11; 091/447-0128; www.pacha-madrid.com), where house and techno pump on weekend nights inside an old theater and the visually stunning Palacio Gaviria (Calle Arenal 9; 091/526-6069; www.palaciogaviria.com), inside an Italianate palace with lots of nooks and crannies and DJs spinning everything from house to salsa.

For a different kid of vibe, jazz lovers should beeline for Café Central (Plaza del Angel 10; 091/369-4143; www.cafecentralmadrid.com), an excellent club that's still going strong after 20 years. When the night is over, finish it off in typical Madrileño tradition: with delightfully decadent chocolate con churros (thick hot chocolate with deep-fried pastry) at Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo de San Ginés, entrance at Calle Arenal 11; 091/365-6546) – it closes at 7am.