Restaurants
Ten years ago, it was impossible to mention Prague's dining scene to foodies without smirks and laughter ensuing. The city had plenty of restaurants, but most served standard pub grub that, while hearty, was meant to complement the excellent beer that Czechs produce (and not the other way around). But that's all changed. The restaurant scene in Golden Prague is shining brighter than ever. The pub grub is still there (for a real treat, try goulash with dumplings or another hearty Czech dish at one of the many gastro-pubs that have sprung up recently), but it now has competition with nouvelle Czech, Asian fusion, French, sushi, Mexican, and a plethora of other types of cuisine. And best of all, it's relatively cheap. There aren't many Michelin stars here – and don't expect to find Alain Ducasse or Jean George – but you can eat well here for half the price you'll find in western and central European capitals.
When it opened in the mid '90s, Kampa Park Na Kampe 8B; 296/826-102; www.kampapark.com), serving up succulent seafood in the shadow the Charles Bridge, kicked off a haute dining revolution in the Czech capital that has yet to slow down. Tommy Sjoo, Kampa Park's Swedish cofounder, has since begun an eatery empire; one of his latest is Hot (Wenceslas Square Václavské namestí 45; 222/247-240; www.hot.bacchusgroup.cz), which dishes up sizzling pan-Asian delights to the beautiful crowd in a SoHo-like ambience on Wenceslas Square. Vinarna V Zatisi (Liliova 1; 222/221-155), located on a narrow Old Town lane, serves top notch international fare in a recently re-designed dining room. For a less flashy and more traditional experience, Palffy Palac (Valdštejnská 14; 257/530-522; www.palffy.cz) is a Mala Strana mainstay housed in a Renaissance palace that's been satisfying Prague's upper crust (and visiting foodies in the know) for years with its well-prepared continental and Czech cuisine.
Thankfully, Prague now boasts very good restaurants in all price categories. More moderate picks include the hip Hergetova Cihelna (Cihelná 2b; 296/826-103; www.cihelna.com), housed in an old brick factory near the river in Mala Strana and dishing up tasty wood-fired pizzas and inventive Asian-inspired plates. For an equally tantalizing menu, Zahrada v Opere, or Opera Garden (Legerova 75; 224/239-685; www.zahradavopere.cz), hits a high note with international dishes like Brazilian steak and risotto served in a minimalist dining room. Dynamo (Pstrossova 29; 224/932-020) and its diverse menu of Czech and Asian-leaning dishes is a favorite among hip locals. Just up the street, popular Universal (V Jircharich 6; 224/918-182) is a straightforward (but perennially hip) eatery that regularly receives accolades for its French-leaning dishes and big salads.
Travelers traversing Europe on a shoe string will eat very well in Prague – not only because the price to quality ratio is advantageous to the traveler, but because there are a plethora of real budget restaurants in Prague as well. Kolkovna (V Kolkovné 8; 224/819-701; www.kolkovna.cz) was the beacon that set the city abuzz with a small gastro-pub movement. This "pub" is a local favorite not only because of its Art Nouveau atmosphere, but because it serves up above-average hearty Czech cuisine (goulash and dumplings and Svickova – braised beef served in a cream sauce and topped with cranberries and a dollop of whipped cream). Whether you want a late-night snack, excellent vegetarian plates, or find yourself suddenly in need for an American-style weekend brunch (or all of the above), Radost FX Cafe (Belehradská 120; 603/193-711; www.radostfx.cz) is the place. Located behind the National Museum, this uber-hip spot was one of the first American expat establishments to open in the early '90s. The wannabe American writers may be gone, but Radost is still serving up Mexican, Italian, and Czech treats. As curious as it may seem, great pizzerias are legion in Prague. One of the best is Kmotra (V Jircharich 12; 224/915-809), which some argue makes the best pie this side of the Alps.
