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Attractions

Getting the lay of the land is crucial, as the area that encompasses Greater Phoenix is so vast you could drive for an hour from one side and still not make it to the other. Located in the broad Salt River Valley and saddled between a series of mountain ranges, visitors will find themselves lured from the downtown areas of Phoenix and Scottsdale to other places in the Valley, whether it be to bar-hop in Tempe, shop in Glendale, or enjoy the vast array of outdoor activities.

Phoenix proper, the Valley's hub, covers more than 500 square miles (making it larger than Los Angeles) and is anchored by the downtown district, called Copper Square. The rest of the region is split up into the East, Northeast, and West Valleys, and there is a good network of highways to navigate them, including the major Interstate arteries – I-10, which runs east-west, and I-17, which runs north-south. In the end it's not that difficult to get around, but your best bet in navigating is to call ahead for directions and to keep a map of the metro area on hand. Keep in mind that a car is pretty much a necessity to experience the area's broad menu of venues and activities; city sights are just too far apart to see on foot, and solid public ground transportation options are limited, with the exception of a free DASH shuttle bus (Mon-Fri 6.30am-11pm, runs every 6-12 min; 602/253-5000; www.valleymetro.org) that operates in downtown Phoenix on weekdays, and the tourist-friendly Scottsdale Trolley (daily 11am-9pm, runs every 10 min; free; www.scottsdaleaz.gov/trolley), which runs between major shopping areas in downtown Scottsdale.

Local tourist boards provide a wealth of information, including free guides and updated information on activities and events. Contact the Greater Phoenix Convention and Visitors Bureau (50 N. 2nd St., Phoenix; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; 877/225-5749; www.phoenixcvb.com), or for Scottsdale-specific info, try the Scottsdale Convention & Visitors Bureau (Galleria Corporate Center, 4343 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 170, Scottsdale; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; 480/421-1004; www.scottsdalecvb.com).

If you prefer to see the sights with somebody else behind the wheel, Gray Line (602/437-3484 or 800/777-3484; $52; www.graylinearizona.com) offers four-hour charter bus tours of the Valley, taking in attractions in Phoenix, Scottsdale, and Tempe; they also conduct day tours to the Sedona ($95) and Grand Canyon ($148) areas. We definitely recommend setting aside a half-day for a guided off-road desert jeep or Hummer tour – the jeeps' traction will bring you into the backcountry along otherwise inaccessible dirt-paved roads. We particularly like Roadrunner Desert Adventures (480/213-9428; $125+; www.roadrunnerdesertadventures.com) for up-close encounters with the Sonoran Desert habitat and special stops at abandoned mines or ancient Native American ruins. Getting a birds-eye view over the desert and mountain ranges is simply not to be missed – try Hot Air Expeditions (480/502-6999 or 800/831-7610; $175+; www.hotairexpeditions.com) for a tranquil ride that affords fantastic vistas of the Sonoran desert – you're likely to spy coyote, jackrabbits, and other native wildlife before touching down for a champagne brunch in the desert. Note that most tour organizers also include pickup and drop-off at area resorts and hotels.

Phoenix Attractions & Museums
Downtown Phoenix lacks any real centralized, pedestrian area, although millions of dollars are being poured into the district in hopes of providing it more of a neighborhood feel, rather than the somewhat disconnected sprawl it currently represents. Still, visitors will be impressed with its urban gleam – glistening corporate buildings, pristine cultural institutions, and polished residences reflect the relative newness of this city.

What really brings tourists to downtown, though, are its two stellar museums – the Heard Museum and the Phoenix Museum of Art. The Heard Museum (2301 N. Central Ave.; daily 9.30am-5pm; 602/252-8848; $10; www.heard.org) is a great introduction to the area's native heritage and features a wonderful Native American art and archaeology collection, including an impressive collection of several hundred kachina dolls (colorful Hopi-designed religious figurines) and displays dedicated to the plight of and featuring works by the indigenous people of the Southwest, including Navajos and Hopis – groups that still reside on nearby reservations today.

A few blocks south, the Phoenix Art Museum (1625 N. Central Ave.; Tue 10am-9pm, Wed-Sun 10am-5pm; 602/257-1222; $10; www.phxart.org) has garnered recognition for its exhibits and growing collection of more than 17,000 works covering Asia, the Americas, and Europe. As the largest art museum in the Southwest, its highlights include the Thorne Miniature Rooms, portraying historic interiors, and the Western American Art room, featuring works by members of the Cowboy Artists of America, an art organization dedicated to depicting the lifestyle of the cowboy and the American West. Tip: The museum has free admission Tuesdays from 3pm to 9pm.

