Spotlight

Porto

Attractions

You could easily spend a couple of days just soaking up the dreamy Old World vibe of the Ribeira, Porto’s protected waterfront area, and we certainly recommend doing just that – but the city also has some heavyweight cultural institutions outside the area that command attention. Plus, you definitely can’t leave the town without spending an afternoon (or more) sampling port at the source, at one of the dozens of lodges that produce it here.

While Porto is a joy to discover independently – it’s a compact city with most sights within easy walking, or sometimes climbing, distance – it’s still easy to lose your bearings in its maze of alleyways, passages, and cul-de-sacs. As a result, we highly recommend taking a guided tour. All city tours are available through Porto Tours, Porto’s most reputable purveyor of tourist activities; we especially like their thematic walks that cover aspects of the city’s history, art, or architecture (3hrs; €5). If you’re strapped for time, or simply don’t feel fit enough to climb the steep streets, you can also see most of the attractions on a bus tour (half-day; €30) or, by a more pleasant option, a mini-tram ride (€6; 1hr45min; includes a visit to a port lodge). Porto Tours same outfit also organizes personalized tours (half-day; €40+).

Before you set out on your own, however, make sure you acquire the excellent-value Passe Porto tourist card; a day card costs €7.50 (or €15.50 for three days) and gets you unlimited use of buses, streetcars, and subway, as well as discounts at attractions, restaurants and shops. You can get one at the City Council Tourism Office on Rua Clube dos Fenianos 25 (July–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–4.30pm; rest of the year Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–4.30pm); they also have a second branch on Rua do Infante D. Henrique 63 (same hours) just up from the Ribeira. While you’re in the tourism offices, be sure to also pick up a free, detailed city map.

Note that you can also check what’s on in Porto during your visit on the tourism board’s website. Once there, pick up the quarterly, bilingual guide Agenda do Porto, available, free, all around town.

Churches and Landmarks
With 28 churches and chapels and an impressive number of architectural and historical landmarks scattered around Porto’s old town, you could easily spend days on end touring them all. We’ve covered the ones not to miss.

The finest – and certainly most scenic – introduction to the city is a visit to the sixth floor of the Torre dos Clérigos (Nov–March daily 10am–noon & 2–5pm; April–Oct daily 9.30am–1pm & 2–7pm; August daily 10am–7pm; €1–€5; Rua San Filipe de Nery), a Baroque tower designed by the Italian architect Nicolau Nisoni in 1754. While the interior is notable for its superb Rococo carvings, it’s the panoramic city vistas from the belfry that are the real draw here. Note that there is no elevator to get you up there, so you’ll have to climb some 225 steps to take in the views; you’ll be glad you did, however, since the views are simply astonishing.

From the top of the tower, you’ll immediately notice Porto’s most prominent landmark, the imposing cathedral (Nov–March daily 8.45am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm; April–Oct daily 8.45am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm; Terreiro da Sé), soaring over the skyline. This eclectic structure is definitely worth a visit for its unique mélange of architectural styles – you’ll find everything from Romanesque foundations to a Gothic cloister and even a Baroque loggia. Make sure to peek inside, too, at its fabulous silver altarpiece and pretty painted tiles. Architectural value aside, the Sé does double duty as a city reference point; if you get lost on your peregrinations through Porto’s tousled web of streets, just look for the church spire to guide you back to the center.

Even more remarkable than the Sé is the marvelous Gothic extravaganza of the Igreja da São Francisco (daily March & April, Sep & October 9am–6pm; May–Aug 9am–7pm; Nov–Feb 9am–5pm; €3, with museum; Rua do Infante D. Henrique), Porto’s most striking Catholic sanctuary. The stupendous Baroque interiors here come complete with gilded carvings, gold-leaf motifs and other lavish ecclesiastical decorations. Don’t miss the church vaults that once served as the resting place of the city’s inhabitants; these days, the catacombs house a small but fascinating museum that displays religious paintings, human skulls, and a smattering of other random artifacts.

For a change of pace, take a peek at the São Bento train station, a landmark turn-of-the-century building that vies with New York’s Grand Central station in terms of atmosphere and artistry. Once past the magnificent Old World entrance hall, the main concourse is covered with 20,000 azulejos (as Portuguese tiles are known locally), done in an oil-painting style and depicting various historical and local agricultural scenes.

