Restaurants
Maui's new generation of restaurants take pride in using fresh
island ingredients, like opakapaka (pink snapper) and ono, a relative of
mackerel. Exotic tropical fruit like carambola, star fruit, and papaya
exemplify the bounty that many tourists have come to expect from the islands.
But
Maui is also famous for its native onions
and locally raised beef, which are some of the finest tasting (and most
overlooked) in the world. You'll generally find a fun blend of American, Asian,
and Polynesian influences on one menu, or even in one dish. The Maui phone book
boasts nearly 40 pages of restaurants for a population of 140,000, with most
menus leaning towards
Pacific Rim fusion. I
always encourage first-time visitors to sample poke (a mixture of raw fish,
seaweed, and roasted nuts) and poi (mashed taro root), two
traditional Hawaiian dishes worth trying. Both are acquired tastes that don't
jive with everyone. Macadamia pie however, is a great way for anyone to end a
meal.
Many
visitors, too busy beaching, simply settle for the food at their hotels, and
luckily most resorts have great (if pricey) restaurants. In general,
restaurants on
Maui are more expensive than on
the mainland. One resort standout is the Humuhumunukunukuapua'a
Restaurant (named after a local fish) at the Grand Wailea Resort (3850 Alanui Drive Wailea; 800/888-6100; www.grandwailea.com), where excellent fresh seafood is served in thatched huts built over a seaside lagoon – a
very Hawaiian experience and worth the price. Another local hideaway attached
to lodging is the Mama's Fish House (799 Poho Pl., Pa'ia;
808/579-8488; www.mamasfishhouse.com) at the inn by the same name. It is set on
its own beach on the
North
Shore, and a favorite of
Hollywood
celebs who come here to dine on the macadamia nut crab cakes and ono and ahi
fish caught by the chef himself.
Believe it
or not, some of the best eating (and biggest culinary value) in
Maui is hidden in the towns of Wailuku and Kahului,
back by the airport, which is chock full of affordable lunch spots. Jennifer
Nguyen's A Saigon Café (1792 Main St.
Wailuki; 808/243-9560) in Wailuku refuses to put up any signage (call for
directions), but it's quite a find. I popped in one day and sat among local
old-timers eating Vietnamese "burritos" and other savory specialties steaming
in clay rice pots. The Wow-Wee Maui Kava
Bar (333 Dairy Rd.,
Kahului; 808/250-6004; www.kavamaui.com), camouflaged in a bland strip mall in
Kahului, serves up incredibly fresh sushi and salads, as well as the
traditional (and mildly narcotic) kava beverage. Polynesians have been imbibing
the beverage made from root of the kava shrub for over 3,000 years. It's an
acquired taste – very, very, earthy – but it mellowed me out more than I thought
possible.
In Kapalua,
the Pineapple Grill (200 Kapalua Dr.,
Kapalua; 808/669-9600; www.pineapplekapalua.com) overlooks lovely golf greens
and serves local dishes like lobster coconut Thai bisque and furikake-crusted
calamari. Lahaina's Mala (1307 Front St.,
Lahaina; 808/667-9394; www.malaoceantavern.com) has spectacular oceanfront
views and light Mediterranean-influenced cuisine like
Big
Island
alii mushrooms and beet and Kula goat cheese salad with fennel vinaigrette.
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