Day Trips
Venturing further along the French Riviera – generally cited as the 75 miles of Mediterranean-bordered shores that plunge southwest from the Italian border, passing by several illustrious tourist havens before ultimately winding down near the beach resort of Cannes – is a natural extension to your time in Nice. The Côte d’Azur is dotted with a contrasting yet cohesive blend of glamorous coastal resorts and sleepy villages, each with its own unique connection to the Mediterranean. Fully outlining the treasures of the Riviera could easily fill up an entire guidebook series, but we’ve rounded up the most jaw-dropping highlights to get you started. You’ll definitely want to rent a car to get around – just be sure to keep in mind that coastal thoroughfares are prone to extensive congestion, especially during the summer high season, so always factor in plenty of extra travel time. If you prefer to explore with somebody else behind the wheel, TER (Regional Express Trains) trains run along the coast (see Getting There) and public buses run several routes through the RCA (Rapides Cote D’Azur) lines; visit www.rca.tm.fr for more information.
Kick off your Riviera tour by cruising the Corniches, the collective name of three adjacent roads running from Nice to the Italian frontier town of Menton (the ideal way to reach points east of Nice). These sexy, serpentine roadways are carved right into the coastal cliffs and reveal unforgettable vistas of the Mediterranean Sea and its settlements. The lower passageway, the Basse Corniche, stretches for 20 miles, passing through St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and offering access to Monte Carlo. The middle road, the Moyenne Corniche, winds through tunnels and mountains for 19 miles and takes you into the heart of Eze. The Grande Corniche is the highest of the three roadways and affords the most panoramic overlooks on its 20-mile expanse.
Following the Basse Corniche east of Nice for about five miles, the first stop of interest is the Cap Ferrat peninsula. Enamored by the promontory’s relative quiet, remarkable scenery, and flourishing vegetation, many a millionaire has parked their yacht in the harbor and taken up residence in the elaborate villas. Packed with bars, restaurants, and hotels, St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (Tourism Office at 59 Ave Denis Semeria; 04-93-76-08-90; www.ville-saint-jean-cap-ferrat.fr) is the most animated of the towns and the setting for the exceptional Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (July-Aug daily 10am-7pm, Sept-June daily 10am-6pm, mid-Nov-early Jan Mon-Fri 2-6pm; 04-93-01-33-09; 9.5€; www.villa-ephrussi.com). Built in the early 20th century for Baroness Ephrussi, a wealthy woman with an insatiable taste for the arts, the palatial home is now a museum for her eclectic collection, with nine gorgeous outdoor gardens.
Continue east on the Basse Corniche and you’ll reach the independent principality of Monaco (10 miles northeast of Nice; Tourism Office at 2A blvd des Moulins; www.visitmonaco.com), famed for its royal governance, spotless streets, and tax haven status. Kick off your visit by taking in the beautiful Prince’s Palace of Monaco (June-Sept daily 9.30am-6pm, Oct 10am-5pm; 6€; www.palais.mc) and perusing the nearby high-end shops. Once the sun goes down, linger within Monte Carlo – the principality’s most esteemed quarter – and indulge your James Bond fantasy at the Monte Carlo Casino (Place du Casino; www.casinomontecarlo.com), an opulent example of 19th-century architecture designed by Charles Garnier (architect of the Opéra Garnier in Paris). Doors open midday, though many of the private gaming rooms (where gentlemen must sport a jacket and tie after 10pm) are closed until 4pm.
Head east from Nice on the Moyenne Corniche to reach one of our favorite Riviera stops, Eze (6 miles northeast of Nice; Tourism Office at Place du Général de Gaulle; 04-93-41-26-00; www.eze-riviera.com), a medieval hamlet of weathered stone buildings and ramparts that cling to a majestic cliff 1,400 feet above sea level. This quaint village is so harmoniously etched into its setting that sea, sky, and earth appear to seamlessly merge. Meander along the stone pathways and discover exotic gardens, charming restaurants, and local artisans’ workshops.
Several towns west of Nice are also worth exploring. Follow the soft coastal curve of Nice’s Baie des Anges westward and you’ll stumble upon one of the Côte d’Azur’s most captivating small towns: Antibes (13 miles southwest of Nice; Tourism Office at 11 place du Général de Gaulle; 04-97-23-11-11; www.antibesjuanlespins.com) has managed to escape the superficial glitz and overdevelopment that plague many other Riviera towns, maintaining the charm and tranquility of a small fishing village while still housing its fair share of millionaires. Above the old port presides Château Grimaldi, once a residence for the Antibes’ royals and today the home of the Musée Picasso (closed for renovations through early 2008; 04-92-90-54-20), world-renowned for its staggering collection which counts among its many treasures approximately 245 works by Picasso. Antibes is equally enchanting for the 17th-century ramparts that trace the city’s outline against the gently purring waters of the Mediterranean.
Next up along the coast: Lights, camera, Cannes (17 miles southwest of Nice; Tourism Office at Palais des Festivals, La Croisette; 04-92-99-84-22; www.palaisdesfestivals.com)! Each May since the mid-’40s, this little beach town on the Côte d’Azur is transformed into a playground for international film stars and Hollywood jetsetters during the prestigious Cannes Film Festival. If you also have a taste for the high life, a long walk down Cannes’ main promenade, La Croisette, will place you squarely in the lap of luxury as you trace the graceful curve of Cannes’ beaches on a pathway dotted by palm trees, gardens, restaurants, fancy hotels, and glitzy designer shops – count on outposts of every big-name designer you can think of. Although it may come off as a bit superficial, it’s hard to deny its allure.
Driving inland for about 20 miles northwest of Nice via the A8 Autoroute (exit n°48) you’ll discover, perched upon a rocky hilltop, St-Paul-de-Vence (Tourism Office at 2 Rue Grande; 04-93-32-86-95; www.saint-pauldevence.com), an artists’ haven where winding cobblestone streets curl around the stone facades of 16th-century houses encircled by 400-year-old stone ramparts. In the 1920s, numerous artists became attracted to this earthy hamlet of medieval stone houses that seem to blend into the rock on which they are built – the village’s elevated boundaries offer spectacular panoramas over rolling hills and vineyards. Enjoy the fruits of this modern day artists’ enclave by popping into the converted art galleries, studios, and one-off boutiques.
Alternatively, tacking on a quick excursion into Italy at San Remo (32 miles east of Nice, A8 Autoroute to Ventimiglia to Autostrada A10; Tourism Office at Largo Nuvoloni, 1; www.sanremoguide.it) is an easy way to get a quick taste of the Liguria region of Italy (also known as the Italian Riviera). This cosmopolitan beach resort boasts an upscale, century-old casino (Corso degli Inglesi 18; slot machines 10am-2am, tables 2.30pm-2.30am; 7.50€ cover charge on weekends; www.casinosanremo.it), a charming medieval old town (La Pigna), lavish flower gardens, and sun-kissed beaches.
