Spotlight

Sedona

Attractions

Located 120 miles north of Phoenix and 30 miles south of Flagstaff, the city of Sedona is situated in Arizona's high desert and centered on a main Y-shaped intersection known simply as the "Y." A quick familiarization with this junction and a car are all you'll need to grasp the lay of the land. Head northeast on Highway 89A to hit Uptown Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, Slide Rock State Park, and Flagstaff; head west on Highway 89A for West Sedona and the neighboring town of Jerome; travel south on Highway 179 for the Village of Oak Creek and ultimately, Phoenix.

Several organized tours can orient you to Sedona as well, especially so the Sedona Trolley (Uptown Trolley Depot; seasonal schedules; 928/282-4211; $10; www.sedonatrolley.com), which offers two 55 minute overview tours (featuring different itineraries). Set aside some time for a guided jeep tour for access to otherwise inaccessible dirt roads – try Pink Jeep Tours (204 N. Hwy. 89A; 928/282-5000 or 800/873-3662; $45+; www.pinkjeep.com), for outings in search of rock art, ancient ruins, coyote canyons, and more; we also like Earth Wisdom Jeep Tours (293 N. Hwy. 89A; 928/282-4714 or 800/482-4714; $49+; www.earthwisdomjeeptours.com), which features specialty vortex and "medicine wheel" jeep tours, complete with an informed guide. For a bird's eye view, take to the skies in a hot-air balloon: Northern Light Balloon Expedition (928/282-2274 or 800/230-6222; $190; www.northernlightballoon.com) offers sunrise flights and a champagne picnic landing, while Red Rock Biplane Tours’ (928/204-5939 or 888/866-7433; $49+; www.sedonaairtours.com) breath-taking open cockpit excursions promise a real kick of adrenaline.

The visitor center (331 Forest Rd. & Hwy. 89A; Mon-Sat 8.30am-5pm, Sun 9am-3pm; 928/282-7722 or 800/288-7336; www.visitsedona.com) distributes area maps, brochures, trail information, and the Red Rock Pass ($5/day, $15/weekly) you'll need to park in National Forest areas (which can also be purchased at select area hotels and self-service machines at numerous trailheads).

Outdoor pursuits
Without a doubt, it's Sedona's geography that reigns supreme. The higher you get, the more amazing the vistas become, with lush greenery and striking red rocks, many of them named for their resemblance to objects – namely, Bell, Coffee Pot, and even Snoopy – stretch as far as the eye can see. Much of this land is protected by the 1.8-million-acre Coconino National Forest (www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino) that practically engulfs the city, and offers more than a hundred unique trails.

If there's one rock you must pay homage to, it's soaring Cathedral Rock. Majestically overlooking the land, and revered by Native Americans as a home of the gods and the birthplace of the first man and woman, it's also one of several areas in Sedona believed to be a vortex site. Whether or not you subscribe to the mysticism surrounding the area (see Spiritual Sedona, below), it's undoubtedly a place of incredible beauty. A great vantage point from which to view the rock is Red Rock Crossing (south of Hwy. 89A off Upper Red Rock Loop Rd.; daily 8am–8pm in summer, 8am-dusk other months; $7/vehicle), where its reflection in Oak Creek verges on iconic (it's certainly popular on Sedona postcards). Try to coordinate a sunset visit, when Cathedral Rock seems to glow from within, and plan to picnic at the site's Crescent Moon Picnic Area (see Where to Shop for local supplies). If you want to hike Cathedral Rock, the 1.5-mile Cathedral Rock Trail (access from Hwy. 179 north of the Village of Oak Creek, on Back O'Beyond Rd.; Red Rock Pass required) follows some steep slickrock slopes before rewarding you with stellar views of Sedona's spectacular countryside.

Red Rock State Park (Lower Red Rock Loop Rd., about seven miles south of Hwy. 89A; hours vary seasonably; 928/282-6907; $6/vehicle; www.azparks.gov), meanwhile, is centered on a picturesque, wooded curve of Oak Creek (note that swimming and even wading are prohibited) that makes for nice hiking alongside interesting native flora and fauna. The ten trails here range from easy to difficult.

