Attractions
Bucharest has long been given monikers like "The Paris of the East" and "The New Prague," but this metropolis of nearly 2.1 million people deserves more. Sure, there's a bit of Paris
in its leafy wide boulevards and Belle Epoque architecture and a nod to Prague with its narrow
late-medieval lanes. But Bucharest
has a unique eye-catching aesthetic, a mélange of styles found in few places.
The Greeks, the Romans, and the Turks have all come and gone, leaving behind a
harmonious allure like no other place on the planet.
Nowhere can you find more of the city's unique charm than in the ever-bustling central
district of Lipscani. Once a neglected network of streets and avenues, the 15th-century
core is undergoing a transformation – the "ruins," as locals once called Lipscani, have been refashioned into upscale shops and wine bars, hotels, and eateries. It's here, on and around
streets like Calea Victoriei, the city's main artery, that you'll find an intriguing mix of hipsters in the latest club gear, fashionistas smoothly navigating the cobblestones in their pumps, and well-coiffed couples sipping cocktails at outdoor cafés, among the mishmash of architectural styles – from neoclassical to Art Nouveau to SocialistRealism.
The neighborhood is also home to the National Art Museum (Calea Victoriei 49-53; Wed-Sun 10am-6pm; $4; art.museum.ro) and underrated treasure and home to an impressive collection of Monets, El Grecos, and other old masters and impressionist painters, as well as
a collection of Romanian art by artists like Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman.
It's also no surprise that that the city's first boutique hotel has swung open its doors
in Lipscani. The Rembrandt Hotel (see Where to Stay),
at just $100 per night for a double room, is a great value. Housed in a19th-century
Art Nouveau bank, the Rembrandt offers nicely appointed rooms, as well as a hip
bar and a restaurant. A few blocks away, at the Amsterdam Grand Café (see Where to Eat),
upwardly mobile locals sip cocktails while dining on Asian-inspired dishes. For
a true feast for the eyes and the palate, try nearby Hanul lui Manuc (see Where to Eat), a 200-year-old establishment that is now one of the city's biggest alfresco restaurants. Lounging under the inn's wooden eaves while sipping Romanian cabernet and watching the
locals is worth every lei.
After Lipscani, head north to leafy Soseaua Kiseleff Street for a peek at the area's Sessionist- and Art Nouveau-era mansions. At the 75-foot Arcul de Triumf – a 1935 model of Paris'
famous arch – take the staircase to the top for one of the city's best views. The nearb Village
Museum (Sos. Kiseleff 28-30; daily 9am-5pm; $2; www.muzuel-satului.ro), one of the city's biggest attractions, is a surprisingly charming open-air reconstruction of a rustic
village with cottages, churches, and shops. The excellent Museum of the Romanian Peasant, or Muzeul Taranului Roman (Sos. Kiseleff 3; Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; $2; www.itcnet.ro/mtr), boasts intriguing displays that spans four hundred years rural life in Romania
including painted eggs, pottery, woven crafts, and two rebuilt churches from the countryside.
If museum hopping makes you hungry, try La Fattoria (see Where to Eat),
located in the verdant Herastrau Park. This Italian-inspired eatery is a favorite for white-collar types and sleek couples.
Some of the city's staid, yet grand, Communist-era architecture is also a draw. Near Piata Unirii, south of Lipscani, the Palace of Parliament (Calea 13 Septembrie 1; daily 10am-4pm; $7; www.cdep.ro) – formerly Palace of the People – is the world's second-largest
office building (the Pentagon is the first) and the 45-minute tour offers a
look at the Communist-style dictatorship. While the rest of the country
starved, Mr. Ceausescu built a lavish crystal and marble-bedecked temple to
himself. The building of 1,100 rooms takes up 125 acres. Locals wanted to blow
it up in 1989 when they deposed Ceausescu, but dynamite costs proved too
prohibitive – good thing, because it's now one of Bucharest's top attractions.
Though Ceausescu had 26 churches, 2 synagogues, and a monastery razed for his palace,
a few impressive historic buildings in the neighborhood survived. The
17th-century Patriarchal Cathedral (Str. Dealul Mitropoliei; daily 8am-7pm; free; www.patriarhia.ro) is where the Romanian Orthodox
faithful flock. None of the original icons remain, save for one of the cathedral’s patron saints, Helen and her son, Roman Emperor Constantine, but the church itself is breathtaking.
Also, have a look at the neo-Gothic,
candy-striped Princess Balasa Church (Str. Sfintii Apostoli), on the north end of the square.