To explore the contemporary edge of the Phoenician art scene, a slew of urban galleries beckon – and if you happen to be in town on the first Friday of the month, artlink's First Fridays (starts at Phoenix Public Library, 1221 N. Central Ave.; 6-10pm; 602/256-7539; free; www.artlinkphoenix.com) event makes for a fantastic introduction to the region's emerging and established artists exhibited in the area.

On the eastern edge of downtown, Heritage Square (115 N. 6th St.; hours vary for each building; 602/262-5071; www.ci.phoenix.az.us) comprises a full city block of Phoenix's last remaining structures from its original settlement site, providing a nice contrast to the über-modern city that now surrounds it. Stately Victorians, dating back to the 19th and 20th centuries, now house a quaint assortment of museums, shops, and restaurants, including a tearoom, an 1895 home (open for tours), and a toy museum. Across the street, history buffs will appreciate the Phoenix Museum of History's (105 N. 5th St.; Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; 602/253-2734; $6; www.pmoh.org) displays that retrace the Valley's trajectory from a Hohokam Indian village to a modern-day metropolis. Also in this area is the immensely popular Arizona Science Center (600 E. Washington St.; daily 10am-5pm; 602/716-2000; $9; www.azscience.org), a worthwhile stop (particularly for those with kids in tow) for the more than 300 interactive, hands-on exhibits along with a state-of-the-art planetarium, an IMAX theater with a five-story screen, and a science store.

Horticulture enthusiasts shouldn't miss Papago Park (Van Buren St. & Galvin Pkwy.; daily dawn-dusk; 602/261-8318; free admission to trails, charges for picnic rentals; www.phoenix.gov/PARKS), east of downtown Phoenix. The 50-acre Desert Botanical Gardens (1201 N. Galvin Pkwy., Papago Park; daily Oct-Apr 8am-8pm, May-Sept 7am-8pm; 480/941-1225; $10; www.dbg.org) is home to 139 rare plant species from around the world and laced with walking paths popular to desert animals and birds. A visit at dusk is particularly pleasant, when the garden cacti are illuminated by soft lights and night-blooming flowers begin to show their colors. The Phoenix Zoo (455 N. Galvin Pkwy., Papago Park; hours vary by season; 602/273-1341; $14; www.phoenixzoo.org) is another area of interest in the park for its tremendous range of animals (more than 400 species of mammals alone) and habitats, from the American Southwest to the African savannah. Kids will love the Children's Trail, with a butterfly garden, playground, and an old-fashioned farm.

Scottsdale Attractions & Museums
Phoenix's northeastern neighbor, Scottsdale (located about 12 miles from downtown Phoenix) is more than a posh resort town where beautiful people, hoity-toity boutiques, extravagant homes, luxurious spas and resorts, above-par golf courses, and chic nightlife converge – it's the ideal locale for visitors to set up home base in the Valley, providing all of the comforts of big-city living and easy access to outdoor pursuits.

Today's glitzy shops and multi-million dollar mansions might have you curious about Scottsdale's city slogan, "The West's Most Western Town," but Wild West buffs can make better sense of the motto by visiting Old Town. This walkable, kitschy, Old West-themed neighborhood of souvenir shops, old style saloons, and Southwestern restaurants intermixes with some authentic early-20th century historic buildings including a mission church, schoolhouse, and blacksmith shop that provide a glimpse into the Scottsdale days of yore.

West of Old Town, downtown Scottsdale's Arts District is a thriving visual arts center and home to a huge concentration of Scottsdale's more than 125 art galleries and studios. Gallery-hop in the Main Street Arts & Antiques District (Main St. btwn Scottsdale Rd. & Coldwater Blvd.) for an eclectic mix of galleries, shops, and antique stores – some galleries worth a stop include Duley Jones Gallery (7100 Main St.; 480/945-8475; www.duleyjones.com) and Legacy Gallery (7178 East Main St.; 480/945-1113; www.legacygallery.com). Or, saunter over to the vibrant Marshall Way Contemporary Arts District (Marshall Way btwn Indian School Rd. & 5th Ave.) to peruse its arts and crafts galleries, upscale jewelry stores, and spas – don't miss Robert Roman Gallery at artspace (4235 N. Marshall Way; 480/947-4014; www.robertromangallery.com) or Calvin Charles Gallery (4201 N. Marshall Way; 480/421-1818; www.calvincharles.com).