If you head instead to the north side of Highway 89A in West Sedona, follow Dry Creek Road past Capitol Butte into beautiful Boynton Canyon (Red Rock Pass required), a narrow red-rock gorge said to be another vortex spot. You can reach it by one of two ways: either the 1.5-mile Boynton Canyon Vista Trail, a short, easy hike to a red-rock saddle with views over the canyon and the luxury Enchantment Resort property (see Where to Stay), or by the longer 5-mile Boynton Canyon Trail #47, which brings you deeper into the canyon.

A closer hike (and another purported vortex site) to the Uptown area is Airport Mesa Trail (south of Hwy. 89A off Airport Rd.; Red Rock Pass required), a moderate 3.5-mile loop that offers stunning 360-degree panoramas of the surrounding countryside.

Another popular trailhead is the 7-mile Bell Rock Pathway (off Hwy. 179, just north of the Village of Oak Creek; Red Rock Pass required), a wide, easy trail that links Sedona with the Village of Oak Creek and affords fantastic views of Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock along the way; it's also the site of yet another vortex point.

For a swim on a sunny summer day, follow the crowds to Slide Rock State Park (6871 Hwy. 89A; hours vary seasonably; 928/282-3034; $8-$10/vehicle; www.azparks.gov), just seven miles north of Sedona in the heart of Oak Creek Canyon. Smooth red sandstone chutes plunge into the creek here to create a natural waterslide; pack a picnic lunch (see Where to Shop) and make a day of it. The surrounding 16-mile gorge is cooled by Oak Creek's various streams and waterfalls and surrounded by mammoth red-rock walls, making it a popular spot for hikers, fishermen, and campers. The 6-mile West Fork Trail (10 miles north of Sedona on Hwy. 89A at Call O' the Canyon Day Area; $7/vehicle state park fee) here is one of the most popular hikes in the Sedona area, thanks to a scenic streamside trail (plan on getting your feet wet) hugged by towering 100-plus-feet cliffs and laced with chasms, some of of which are just a dozen or so feet wide.

Sedona's reputation as a mountain biking mecca is also gaining ground but, for the moment at least, the area's trails still remain relatively uncrowded. Popular spots include the Bell Rock Pathway (see access info above) and the Jim Thompson Trail (north of Hwy. 89A, follow Jordan Rd. to Park Ridge Rd.; Red Rock Pass required), a historic wagon trail just north of Uptown Sedona. Bike rentals are available from Bike & Bean (6020 Hwy. 179; 928/284-0210; www.bike-bean.com) and Mountain Bike Heaven (1695 W. Hwy. 89A; 928/282-1312; www.mountainbikeheaven.com); rates average $35 to $50 a day and guided tours are also available.

If you prefer to saddle up just like in the days of the Old West, several trails do accommodate horses, and guided rides can be organized through Trail Horse Adventures (85 Five J Lane; 928/282-7252 or 800/723-3538; www.trailhorseadventures.com) or Sedona Red Rock Jeep Tours (270 Hwy. 89A;. 928/282-6826 or 800/848-7728; www.redrockjeep.com). Trails range from 1-hour outings ($63+) to several-hour excursions with creek crossings and outdoor dining ($100+).

Fishing and fly-fishing are popular on Oak Creek, a bountiful trout stream, particularly in summertime. For supplies, advice, and even guided outings try Sedona Sports (251 N. Hwy. 179; 928/282-1317 or 866/204-2377; www.sedonasports.com).

Sedona has a couple of top-notch 18-hole golf courses where the views are so superb you'll be distracted from your swing. Our favorite 18-hole course is the Sedona Golf Resort (35 Ridge Trail Dr.; 928/284-9355 or 877/733-9885; $59+; www.sedonagolfresort.com) but a leisurely 9-hole course can be played at Canyon Mesa Country Club (500 Jacks Canyon Rd.; 928/284-0036; $20).

Catching one of Sedona's sensational sunsets is a local rite of passage and a heavenly way to wrap up an invigorating day of roughing it out on the rocks; two of the best spots are Airport Mesa and Red Rock Crossing. Tip: We also like to admire the amazing red rocks with a margarita in hand at Uptown's Vista Cantina & Restaurant (320 Hwy. 89A; 928/282-0002; www.vistacantina.com) or at Oaxaca Restaurant & Rooftop Cantina (321 Hwy. 89A; 928/282-4179; www.oaxacarestaurant.com), which features a scenic rooftop cantina and over 50 choices of tequila.