At the end
of the day, tuck yourself into one of the city's world-class hotels. The Athénée Palace Hilton (see Where to Stay) is today the place to rest your
cobble-weary feet. Standard rooms are a relatively expensive $280 per night,
but it's a worthwhile Romanian-style smart splurge, and regular deals on their
website bring the price down to $200. The InterContinental (see Where to Stay) is also a great place
to stay, with a pool, sauna and other features and rates starting from $150 a
night.
Beyond Bucharest
Horezu, Transylvania, and Bucovina
Leave the
capital behind and you'll quickly put the 21st century in your wake. The Romanian countryside is home to vast
tracts of pre-industrial landscape where some farmers still use a horse and
plow, and babushka-clad ladies knit traditional costumes on their front
porches.
A quick
two-hour drive northwest of
Bucharest
lands you in Horezu – a must for
pottery lovers. Nearly a century ago, local nuns taught the villagers how to
make and paint pottery, and ever since, people have come from far and wide to
get their hands on Horezu's ceramics,
which gleam with iridescence – prices range from $3 to $70 and higher. Ceramica
Palosi, one of the oldest family-run shops in the area (Str. Tudor Vladimirescu
15; 011-40-25-086-1634) is a great shop for picking up some pieces. Plates
start at $20.
Another top attraction is the Horezu Monastery (011-40-25-086-0071), which houses priceless and sacred 17th-century Eastern
Orthodox art. The main draw is the well-preserved murals of Heaven and Hell,
which wind around the building like an ecclesiastical picture book. Built by
Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu in 1690, this UNESCO-protected monastery is
located just off the main road in the tiny
village of
Romanii de Jos,
only two miles from Horezu. During the summer you can sleep at the modest inn
here too, for a huge bargain. Don't be surprised if you run into Prince Charles, who
often bunks down here – rooms
can be had for $30. (He's a patron of the MET Foundation, which is
dedicated to preserving Romania's heritage).
Transylvania – Count Who?
Whether the
15th-century nobleman Vlad Tepes, really is the famed bloodsucker that Bram
Stoker modeled his fanged protagonist after has never been authenticated. But
that doesn't stop most travelers from coming to Transylvania, a large region
roughly 50 miles north of
Bucharest.
There are plenty of Dracula sights (both intriguing and hokey), but there's
more to
Transylvania than its mythic count.
Start in Sibiu.
The southern Transylvanian university town is getting a scrubbing before
becoming the 2007 European Capital of Culture. If
Sibiu feels like you're in a rustic German
burg, with its cobblestone streets and half-timber houses, you're not crazy.
The region gained its Teutonic flair in the 12th-century, when Hungarian King
Géza II invited Saxons to settle here in exchange for protection.
Stroll
through the network of narrow streets, and from square to square to square.
Then, rest your weary feet at Crama Sibiul Vechi (see Where to Eat), one of the best eateries in town, and sample classic
Transylvanian dishes like corn meal dumplings or sausages stuffed with beef,
garlic, and spices. Wash it all down with locally produced vino.
Another
German-accented town, Sighisoara is
one of
Romania's
most atmospheric cities. Walk along the ancient walls, ascending one of the
original guard towers and take in the surrounding countryside.
The place
to stay in Sighisoara is the Stag House (see Where to Stay), a medieval-era inn,
another of Prince Charles' haunts. His favorite room features views of the town
square and a large double brass bed. For a non-princely price of $75 per night,
you can sleep in the same bed as the future king of England. Right next door is the
Stag-owned eatery Messerschmitt and
its tasty pork dishes. Finally, squeeze in a side trip to nearby Peles Castle (Str. Pelesului 2; June-Sept Tues-Sun 10am-4pm, Oct-May Wed-Sun 10am-4pm). The 160-room,
19th-century fortress houses a collection of European paintings and has over
800 stained glass windows.
Bucovina
Southern Bucovina is dotted with gorgeous 450-year-old monasteries, all of them exquisite examples of Orthodox painting and architecture. The best are in Voronet, but all of them
are worth seeking out. The area is northeast of Transylvania and about 6 hours north from Bucharest
by train. Moldovita, Sucevita, Voronet, Arbore, and Humor, each about an hour's
drive from one another, are UNESCO-protected 15th- and 16th-century complexes
whose facades and external walls are covered with colorful frescoes of Biblical
scenes. Bathed in bright blue (now known as "Voronet blue"), the frescoes have
miraculously survived 6 centuries of upheaval and exposure to the natural
elements, and yet, they look freshly painted.
Agrotourism and guesthouse stays, where visitors get farm-fresh meals and organic veggies,
are popular here. They aren't luxe, but they're charming, and typically just
$20 to $25 per person, per night.