The funky and thoroughly modern Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (7374 E. 2nd St.; Tue-Wed 10am-5pm, Thu 10am-8pm, Fri-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 12-5pm, shortened hours in summer; 480/994-2787; $7, free on Thu; www.smoca.org), or SMoCA, is the crowning glory of the local arts scene, rotating exhibits that feature works of the best and brightest contemporary artists in a sleek minimalist space. Try and coordinate your visit with the free, weekly Scottsdale ArtWalk (Thu 7-9pm; www.scottsdalegalleries.com) when multiple galleries along Main Street and Marshall Way open their doors to the public with artist receptions and special exhibitions, and the SMoCA keeps late hours and offers free admission.

The creative flair of the area is again evidenced by Taliesin West (12621 N. Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd.; 480/860-2700; www.franklloydwright.org), the Southwestern counterpart to celebrated American architect Frank Lloyd Wright's famous Taliesin in Wisconsin. Founded as his winter home, studio, and architectural school in 1937, today it houses the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture and is the headquarters for the Wright Foundation. Guided tours (various daily from 9am-4pm; $18-$45) – the only way to visit the property – provide insights into Wright's architecture philosophies and examples of their structural manifestations. The prominent architect's mark on Valley architecture is apparent, both via his direct influence (like at the Arizona Biltmore resort) and through the prolific works of his students found about town.

Tempe
Situated just south of Scottsdale is the fast-growing city of Tempe, site of Arizona State University. It has the fun, youthful vibe typical to a university town and Mill Avenue's (see Nightlife) collection of fun and funky boutiques, eateries, pubs, and clubs is one of the few areas in the Valley, aside from downtown Scottsdale, where people ditch their cars and pound the pavement. There are also a handful of museums, galleries, and sights of interest around the college campus area; the most impressive is the Gammage Auditorium (1200 S. Forest Ave.; box office Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; 480/965-3434; www.asugammage.com), a Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece that plays host to regular theater performances. Another, rather unexpected, attraction here is the 2-mile stretch of Tempe Town Lake (80 W. Salido Pkwy.; 480/350-8625; www.tempetownlake.com); created in 1999 by the damming of the Salt River, it today invites exploration via pedal boats ($12/hour rental), kayaks ($10/hour rental), and other watercraft.

Hiking, Biking & Outdoor Pursuits
If it's the unique desert environment that you're seeking to commune with, set your eyes on one of the mountains rising up on the horizon and head out in search of stellar hiking, biking, rock-climbing, horseback riding, and more – rarely further than a 15 minute drive from almost anywhere in the Valley. Whatever activity you pursue, plan to head out in the early morning hours before it gets too hot; don't forget to bring plenty of water and sunscreen.

Rarely are such awesome natural settings found so close to urban centers, but outdoor enthusiasts in the Greater Phoenix area are in luck. The city's most popular natural areas and preserves include Echo Canyon Recreation Area (E. McDonald Dr. & N. Tatum Blvd., Phoenix; 602/262-4837; www.phoenix.gov/PARKS), site of the iconic Camelback Mountain; Papago Park (see "Phoenix Attractions" above), home to the Phoenix Zoo and Desert Botanical Gardens, and popular for mountain biking; Phoenix Mountains Park and Recreation Area (2701 E. Squaw Peak Dr., Phoenix; 602/262-7901; www.phoenix.gov/PARKS), site of Piestewa Peak (formerly Squaw Peak) which welcomes a half million hikers to its trails each year; and South Mountain Park and Preserve (10919 Central Ave., Phoenix; 602/534-6324; www.phoenix.gov/PARKS), another ideal mountain biking spot and the largest municipal park in the US, encompassing more than 16,000 acres.

For bike rentals, try Arizona Outback Adventures (16447 N. 91st St., Scottsdale; 480/945-2881 or 866/455-1601; $30+; www.azoutbackadventures.com), or, for guided outings, we like ABC/Desert Biking Adventures (7119 E. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale; 602/320-4602 or 888/249-2453; $75+; www.desertbikingadventures.com) – they offer downhill mountain, cross-country, and paved "bike-seeing" tours. Guided outdoor adventure for everyone from beginner to expert is also available from 360 Adventures (3268 E. Vineyard Rd., Phoenix; 480/722-0360 or 888/722-0360; $100+; www.360-adventures.com) – sign up for half-day to multi-day guided rock-climbing, mountain biking, hiking, and canyoning trips.

Our favorite independent hike is to the city's highest point at Camelback Mountain, so named for its humped, camel-like shape. Hiking or jogging the 1.2-mile Summit Trail to the top of Greater Phoenix's highest mountain is a popular local pastime – while it can be strenuous, the 2.4-mile round-trip trek is well worth the effort for the astounding views of the surrounding valley and metropolitan area, and for close encounters with the multi-armed saguaro cacti, which can grow up to 50-feet high and live as long as 200 years. The "Praying Monk" formation at Camelback, meanwhile, makes for one of the most rewarding rock-climbing terrains in the region.

