Spotlight

Puerto Vallarta

Attractions

Puerto Vallarta's tropical El Centro (downtown) is bordered by swaths of beach and stretches over the Río Cuale. It includes both the Old Town and the malecón (boardwalk) in a fairly compact and easily walkable area. If you prefer to get oriented via a sightseeing tour, check out Puerto Vallarta Tours ($27); their City and Tropical Tour lasts five hours and covers the yacht-filled Marina, Centro, Old Town shopping, and a visit to Playa Mismaloya, all from the comfort of an air-conditioned bus.

Back in town, other methods of transportation include public buses (daily 6am–11pm; 50¢), which go the length of town, to and from the airport, through the Hotel Zone, across the river, and back. Buses are clearly labeled with their destination; the Zona Hoteles line heads to the hotel strip; the Playa Mismaloya bus goes to the beach south of town every 10 to 15 minutes. Taxis are also abundant and normally inexpensive – just be sure to negotiate your price before you get in or you may get ripped off; cabs from downtown to the Hotel Zone and Marina Vallarta should cost around $5; count on $10 from Marina Vallarta to Mismaloya. A word to the wise: Have your dinner plans set before you get in a cab – many cabbies have deals with restaurants and receive commission for the diners they bring in – or you may end up at an unappetizing taco joint.

Main Sights
A perfectly fine day can consist of strolling through Centro and along the boardwalk that fronts the bay. It's hard to miss La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Calle Hidalgo 370; 7.30am–8pm daily) Puerto Vallarta's iconic symbol and most prominent landmark. Visible from almost anywhere in Centro, the bell tower is topped with an ornate filigree crown which, surprisingly, replicates that worn by Carlota, the onetime Empress of Mexico, who allegedly lost her mind after her husband was executed in the late 1860s. Inside, beautiful religious and traditional Mexican art cover the walls; devout church-goers can even attend a bilingual mass, held on Sundays at 10am.

A short walk away is Puerto Vallarta's main square, Plaza de Armas, which is especially popular in the early evening, when locals and tourists descend upon it to enjoy its sunset views and merry scene. Nearby is the much-photographed seahorse statue; a short walk south on the malecón will take you past more fantastical seaside sculptures to the Plaza Aquiles Serdán, where you'll find the tiny Los Arcos amphitheater, with its four famous arches.

Continue walking three blocks south along the river, to the Mercado Municipal Río Cuale (municipal market), where you'll find a hodgepodge of Mexican wares, from traditional frocks and religious triptychs, to hand-painted ceramics, woven belts, and beaded jewelry. More outdoor vendors and markets await mid-river, on the lush Isla Río Cuale, which is accessed by bridge and also home to the quaint Museo Río Cuale (Mon-Sat 10am–3pm & 4–7pm; Sun 10am–2pm; free), showcasing local paintings and pre-Columbian figurines.

For a more romantic outing, pay homage to the couple that started Puerto Vallarta's honeymooning trend by visiting Casa Kimberly (Zaragoza 445; daily 9am–6pm; $8), the onetime abode of Richard Burton and Liz Taylor. Sold in 1990, the house is now a bed-and-breakfast-cum-museum nestled in a hilltop area known as Gringo Gulch, and full of the couple's belongings, including Taylor's daybed, Burton's altar-like bar, tableware, and other personal curios. You can also admire the arched pink bridge that that connected the casa to the house across the street.

No trip to Puerto Vallarta would be complete without at least one stroll down the famed malecón, the waterfront boardwalk that stretches from the center of town towards the Hotel Zone. Either during the day or after sunset, the lively and often crowded promenade is dotted with shops, restaurants, cafes, bars, and street artists. Grab a drink, a bite, and people-watch to your heart's content (see our favorite spots to eat and drink, below).

HITTING THE BEACH
Town activities aside, the main reason people come to Puerto Vallarta is to bask on its 26 miles of sandy shorefront. We've covered our favorite beaches here as well as a slew of hidden coves and secluded strands that are only accessible by boat.

