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Head back in time to old Florida around Pine Island Sound
North Captiva Island
For anyone who wishes to understand the draw the region had on Hemingway, Theodore Roosevelt, and all the other notables who made the then-difficult journey in the first half of the 20th century, the place to head to is North Captiva.
Most of the southern end of the island is a protected wildlife refuge. Walking North Captiva’s sandy edges as birds pinwheel overhead and dolphins feed in the surf, it is possible to imagine life as it was 400 years ago in Florida—a land unspoiled by human hands. The town, such as it is (only 300 homes) is found at the island’s north end, a verdant settlement divided only by a short, grass airstrip. Many, if not most, of these homes are taken care of by management companies and are available for rent; when we visited in the winter, early in 2009, there was only about a 40 percent occupancy rate, which meant that there were both deals and increased solitude available for the prospective tenant.
After our arrival from Pine Island, which is a 40-minute taxi ride from the Fort Myers airport and where a regular ferry service to North Captiva originates, we checked in at the dock maintained by the North Captiva Island Club. The club handles rentals for many of the houses on the island and provides an ersatz village square for visitors: You get your golf cart there, swim in the pool, play tennis, take a kayak out into the sound—all this is included in your house-rental fee. Keys were handed over, and a pleasant fellow offered to take our bags to our home. We had a lovely breakfast at Mango’s next door to the club, investigated the tennis courts and pool, then took a short and silent drive along a sandy path to our vacation residence, a gem on stilts that offered a magnificent view of the Gulf.
We found the refrigerator filled with groceries we had ordered ahead of time and charcoal on the grill outside. The pool gurgled and soft winds rustled in the fronds of palms, out front, out back, all around. There was swimming to be done, a long walk to take on the beach before dinner, and a movie to watch before bed. My wife and I set our bags down in a plush bedroom with 120-degree views of the island and the Gulf and started to laugh. Who knew paradise had a ceiling fan?
“Come on, Mom and Dad,” our daughters called, already in bathing suits, urban doldrums receding behind them, and eager to swim. “Let’s go!”
Where to Stay
Renting lodging from the North Captiva Island Club Resort (northcaptiva.com) can be either a smart splurge or a great value, depending on the home’s size, location, and amenities. A five-bedroom home located on the Gulf, with a pool and a gourmet kitchen, starts at about $5,500 a week. A two-bedroom home with a pool and incredible views of the Gulf, and located only a short walk from the beach goes for $2,500 a week.
Where to Eat
A dessert in the ticky-tacky brilliance of Captiva’s Bubble Room (15001 Captiva Dr., 239/472-5558) would not be an error, though those who dislike kitsch would be wise to avoid the place entirely.
Read our Sanibel and Captiva Island Travel Guides for even more in-depth destination and trip-planning advice!
Sanibel and Captiva Island Getaways from $149/Nt Editors' Review