Cais da Ribeira
Once you’ve situated yourself, head to the Cais da Ribeira (for “river quays”), the area around the Douro River. This is Porto at its most captivating – where you’ll find the city’s soul in an exceedingly atmospheric setting. Indeed, one look around and you’ll understand why UNESCO proclaimed this stunning quarter a World Heritage Site in 1996. The area has witnessed quite a revival since then, with many of the buildings being renovated and upscale restaurants and cafés now occupying former riverfront warehouses; they’re a good place to stop and people-watch after you’ve explored the area (our favorites are reviewed later).

We recommend simply walking the streets here – there are no specific attractions, per se. That said, you should definitely start by strolling the 3km-long cobblestone promenade that lines the Douro itself. Few views in Europe are as colorful as this one: flat-bottomed boats loll on the water, six eye-catching bridges span its width – one of them, the Dona Maria Pia, was designed completely in metal by Gustav Eiffel back in 1877 – and the lot of it is backdropped by a marvelous warren of twisted alleyways home to ancient, colorful townhouses, laundry-laden balconies, and centuries-old arcades.

Finally, cap off your visit with a cruise on the Douro River itself. Indeed, a boat trip on the water that flows past this colorful neighborhood is not to be missed; if you can only take one, we highly recommend the fifty-minute cruise of the six bridges, available from Porto Tours (€5-€8); the same agency also offers a terrific moonlit evening cruise (€7.50).

Museums and Palaces
While you might be tempted to spend the remainder of your visit absorbing the ambience of the Ribeira, Porto has a thriving arts scene that’s worth some investigation, as well. For a relatively small city, Porto actually counts a large number of museums and palaces – over 20, in fact! Not all of them impress, however, but the ones that do are real gems; we’ve highlighted our best picks, here.

The most extraordinary ‘palace’ in Porto, and a definite highlight on the city’s tourist trail, is the massive Palácio da Bolsa (by guided tour only; daily Apr–Oct 9am–7pm, Nov–March 9am–1pm & 2–6pm, every 30 minutes; €5; Rua Ferreira Borges), a neoclassical 19th-century structure designed to house a stock exchange, not royalty (as its name might otherwise suggest). These days, it’s open to visitors for daily guided tours around the elaborately decked out rooms. The main attraction is an oval-shaped Arabian Hall that’s reminiscent of the Alhambra, right down to its ornate woodwork and stained-glass windows. There’s also a pretty garden out back.

Meanwhile, the shining star of Porto’s museum-world is the astounding Fundaçao de Serralves (April–Sept Tues–Thurs 10am–7pm, Fri & Sat 10am–10pm, Sun 10am–8pm; October–March until 7pm only on Sundays; €5 for both museum and park, or €2.50 for park only; Rua D. João de Castro 210), the largest and most visited modern art museum in all of Portugal. Set inside a gorgeous 44-acre garden about a mile-and-a-half west of the city center, and housed in a spectacular Art Nouveau building designed by Porto’s own Álvaro Siza Vieira, the museum hosts changing exhibits of contemporary Portuguese artists, with an occasional international name thrown in. Make sure you set aside a couple of hours for exploring the grounds, too; you’ll get a glimpse of the glorious pink Art Deco mansion that once housed the Serralves family’s collection, while the gardens themselves are beautifully landscaped and dotted with sculptures, fountains and art installations.

Back in town, the excellent Museu Nacional de Soares dos Reis (Tues 2–6pm, Wed–Sun 10am–6pm; €3; Rua D. Manuel II) showcases an impressive collection of 18th- and 19-century Portuguese masterpieces, including the works by renowned homegrown sculptor António Soares dos Reis, as well as a first-rate collection of ceramics, glass and silver.

Of Porto’s smaller museums, the delightful Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro (Tues–Sat 10am–12.15pm & 2–5.30pm, Sun 2–5.30pm; €0.75; Rua de d. Hugo 32) makes another worthy stop. Set in an 18th-century Baroque building right below the Sé cathedral, the edifice once served as the home of a famous Portuguese poet; his private collection of art and memorabilia – including Islamic ceramics, silver pieces and religious-themed wood carvings – are on display.