The closest beach to town–and the finest back when Puerto Vallarta was still a tiny, isolated village–is Playa de los Muertos. Its name – Beach of the Dead – recalls the numerous battles that once transpired between Indians and pirates along these shores. Although it's a bit rocky, it's nonetheless a fine spot to pass the hours whether lounging on the beach, sipping cocktails, strolling the boardwalk, sampling fresh seafood, or browsing local craft stores. Gentle waves make for nice swimming, but you're unlikely to get any surfing or boogie boarding here, except for occasionally at the southern end. Watersports like jet-skiing ($50 for 30 minutes), water-skiing ($75 for an hour), and parasailing ($25 for a 10-minute ride) are available in front of Hotel Playa Los Arcos and the Tropicana Hotel. At the end of the day, sunset cocktails at the famous waterfront restaurant, Daiquiri Dicks (reviewed below), are a must.

Just south of Playa de los Muertos, Playa Conchas Chinas (Curly Shells Beach) comprises several small sandy coves that stretch for about a mile below rocky, condo-filled hillsides. Gentle waves wash the shores, which make for pleasant swimming, and you can also fish off the rocks or snorkel in the calm pools – just bring your own gear, since rentals aren't available here.

Another popular choice is Playa Mismaloya, six miles south of town, which served as the setting for the film Night of the Iguana and still hosts the restored movie set in a restaurant on its tiny cove. A strand of beachside palapas now fronts the lagoon's edge, while fishing boats sit beached along the shore. Since this stretch of sand is quite small, it tends to get quite crowded, especially as the entrance to the first-class Hotel La Jolla de Mismaloya sits right in the middle. But the water here is clear and calm and has great snorkeling immediately north, at Los Arcos, a federal underwater park and eco-preserve that's considered the best snorkeling site around. For snorkeling tours and info, check out Puerto Vallarta Tours; tours head out twice daily at 9am or 2pm, include lunch and equipment, and cost $32. If you don't want to get wet to see it, glass-bottomed boats pass over with a visit to a fish-filled lagoon along the way.

A quieter option lies just down the road, at Boca de Tomatlán, where a rocky cove anchored by a rustic village is nestled at the mouth of the Río Tomatlán. The shore is dotted with fishing boats and you can choose to cool off in the ocean or in freshwater poolsformed by the meeting of the river and the Pacific Ocean. You'll have to head here (or the pier at Playa de los Muertos) anyway if you're planning to hop on a boat to one of the offshore islands (see below); water taxis take off from the shore here. While waiting for your ship to sail, as it were, you can rent lounge chairs from beachside palapas for a few pesos.

Offshore Islands
For more peaceful and secluded sun-kissed sand, you can hop on a boat from Playa de los Muertos or Boca de Tomatlán and spend the day at one of PV's four famous far-flung islands: Yelapa, Las Marietas, Quimixto, or Las Animas, some 20 to 60 minutes away by boat.

Of the four, Yelapa is probably the most favored and offers pedestrian-only shores – mules are the main form of transport here – with abundant natural splendor and seclusion. You can easily while away the hours here by snorkeling, parasailing, horseback riding, sampling fresh seafood from beachside palapas, and walking around the tiny village. You can also hike inland, upriver, to a picturesque waterfall. If you can, spend the night at Verana, a luxe hand-built eco-hotel with breezy bungalows and a sumptuous spa – easily our favorite overnight.

Of the remaining three, Quimixto has a South Pacific ambiance and a beautiful cascading waterfall, just a short hike from the rocky beach, that invites visitors to splash around. You also run the chance of seeing local cliff-divers plunging into the pools from on high.

For supreme solace, Las Animas, some 15 miles off the coast, is an uninhabited beach where you and yours can savor some serious peace and quiet while basking on the beach, swimming, snorkeling, and dining on the sand. Feast on delicious snapper, fresh as they come, from a palapa bar and satisfy your sweet tooth with a freshly baked coconut pie. Just don't miss the last boat back to the mainland; there are no places to stay overnight.

