Snowbird
Powder Lover's Paradise
With global warming heating up ski resorts around the world, consistent snow is a thing of the past. Snowbird, Utah owner and ski-industry icon Dick Bass set his dream resort in little Cottonwood Canyon, perfectly situated to receive storms from both the southern and northern jet streams. The result is the second-highest snowfall in the lower 48, which yields light, fluffy powder aplenty. Every year 500 inches fall on Snowbird, coating its wide bowls, corduroy trails, and tight chutes with the white stuff (for comparison, Aspen Highlands gets 300 inches.)
Powder is the name of the game at Snowbird (Highway 210; 800/232-9542, adult day passes from $59; snowbird.com), where locals line up to catch the Peruvian express lift at 7a.m. to nab first tracks in the Peruvian gulch or new mineral Basin. Since 2001, the resort has been connected with neighboring Alta, so guests can ski both areas with one pass (note: Alta doesn’t allow snowboarders). Backcountry enthusiasts can also ski out of either resorts’ boundaries on the Ski Utah interconnect adventure tour led by a guide through Brighton, Park City, Solitude, Deer Valley, Alta, and Snowbird ($195 includes a guide, lunch, lift access, and transportation; skiutah.com/interconnect).
Towering over the base area is Snowbird’s Cliff Lodge (Highway 210, entry 4; 800/232-9542; rooms from $229; snowbird.com/lodging/clifflodge), one of the most-celebrated ski hotels in the world. The Cliff spent $5.6 million last year outfitting all of its rooms with new furnishings and technological amenities. The harsh concrete of the structure is softened by an impressive collection of oriental carpets and massive windowed views of the mountainside. One of the best spots to relax after a day on the slopes is in the Aerie Lounge & Sushi Bar (Highway 210, entry 4; 801/933-2160; entrées from $13; snowbird.com). For families willing to pack into a room, the nearby Lodge at Snowbird (Highway 210, entry 3; 800/232-9542; rooms from $169; snowbird.com/lodging/lodgeatsnowbird) is a good choice; Bass’ original lodge includes reasonably priced studios with lofts, fireplaces, and full kitchens. You can also take advantage of the snow with a studio at The Inn at Snowbird (Highway 210, entry 3; room and a lift ticket from $119 in early ski season; 800/232-9542; snowbird.com/lodging/innatsnowbird).
Downtown Salt Lake City is only a half hour away and worth the trip. Tour Temple Square (W. South Temple; 800/363-6027; visittemplesquare.com) and the tabernacle, where the Mormon Tabernacle Choir sings, or check out the Salt Lake Art Center (20 S. West Temple; 801/328-4201; free admission; slartcenter.org) for a terrific collection of international modern art. Back on the hill, Kurtis Krause hand-rolls his own pasta and smokes poultry and fish on-site at the Shallow Shaft restaurant (10199 E. Hwy. 210, Alta; 801/742-2177; entrées from $20; shallowshaft.com). Slow-food dishes like pappardelle pasta with shrimp and Alaskan king crab have created a strong following at the 34-year-old eatery.
Getting to Snowbird
Factor in 5.5 hours flight time to Salt Lake City, Utah from New York City and 2 hours from Los Angeles. The Cliff Lodge offers airport shuttle service for $30 from Salt Lake City International Airport.