Sedona attractions
Compact and walkable Uptown Sedona, just north of the "Y," is not only the busiest part of town, but also its historic center. It's a pleasant place to stroll, with large sculpture installations and a good selection of shops and eateries; you'll also find it's good base for setting up tours or getting local information from the visitor center.

Noteworthy attractions include the Motion Picture Museum (271 N. Hwy 89A; 928/282-0597; free) where you can watch footage of movies shot in the area. Since the film adaptation of Zane Grey's Call of the Canyon in the early '20s, actors like John Wayne, Henry Fonda, Elvis Presley, and Robert DeNiro have all starred in films here; Billy the Kid and Apache rank among the most famous. Art enthusiasts will also want to stop at the Sedona Arts Center (15 Art Barn Rd. at Hwy. 89A; 10am-5pm; www.sedonaartscenter.com), which serves as a local art gallery and occasional host of live theater and music.

History buffs will enjoy the Sedona Heritage Museum (735 Jordan Rd.; 11am-3pm; $3; www.sedonamuseum.org), just north of Uptown Sedona in Jordan Historical Park. Set in a historic home from 1930 (cited on the National Register of Historic Places), the museum's exhibits include locally-shot films, histories of area pioneers, and various antiques.

Both spiritualists and architecture buffs will appreciate the Roman Catholic Chapel of the Holy Cross (Hwy. 179 to 780 Chapel Rd.; Mon-Sat 9am-5pm; 928/282-4069; free; www.chapeloftheholycross.com), tucked high among towering red rocks on the south side of town. The narrow, concrete chapel was completed in 1956 and features a 90-foot-high cross on its facade as well as lovely stained-glass work inside; its contemporary design is credited to a student of Frank Lloyd Wright.

Scenic drives
Though it would be a shame to miss out on trekking Sedona's trails on foot, three outstanding scenic drives make a strong argument for getting into your car. Among them, the 13-mile Schnebly Hill Road (off Hwy. 179) meanders through the hills of eastern Sedona for more than 2,000 feet, traversing cacti-filled landscapes and offering fantastic town and countryside views en-route. Tip: Portions of the dirt road are rough to navigate at times, so if you don't have an SUV or high-clearance vehicle, book a jeep tour instead (try Pink Jeep's "Scenic Rim" tour; see above for company contact details).

Another picturesque stretch, the 14.5-mile section of Highway 89A that connects Sedona to Flagstaff through Oak Creek Canyon, is bordered by crimson cliff walls and cottonwood, ponderosa pine, and sycamore trees and a series of parks, overlooks, and picnic areas lie off the route.

A final breathtaking drive, a 7.5-mile sliver of Highway 179 dubbed the Red Rock Scenic Byway, heads south from Sedona and winds through the Village of Oak Creek and past many of Sedona's most striking red rocks like Bell, Courthouse, and Castle.

Spiritual Sedona
If you've never heard of crystal therapy, reiki, and aura photos, prepare yourself, as your mind will be teeming with those terms before you leave. Sedona is synonymous with the New Age movement, with much of the buzz centered on the area's professed vortexes, a phenomenon whose modern-day popularity stems back to the early '80s when New Age author and psychic Page Bryant determined (through channeling) that several vortex fields, or high energy power centers, were found here. Some of the most widely recognized vortex sites fall around Sedona's dramatic geological sites including Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock, Airport Mesa, and Boynton Canyon. Skeptics may scoff, but vortex lore is here to stay, with tours, maps, books, and even lectures, like those offered at the Institute of Ecotourism (91 Portal Lane; 928/282-2720; $5+; www.ioet.org), available to further elucidate you on the concept.

