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Restaurants

Eating out in Montréal is an art to be savored. Locals dine late, lingering over crème caramel and bottles of Beaujolais in candlelit bistros. The biggest problem is how to choose from the over 5000 restaurants that serve everything from haute French cuisine to smoked meat on rye. Bring-your-own-wine restos are the perfect way to dine out without dropping big bucks but whatever your budget, there's something to fit the bill. We've covered our top picks in every price range.

On the expensive end, the crème de la crème is Toqué! (900 Place Jean-Paul Riopelle; 514/499-2084; www.restaurant-toque.com), where a minimalist decor provides the perfect backdrop for chef Normand Laprise's artfully created dishes made of market-fresh Québec products; give in to the seven-course tasting menu and be sure to reserve well in an advance. A sense of secrecy and exclusivity prevails at Le Club Chasse et Pêche (423 rue St-Claude; 514/861-1112; www.leclubchasseetpeche.com) – the hunting and fishing club – which serves up roast bison, braised venison and seared scallops in a dark setting worthy of a private men's club; the menu changes frequently, but braised suckling pig risotto with foie gras is a mainstay. Another great find, the intimate Joe Beef (2491 rue Notre-Dame O; 514/935-6504), is a tiny 25-seat eatery high on taste but low on pretention; its delectable daily-changing menu usually features freshly shucked oysters, lobster spaghetti, and succulent sirloin for two.

When it comes to mid-range restaurants, Montréal proves you don't have to break the bank to enjoy fine dining. You'll feel like you've stepped into an authentic 1940s Parisian bistro at L'Express (3927 rue St-Denis; 514/845-5333); it's always packed and the service can be perfunctory, but dishes like tender octopus with lentils, traditional steak frites, and duck confit delight the palate. For a bolder, more inventive approach to French fare, try Leméac (1045 av Laurier O; 514/270-0999; www.restaurantlemeac.com), where locals savor escargot portobella ragout and braised short rib in a setting that's much less formal than its crisp white-tablecloth setting suggests (the late-night prix-fixe menu, available as of 10pm for C$22, is exceptionally good value). You'll also find two good bets in Old Montréal: Holder (407 rue McGill; 514/849-0333; www.restaurantholder.com) caters to a younger, more boisterous crowd in an expansive Old Montréal building; while not the best choice for a romantic dinner, it's a sure bet for French standards like Niçoise salad and beef tartare. Nearby Garde-Manger (408 rue St-François-Xavier; 514/678-5044) occupies a diminutive stone-and-wood building and serves sumptuous seafood platters to a trendy clientele below a massive vintage candelabra.

If cheap eats are in order, you won't go hungry here, either. Everyone goes to Schwartz's (3895 boul St-Laurent; 514/842-4813; www.schwartzsdeli.com) where the smoked meat never disappoints, but equally authentic – and certainly more off the beaten path – is Wilensky's (34 rue Fairmount O; Mon-Fri 9am-4pm; 514/271-0247; cash only), whose decor hasn't changed much since 1932; their famous special, a grilled salami and bologna sandwich on a mustard-smeared bun paired with an authentic fountain cherry coke, costs under $5 – and no tips are allowed. Right near McGill University, quaint and cozy Amelios (201 rue Milton; 514/845-8396; www.ameliospizza.com) a popular bring-your-own-wine place, serves up heaping bowls of home-made pasta and delicious pizza all for under $10.

No trip to Montréal is complete without a steamy or a toasté and poutine – a steamed or toasted hotdog and french fries covered in gravy and cheese. La Belle Province (1216 rue Peel; 514/878-8020) is a chain of greasy spoons that has mastered the art: hotdogs come all-dressed (mustard, relish, onions and coleslaw) and the poutine is made with cheese curd – nothing fancy but it's the real deal for only a few bucks. Another Montréal mainstay, bagels, also makes an affordable snack: head to Fairmount Bagel (74 rue Fairmount O; 514/272-0667; www.fairmountbagel.com) to watch them being rolled by hand and baked in a wood-fired oven, and walk out with a dozen; poppyseed and sesame are the most popular.

See Montreal Travel Guide