• Introduction
• 1. Snowbird
• 2. Jackson Hole
• 3. Sun Valley
• 4. Aspen Highlands
• 5. Big Sky
• 6. Smart Splurges
• 7. Local Slant

Jackson Hole

Backcountry for Everyone
You don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to ski the backcountry anymore. Since Jackson Hole, Wyoming (West Village Dr., Teton Village; 888/DEEP-SNO; adult day passes from $77; jacksonhole.com) initiated an open backcountry policy in 1999, skiers at nearly all skill levels can test their mettle on ungroomed, unmarked terrain beyond the ropes—with a 2,800-foot boost from the gondola ski lift. The difficulty ranges from highly demanding wilderness skiing in neighboring grand teton National Park to jog trot, pseudo-backcountry within the resort’s boundaries.

The terrain and untouched powder around 10,450-foot Rendezvous peak is reminiscent of legendary backcountry resorts like La Grave, France, and Verbier, Switzerland. Most runs, like the couloirs in granite Canyon or treed bowls in Rock Springs, require less than a 30-minute hike. With a private guide, first-timers can quickly learn how to fend for themselves.

Majestic Teton Valley has long attracted adventurous souls like President Theodore Roosevelt, who helped establish nearby Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. The ski-in Teton Mountain Lodge (3385 W. Village Dr., Teton Village; 800/801-6615; rooms from $290; tetonlodge.com) at the base of Jackson Hole would’ve pleased Roosevelt with its handhewn log construction, stone fireplaces, and western decor, but indulges today’s luxury standards, too. Walking into the lobby, with dual hearths and an enormous vaulted ceiling, you feel the size and beauty of the surrounding landscape, while images from local ski photographers paper the halls outside the new Solitude Spa (307/734-7111; treatments from $135) and cozy Cascade Grill House and Spirits on the ground floor. Next door, the more modest Inn at Jackson Hole (3345 W. Village Dr., Teton Village; 800/842-7666; rooms from $119; innatjh.com) offers rock-bottom specials and has an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi. For foodies, Masa Sushi in the hotel serves up some of the freshest fish in the valley.

Yet for all its renegade attitude, Jackson was long ago discovered by the Aspen set, so you might find yourself seated across from Harrison Ford or Dick Cheney at the upscale Rendezvous Bistro (380 S. Broadway, Jackson Hole; 307/739-1100; entrées from $15; rendezvousbistro.net), a local institution since 2001. The chipotle-grilled quail and meat loaf are crowd favorites, as is the irresistible mac and cheese. For something a little closer to the mountain, try the steaks at the Mangy Moose Restaurant & Saloon (3295 Village Dr., Teton Village; 307/733-4913; entrées from $14; mangymoose.net), then stick around for live music in the bar.

There’s plenty to do in Jackson in the winter: When the weather cooperates, snowmobile tours of nearby Yellowstone National Park bring guests face to face with wild moose and elk. The National Museum of Wildlife Art (2820 Rungius Rd., Jackson Hole; 307/733-5771; $10 admission; wildlifeart.org), two-and-a-half miles north of town, provides a tranquil encounter with more than 4,000 works of art.

Getting to Jackson Hole
Factor in 7 hours flight time to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, from New York City (connecting through Salt Lake) and 4.5 hours from Los Angeles. Shuttle service is available (one-way rides from $15; jacksonholebus.com), and taxis run from $26. Consider renting a 4x4, handy for the 15-minute drive from the resort into town.

See New York City Travel Guide