Restaurants
Nice, like the rest of France, takes food seriously, resulting in a local cuisine that is tirelessly prepared, meticulously presented, and thoroughly satisfying. The city’s Mediterranean locale translates to a sun-drenched diet rich in olive oil, seafood, and fresh vegetables, and seasoned with a wide variety of herbs like basil, rosemary, thyme, coriander, and garlic. Some not-to-miss Niçoise specialities include salade Niçoise, a salad of raw vegetables mixed with a hard-boiled egg, anchovies, tuna, black olives, and olive oil; pissaladière, an onion pizza covered in black olives and anchovies; ratatouille, a mix of peppers, eggplants, zucchini, tomatoes, and onions, fried in olive oil and served either hot or cold; and socca, a large pancake made of chickpea flour and olive oil, cooked in a wood-burning stove and served with black pepper. Plan to accompany at least one meal with locally produced wine from the Bellet vineyards, situated in the alpine hillsides around Nice. Keep in mind that the finest eateries command reservations well in advance.
For the ultimate in haute-cuisine, Hotel Negresco’s Michelin-starred Le Chantecler (37 Promenade des Anglais; 04-93-16-64-00; www.hotel-negresco-nice.com) specializes in seafood and Mediterranean cuisine (with a menu that rotates almost weekly). Much-respected current chef Bruno Turbot turns out dishes like blue lobster cooked with socca, beans, lemon, and thyme, or veal cutlet garnished with a green vegetable risotto; tasting menus are also available. We highly recommend L’Ane Rouge (7 Quai des Deux-Emmanuels; 04-93-89-49-63; www.anerougenice.com) as one of the city’s best seafood restaurants, situated in an atmospheric antique building right on the port of Nice, which makes for fresh-catch dishes like wild sea bass, hake, and lobster, with sides like truffled macaroni, green herbs gnocchi, or onion chutney; traditional Provençal bouillabaisse, a fish stew originating from Marseilles, is also on the menu. Another stupendous eatery, on the eastern end of the port, is Michelin-starred Jouni - Atelier du Goût (60 Bd Franck Pilatte, Palais de la Réserve, 04-97-08-14-80; www.jouni.fr), starring Finnish chef Jouni Tormanen’s sensational takes on seafood plates, which highlight seemingly simple, yet divinely prepared grilled fish platters seasoned with nothing but the basics of olive oil, sea salt, lemons, or an occasional splash of vinegar. The fresh factor is what sets this “Workshop of Taste,” as the restaurant name translates to, apart, with a market-driven menu which changes daily. However, regular treks to the markets of Italy’s San Remo ensure the consistent appearance of the delectable La Pâche de San Remo a la plancha – grilled San Remo catch of the day, accompanied by a savory mix of red mullet, red shrimp, and octopus. Lunch tasting menus are available from 30 euros; dinner tasting menus start at 65 euros.
A fine choice for mid-range dining is the cozy Don Camillo (5 Rue des Ponchettes; 04-93-85-67-95). Situated just off of Cours Saleya, this restaurant with about 10 tables is known for its attention to both cuisine and service. Expect authentic Niçoise cooking represented through a seasonal rotating menu – pasta fans delight in the "borsotti de Mémé Emma," a family ravioli recipe, and the somewhat unexpected sushi bar add-on receives rave reviews. Also noteworthy is the small and elegant La Merenda (4 Rue de la Terrasse, no telephone). It’s closed weekends, doesn’t accept credit cards, and doesn’t even have a phone – but its reputation for delectably prepared Provençal specialties still reels in the crowds to this unpretentious cellar-cum-bistro. The menu – orchestrated by master chef Dominque Le Stanc (formerly of Le Chantecler) – changes daily to reflect only the freshest market ingredients; expect fare like sea bass, truffles, oxtail, and stuffed sardines. We also recommend venturing under the arches of Place Garibaldi to Le Grand Café de Turin (5 Place Garibaldi; 04-93-62-29-52; www.cafedeturin.com), a landmark eatery for more than a century and known for its traditional hearty platters of grilled fish and coquillage (raw shellfish). Try to grab a seat on the superb terrace, and be sure to save room for the mouth-watering pastries and ice cream.
Old Nice and the areas surrounding the port are good bet to find quick, inexpensive bites, like at Nissa Socca (7 Rue Sainte-Réparate; 04-93-80-18-35) or Chez Pipo (13 Rue Bavastro; 04-93-55-88-82), local favorites where you can indulge in socca and other Niçoise specialties accompanied by inexpensive carafes of wine. Le Bistrot de Vieux Nice (8 Rue du Marché; 04-93-13-45-01; www.bistrotduvieuxnice.com) is another reliable choice, particularly for its budget-conscious, three-course, prix-fixe menu of Mediterranean fare from just 17 euros.