Sedona's status as a sacred healing spot has attracted a community of alternative practitioners dedicated to metaphysical, holistic, and spiritual approaches to the body/mind/spirit and partaking in a tarot or psychic reading or reiki session could be the most interesting part of your trip. Otherwise, pick up some crystals or books in Sedona's ubiquitous spiritual bookstores and shops, or try meditating amidst the red-rock temples of the land. The Sedona Metaphysical Spiritual Association (www.sedonaspiritual.com) is a respected resource for learning more about the area's spiritual and metaphysical side; they'll also put you in touch with reputed local practitioners.

Native American sites
Sedona has a rich Native American heritage. To explore the legacy of the area's original inhabitants, you can either venture out on your own or hook up with a tour company. For the latter, we recommend Earth Wisdom Jeep's "Medicine Wheel" tour (3.5 hours; $78; see contact info above), which takes in several sacred Native American sites and culminates in a medicine wheel ceremony, and Way of the Ancients (928/204-9243 or 866/204-9243; $69+; www.wayoftheancients.com), which specializes in day trips to neighboring Navajo and Hopi reservations, as well as Montezuma's Castle (see below). If you prefer to go at it on your own, several sites full of impressive cliff dwellings and petroglyphs lie either in the Sedona vicinity or just outside.

West of Boynton Canyon. Palatki Heritage Site (Hwy. 89A to Forest Rd. 525; visitor center 9.30am-3.30pm; 928/282-3854; advance reservations required; Red Rock Pass required) is run by the Forest Service and hosts two easy trails, both of which are under a mile long: Palatki Ruins Trail leads to preserved Sinagua cliff dwellings dating from about 1150 AD, while the slightly shorter Rock Art Trail highlights a large collection of rocky alcoves with petroglyphs dating back up to 6,000 years.

Another area worth seeing is V-Bar-V Ranch Petroglyphs, in the Coconino National Forest (and once part of a historic ranch) just south of Sedona (3 miles east of the junction of I-17 and Hwy. 179; Fri-Mon 9.30am-3.30pm; Red Rock Pass required). The rock art here – etched images of snakes, turtles, and antelope – was created between 1150 and 1400 AD and covers a cliff face along the banks of Beaver Creek.; the drawings are also recognized as being some of the best-preserved petroglyphs in Arizona.

Outside of Sedona, check out the stone-walled hilltop pueblo of Tuzigoot National Monument (24 miles southwest of Sedona; just outside of Clarkdale on Hwy. 89A; daily 8am-5pm, 6pm in summer; $5; www.nps.gov/tuzi), built by the Sinagua some 1000 years ago just south of the Verde River. Heading south towards Phoenix on the I-17 is the Montezuma Castle National Monument (26 miles south of Sedona, Exit 289 off I-17; daily 8am–5pm, 6pm in summer; $5; www.nps.gov/moca) just north of Camp Verde, where some of Arizona's more accessible cliff dwellings can be seen. Although the site isn't actually a castle, nor was the Aztec ruler whose namesake it bears ever here, the ruins of the Sinagua tribe who used these dwelling in the 1300s are quite remarkable all the same. You can also organize day tours through companies in Sedona (see above) or head out on your own to explore the Hopi (www.hopi.nsn.us) and Navajo (www.navajo.org) reservations, a two-to-three hour drive north.

The Arts
Sedona is also heralded as a arts center, thanks to the scores of artists historically lured here by the superb desert light and distinctive landscapes; among the more famous cultural figures are the German surrealist Max Ernst, who lived and worked here in the 1940s, and the Cowboy Artists of America, an organization dedicated to depicting cowboy and America West lifestyles that was formed here in 1965. The Sedona Arts Center (see Sedona attractions above) hosts regular exhibits from regional artists as well as artists' workshops; over 40 more local art galleries showcase Western and Native American art, as well as more contemporary works.

Besides the galleries clustered in Uptown Sedona, there are several other art-centric places worth a visit: Tlaquepaque Arts And Crafts Village (see Sedona attractions above), Hillside Sedona (Hwy. 179, .5-mile south of the "Y"; www.hillsidesedona.net), and Hozho Distinctive Shops & Galleries (431 Hwy. 179, near Oak Creek Bridge; 928/204-2257). If you happen to be in town on the first Friday of the month, take the free First Friday Gallery Tour (928/282-6865; 5-8pm), offered by the Sedona Gallery Association (www.sedonagalleryassociation.com).

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