Spotlight

Paris

Restaurants

Food and fine dining are the delectable centerpiece of French culture, and as the nation's capital and international center, Paris expectedly boasts a dignified assortment of dining establishments offering everything from French regional specialties to exotic international fare. Note that le fast-food is hard to come by, and that lunch can be just as big a three-course affair as dinner, so be prepared to set aside some extra time for your midday meal (although you can find some intermittent cafes serving soups and sandwiches). Breakfast is traditionally a simple meal involving croissants and pain au chocolat (chocolate-filled croissant) and café au lait (coffee with milk). Keep in mind that the chicest luxury restaurants command reservations weeks or even months in advance, so plan ahead. That said, you needn't necessarily rule out dining at upper-tier establishments if you're short on budget; many offer a reduced prix-fixe menu (fixed-price) comprising a set three-course meal (starter, main course, and dessert). Moreover, not all meals need be a sit-down affair: acquiring foodstuffs from open-air fruit and vegetable markets, fromageries (cheese shops), boulangeries (bakeries), and charcuteries (meat shops) is almost an essential aspect of a Parisian gastronomic tour.

The epitome of French haute cuisine can be sampled at Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (25 avenue Montaigne; 011/33 (0)1 53 67 65 00; www.alain-ducasse.com) in the 8th, where the edible genius of superstar-chef Ducasse melds with stellar service, an opulent setting, and divine takes on modern and traditional French cuisine. Another top choice is Le Cinq (Four Seasons George V, 31 avenue George V; 011/33 (0)1 49 52 70 00) in the same neighborhood; voted by Zagat as having the top décor of all Parisian eateries, this French-dining stunner in the Four Season George V hotel offers a chance to savor culinary treats worthy of 3 Michelin stars. Finally, we’d be remiss not to list the ever-popular Taillevent (15 rue Lamennais; 011/33 (0)1 44 95 15 01; www.taillevent.com), another 8th arrondissement triumph; set in a lavish 19th-century townhouse, this fine restaurant is famed for its exquisite interpretations of contemporary and traditional French haute cuisine and white-glove service.

Gastronomical goodness can also be discovered in a number of excellent mid-range Parisian restaurants. Our top moderate picks include the family-run Le P'tit Troquet (28 rue de l'Exposition; 011/33 (0)1 47 05 80 39), a cozy Art Deco French bistro in the 7th, near the Eiffel Tower. We also like Aux Lyonnais (32 rue St-Marc; 011/33 (0)1 42 96 65 04), a terrific bistro in the 2nd, also with ties to chef Alain Ducasse, and offering superb market-fresh Lyonnais dishes. North African cuisine is also popular in Paris – our favorite spot to grab a bite is Le 404 (69 rue des Gravilliers; 011/33 (0)1 42 74 57 81), in the 3rd, where a Moroccan menu of couscous and tajines is served in a dramatic casbah-worthy interior.

For budget diners with haute-cuisine taste, discover the delicious sandwiches, pastries, and more at BE Boulangépicier (73 boulevard de Courcelles; 011/33 (0)1 46 22 20 20; www.boulangepicier.com), a bakery/grocery store in the 8th; it's an ideal spot to indulge in gourmet lunches or to pick up picnic supplies for a foray into the nearby Parc Monceau. If you’re planning to shop to you drop on the Grands Boulevards, the lively Chartier (7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre; 011/33 (0)1 47 70 86 29), in the 9th, is just the place to refuel on classic French dishes at reasonable rates. Finally, whether you have a sweet or savory craving, you'll be rewarded with a visit to La Crêperie de Josselin (67 rue du Montparnasse; 011/33 (0)1 43 20 93 50) in the 14th; it's the place to sample delectable Breton crepes filled with everything from traditional eggs and ham to bananas and ice cream.

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