If the Wild West has awakened your inner cowboy, head to MacDonald's Ranch (26540 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale; 480/585-0239; $35/hour+; www.macdonaldsranch.com) where professional wranglers offer guided horseback rides and cowboy cookouts.

Golf
Ranked in the top golf destinations in America – the National Golf Foundation dubbed the Greater Phoenix area "The Golf Capital of the World" – the Valley touts some 200 diverse fairways for every style and budget. Virtual year-round sunshine coupled with fantastic desert scenery, golf schools, and high-caliber instructors is what lures the nearly two million golfers who tee off in Greater Phoenix each year. Even if you don't play, you can experience the fervor by attending one of the numerous tournaments throughout the year; Scottsdale's prestigious PGA Tour's FBR Open (late-Jan/early-Feb) is the most famous, attracting one of the game's biggest audiences worldwide. Keep in mind that although area courses are numerous, tee times at the most popular courses can book up quickly, especially during the winter high season – be sure to reserve ahead of time. Tee time reservation services can assist you in this – try Golf Xpress (602/404-4653 or 888/679-8246; www.azgolfxpress.com); they also rent golf clubs ($25+ w/pickup and drop-off).

Our top links picks include the dynamic Monument and Pinnacle courses at Troon North Golf Club (10320 E. Dynamite Blvd., Scottsdale; 480/585-5300; www.troonnorthgolf.com) – the high-desert ravines and rolling foothills at the base of Pinnacle Peak in north Scottsdale are thrilling, but with greens fees of $245 to $295 in high season (Jan-Apr), the kicks don't come cheap. The Phoenician's 27-hole USGA championship course (6000 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale; 480/423-2450 or 800/888-8234; high-season $199; www.thephoenician.com) offers three nines - Canyon, Desert, and Oasis – each with distinct surrounding landscapes. For less expensive greens fees at quality courses, try Tempe's Pete Dye-designed ASU Karsten Golf Course (1125 E. Rio Salado Pkwy., Tempe; 480/921-8070; high-season $92; www.asukarsten.com), a public course with an easygoing atmosphere and a fair level of difficulty; they also have one of the best pro shops in town. Finally, Papago Golf Course (5595 E. Moreland St., Phoenix; 602/275-8428; www.phoenix.gov) is considered one of the best municipal courses in the country and offers the best deal around with greens fees from just $30 in high-season – reservations are highly recommended and can be made up to a week in advance.

For golf gear, In Celebration of Golf (7001 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale; 480/948-1766 or 800/ 310-9459; www.celebrategolf.com) is a 15,000-square-foot shop with everything from an antique golf shop mock-up to a state-of-the-art indoor practice facility.

Spas
Spas are a major part of the Valley's "pamper-me" culture and we recommend you put a treatment high on your "to do" list. If you're not staying at a resort with an on-site spa, you can still get a day pass to visit one. Note that for the cost of a treatment at any of these spas, you'll be privy to use of the spa facilities which oft include pools, whirlpools, steam rooms, fitness centers, and relaxation areas.

Our top spa pick is Sanctuary Spa at Camelback Mountain (5700 E. McDonald Dr., Paradise Valley; 480/607-2330 or 800/245-2051; open to non-resort guests Mon-Thu only; $85+; www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com), Asian-inspired and featuring a Zen meditation garden and indoor and outdoor treatment rooms. For treatments with a more "local" slant, get smothered in an adobe clay body mask and moisturized with cactus and aloe at the Spa at Camelback Inn (5402 E. Lincoln Dr., Scottsdale; 480/596-7040 or 800/922-2635; $75+; www.camelbackspa.com). Another favorite is Golden Door Spa (34631 N. Tom Darlington Dr., Carefree; 480/595-3500; $70+; www.goldendoorspas.com/boulders), 33,000-square-feet of pampering at The Boulders Resort with 24 treatment rooms, a labyrinth, spa café, hydrotherapy tubs, and a fitness center – we're especially keen on the signature turquoise wrap, with its blue-cornmeal and ionized turquoise clay, as well as the hydrating aloe wrap, perfect for dry, sun-affected desert skin. Finally, Arizona Biltmore Spa's (2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix; 602/381-7632; $95+; www.arizonabiltmore.com) treatments borrow from cultures including Chinese, Native American, French, Swedish, and Pacific Islander, providing everything from a "desert rain body treatment" to a "Fiji Island sugar glow."

See Phoenix Travel Guide