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Slovenia offers pristine surroundings, few crowds, and enormous value
The Western Alpine Region
After a long weekend in the capital, plan at least three days to take in Slovenia’s western Alpine region. First, sample two gorgeous glacial lakes, then head to a quaint outpost in the majestic Soča Valley and, finally, into the mountain paradise of Slovenia’s Julian Alps.
Start your journey by driving or taking the train about 30 miles northwest of Ljubljana to the town of Bled, on a lake nestled among foothills. Sapphire-blue Lake Bled was formed some 14,000 years ago as glaciers receded north through Europe. Today, it brims with rowboats, gondolas, and swimmers from spring through fall. Perched above the lake on a rocky peak is Bled Castle (386/4-572-9782, blejski-grad.si), extensively restored in the 1950s and worth a visit. Established around 1010 when it was part of the Holy Roman Empire, its cylindrical towers and conical roofs took shape in the 16th century under Austro-Hungarian rule.
Lake Bled surrounds Slovenia’s only natural island, where ancient Slavs once worshipped Ziva, their goddess of love and fertility. Since the Middle Ages, Bled Island has been home to the Church of the Assumption, which you can reach on a traditional rowboat called a pletna. Inside, children ring the church bell for good luck. At the water’s edge, have lunch (try regional dishes like Karst-style gnocchi in a cheese basket) at the aptly named Panorama Restaurant (Grand Hotel Toplice, Cesta svobode 12; 386/4-579-1275, panorama-bled.com). About 15 miles away is Slovenia’s largest glacial lake, Bohinj. Rent a kayak or rowboat for the afternoon, take the cable car at the Vogel ski area to panoramic hiking trails, or simply stroll along the shore.
From the nearby town of Bohinjska Bistrica, take the auto train through the mountains (the impressive 4-mile tunnel was completed in 1906) and into Slovenia’s rocky western realm. About an hour west of Bohinj lies the pristine SocSocača Valley. Its fairy-tale mountain landscapes and the turquoise Soča River served as a backdrop for the 2008 film The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian.
The site of fierce World War I battles, the Soča Valley is now a tranquil, little-known region of the Alps and a haven for those who love adventure sports. Local outdoor enthusiasts will tell you that to be a true Slovene, you must climb the nation’s highest peak, the 9,393-foot-high Mount Triglav, and they’ll encourage you to conquer it, too.
The small village of Kobarid offers a unique, relaxing place to use as a base for exploring the valley. The best bet for a stay there is Hiša Franko (Staro Selo 1; from $145/night; 386/5-389-4120, hisafranko.com), a farmhouse restored as a boutique hotel. It has an excellent slow-food restaurant, where the menu changes with the season, and its wine cellar boasts hundreds of Slovene labels. On request, the chef will pack a gourmet box lunch (including Slovene wine) for guests to take on hikes along the Kobarid Historical Trail, a mountain path that starts in town, crosses the electric-blue Soča River, cuts through old battle trenches, and ascends to the ruins of Tonočov Grad, an ancient Roman settlement, before snaking by the clear blue-green pool at the foot of the Kozjak Waterfall.
Kobarid is where Ernest Hemingway spent his time during World War I, and it provided the setting for his novel A Farewell to Arms. It was the site of the famous Battle of Caporetto (the Italian name for Kobarid), in which the Austro-Hungarian army routed the Italians in 1917. The battle is remembered in graphic detail at the Kobarid Museum (Gregorčičeva 10; $7; 386/5-389-0000, kobariski-muzej.si), which also has a few of Hemingway’s papers.
Take the Kobarid Historic Walk to the Italian ossuary, where more than 7,000 Italian soldiers were laid to rest after the battle. The approach is lined with relief sculptures of the stations of the cross, while the hilltop marble memorial surrounds the Church of St. Anthony, which was consecrated in 1696.
Across the valley from Kobarid lies Bovec, the gateway to Triglav National Park. The park takes up most of northwestern Slovenia and is rife with outdoor-sports opportunities, including excellent skiing, hiking, rafting, and more. Inside the park you’ll find the simple and lovely chalets of Pristava Lepena (near the town of Soča; from $70/night per person with breakfast; 386/5-388-9900, pristava-lepena.com/en). Sample local specialties like štrukelj dumplings and grilled trout at the restaurant there. The owners offer horseback riding on nearby trails, as well as pony rides for children, and will help you get into whatever outdoor adventures you desire, especially if you’ve decided to do as the Slovenes do and climb Mount Triglav after all.