Finally, Las Marietas comprise a group of islets with an array of wildlife and isolated beaches; they're a prime spot to watch for turtles, dolphins, and tropical fish. The rocky terrain here also veils lots of hidden caves and coves.

You have a couple of options for reaching these havens: A popular day cruise hits Los Arcos for snorkeling and continues to Las Animas and Quimixto; another one pairs Yelapa with Los Arcos or one of the other isles. See Cruceros Princesa (9am–4pm; $40+); rates include a light breakfast, lunch, and drinks. Alternatively, if you'd rather head straight to your isle of choice, water taxis will take you there for approximately $20-25 round-trip from Playa de los Muertos and $4-12 round-trip from Boca de Tomatlán. Make sure you check return times and don't miss the last boat because there are no land routes back to PV from most of these beaches.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Ecotours flourish in Puerto Vallarta, from birding and kayaking, to canopy tours that allow thrill-seekers to act out their inner Tarzan and glide from treetop to treetop via pulleys and cables. Of course, given the seaside location, you can also swim with dolphins and scuba dive. We've listed some of our favorite non-beach activities, below.

A road across from the entrance to Mismaloya Bay winds up the mountainside to the lush rainforest vegetation of the Sierra Cuale Mountains. Here, you can trek through the jungle where Arnold Schwarzenegger's blockbuster Predator was filmed, and reach a turtle preserve where you can watch baby Olive Ridley turtles hatch. Canopy tours (Thur–Tue; 4.5hrs; $75; www.vallarta-adventures.com).< are the best activity going here.

Whale-watching excursions are another exciting way to spend a day (available December 16–March 31; $65+ with breakfast, lunch, open bar, and equipment), as they include visits to secluded islets and isolated beaches; note that Pacific dolphins are spotted in the Bay of Banderas year round, but humongous humpbacks are best seen in winter, when they migrate to these warm, protected waters.

If you'd rather swim with dolphins, book an outing with Dolphin Adventure ($60 for an encounter; $128 to swim with them) to get up close and personal with Flipper and friends in a calm lagoon.

Back on land, you can hop on a steed for a guided horseback ride at Rancho Palma Real, just 40 minutes northeast of Puerto Vallarta (Carretera Vallarta; Tepic 4766; 322/221-0501; 4 hours; $55). Another good nearby ranch is Rancho El Charro (Av. Francisco Villa 895; 322/224-0114; 3 hours; $49), in the mountain foothills.

Puerto Vallarta also has nine golf courses and is gaining kudos for its greens. For bay views with your swing, try the Jack Nicklaus-designed Vista Vallarta Club, venue of the 2002 PGA World Cup, in the foothills of the mountains (from $163 with shared cart). The 18-hole Marina Vallarta Golf Course (322/221-0073; open 7am–dusk) is another good choice; it's open to the public for $121/day and includes shared cart.

Finally, for a traditional sports showcase, bullfights are held at La Paloma bullring, across from the town pier, every Wednesday afternoon from November through April (5pm; $25; ask at your hotel).

The best one-stop agency for jungle, scuba, and whale-watching trips is Vallarta Adventures (888/303-2653 or 322/297-1212), whose four-and-a-half-hour canopy tours depart daily (except Wednesdays) at 8:30am, 10:30am, and 1:30pm, and include non-alcoholic beverages and light snacks for $75. The same outfit also runs scuba outings to the exotic sea life and brilliant coral reefs of the underwater coves of Las Caletas and the sunken eco-reserve of Los Arcos; their 7-hour snorkeling tour of Las Caletas include expert guides, snorkeling and kayaking equipment, buffet lunch, and beverages from about $78/person. Alternately, the biggest scuba outfitter, Chico's Dive Shop (Diaz Ordaz 772; 322/222-1895), is right on the malecón and offers 4-hour dives from about $58/person.

See Puerto Vallarta Travel Guide

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