For a taste of Porto’s history as a riverfront town, we also recommend the Casa do Infante (Tues–Sat 10.30am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm, Sunday 2–5.30pm; free; Rua da Alfândega 10), the alleged birthplace of the famous 15th-century explorer Henry the Navigator. Today, the casa houses a small history museum displaying medieval parchments, drawings, and whatnot.

Port-Tasting Tours
Of course, you can’t leave Porto without tasting the sweet fortified wine that bears its name and gave it an international reputation (and lasting export). The stuff has been aged here for centuries, in nearby Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro from the Ribeira. The area is easily reachable by a ten-minute walk across Ponte Dom Luis I, and you’ll find plenty of outlets offering port samplings and tours. Choosing which of the 50-odd traditional port lodges to visit here can be overwhelming – and intoxicating to boot! We’ve highlighted the top four – so set aside an afternoon for some sampling, and plan on taking a nap when you’re done!

The best crash course is offered by the renowned Sandeman label (Nov–March Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm; April–Oct daily 10am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; 022/374 0533; €3, redeemable against one purchased bottle per person; Largo Miguel Bombarda 3), a distillery founded back in 1790 and housed in a former convent. The cost of entry includes a visit to a small museum as well.

For a less touristy experience, head to Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman (Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, July & Aug also on Sat 10am–6pm; 022/742 800; free; Rua do Choupelo 250), a wonderfully atmospheric lodge that’s been around since 1692 and features some top-notch vintage brands; it’s quite a hike up the hill, but the tour is very informative – you’ll learn about the fascinating history of the lodge, which has seen three centuries of port trading, as well as get insiders’ tips about how to recognize a fine port wine.

Also worth a visit is the 122-year-old Ramos Pinto (June & Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Oct–May Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 2–5pm, July & August open on Sundays 10am–5pm; 022/370 7000; free; Av. Ramos Pinto 380) offering guided tours and a smattering of 19th-century port-related exhibits in the small cellar museum, as well as a historical library with all manner of port-themed literature.

Another notable lodge is the small – and less crowded – Ferreira (March–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 10.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; 022/374 5292; €2.50, redeemable towards a bottle purchase; Rua da Carvalhosa 19/103), also in the top tier of illustrious port lodges in Vila Nova and offering excellent tastings and tours.

If you still want to know more about Port, and have the time to spare, you can also take a day-long cruise to the Douro Valley – Porto’s equivalent of Napa – where the vineyards that produce Porto grapes are found. Porto Tours, again, is the company that arranges such outings (one-day cruises from €67, lunch included).

Day Trips
If you’re staying in the area for longer than three days, you’ll definitely have time to make a leisurely afternoon trip to the seaside area of Foz, an upscale residential neighborhood three miles northwest of the city center, where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Reached by a scenic twenty-minute ride on the rattling historic tram that departs from the Ribeira, Foz is a quiet area of stately mansions, well-manicured gardens and an oceanfront boulevard with a string of al fresco cafés and restaurants. If you have a penchant for seafood, head another four miles northwest (by local bus or taxi) to reach the town of Matosinhos; it’s known for its top-notch seafood restaurants (see our recommendation, below).

Further afield, two ancient cities in the southern Minho province also call for day-trips; you can visit these independently or join a guided tour through Porto Tours (€100 per person). The first gem, Portugal’s religious capital of Braga, lies 31 miles north of Porto and boasts an impressive cathedral in addition to the legendary Bom Jesus do Monte pilgrimage site, an 18th-century hilltop church a couple of miles southeast of the center; a local bus leaves every thirty minutes or so (on weekends, at any rate) from the Cristal Farmácia on Avda. da Liberdade. While a funicular leads to the top of the wooded hill on which the oratory stands, its epic granite stairway is still climbed by devout pilgrims – who ascend it on their knees. You’ll be able to take a breather in the site’s enchanting fountain- and grotto-filled gardens once you reach the top.

The other historic city of note is Guimarães, 30 miles northeast of Porto, the birthplace of Portugal’s first king, Dom Afonso Henriques. It’s worth visiting to inspect the commanding 10th-century castle in which Alfonso was born (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30am & 2–5pm; free); the medieval quarters are exceedingly atmospheric.

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