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Winter sports aside, this diverse and sophisticated region offers plenty to see and do
Restaurants
The region is renowned for Italian fare like risotto, agnolotti, panna cotta, and zabaglione, and for being the birthplace of the international Slow Food movement (promoting top-quality and locally-crafted food over the fast-food or pre-prepared fare). You’ll also find plenty of exquisite, locally produced truffles, hazelnuts, and chocolate.
For top-notch local cookery like roast goose and mixed-fry, in an atmosphere that’s classy without being stuffy – think paneled walls, etched-glass windows, and wood-beam ceilings – head to Turin's classic Tre Galline (Via Bellezia 37; 39-011/436-6553; closed Sun), in the old, but gentrifying, Quadrilatero Romano district. Or, sit outside under the huge hanging lanterns and grand baroque arcades and chow down on risottos, bollito misto, hazelnut tart and other Pedmontese standbys at another old favorite, Porto di Savona (Piazza Vittorio Veneto 2; 39-011/817-3500; www.portodisavona.com), in Piazza Vittorio Veneto’s oldest building.
If you’re really feeling both flush and daring, have a whack at the 16-course “creative menu” at Combal.Zero (Piazza Mafalda di Savoia; 39-011/956-522; closed Mon-Tue), ensconced since late 2002 on the outskirts of town, in the old Rivoli castle complex. The decor flaunts the minimalist feel of an Armani showroom, while Michelin-starred Davide Scabin ploughs avant-garde terrain; witness fish steamed inside a clay shell with white beans and black truffle – you need a mallet to break the thing apart – and dessert floated out by balloon. Usually it works admirably, and it always makes for a great show.
More down-to-earth tastes and budget can both be appeased at the low-key La Rosticceria di Via Gramsci (Via Gramsci 12; 39-011/535-805), which has outdoor seating and wonderful panini; Exki (Via XX Settembre 12, 39-011/560-41-08) a natural-food emporium with very good pastas, sandwiches, and salads; and Pizzeria Gennaro Esposito (Corso Vinzaglio 17; 39-011/19507444; closed Sat lunch & Sun) – its pies are widely lauded as the best in town.
It’s also worth making a jaunt out to the small town of Baldissero Torinese, just outside Turin. Here, in an idyllic setting near the imposing Superga Basilica, Marina Ramasso’s homey Osteria del Paluch (Via Superga 44; 39-011/940-8750; summer open daily, winter closed Sun dinner & Mon; www.ristorantepaluch.it) is a lovely spot to dine – indoors or out – overlooking the city. Goodies like Savoy-style cod, caramelized lamb with thyme potatoes, and asparagus tips with poached eggs, sautéed with nuts and black truffles are on the menu; if you want to try any of this at home, Marina even gives cooking classes.
Chocolate, coffee, and pastry
On your perambulations around the historic center, check out some of the many historic baroque and novecento chocolate, coffee, and pastry emporia, such as Al Bicerin (Piazza della Consolata 5; 39-011/436-9325); Buratti & Milano (Galeria Subalpina, Piazza Castello 27); and San Tommaso (Via San Tommaso 10; 39-011/53-4201).
Wine Country
As in wine regions the world over, you’ll find some top-flight ristoranti, trattorie, and osterie out here. Most of our favorites are in the countrysides around Alba and Asti, but we’ve included a few good bets in these principal towns, as well, especially useful if you’re there on day trips.
Second to none is Canelli’s San Marco Ristorante (Via Alba 136; 39-0141/823-544; closed Tue & Wed dinner; www.sanmarcoristorante.it), a cozy, upscale little spot whose kitchen is exquisitely helmed by Mariuccia Roggero Ferrero – her take on the classic tajarin (the artery-busting local version of tagliatelle) is made especially velvety by herb-and-truffle-infused butter.
Also updating Piedmontese cuisine, amid cutting-edge contemporary surroundings with soaring brick columns, arches, and walls, is Guido Ristorante Pollenzo (Via Fossano 19; 39-0172/458422; closed Mon; www.guidoristorante.it), next door to the University of Culinary Sciences, near the city of Bra. The agnolotti, pasta, capretto (kid goat roasted with rosemary and olive oil), and vitello tonnato (veal in a creamy tuna-based sauce) are among the many dishes for which Italian foodies make pilgrimages.
For fab fare that’s a little less gussied up but comes with a stellar view, the Trattoria nelle Vigne (Via Santa Croce 17; località Cascinotto; 39-0173/468-503; closed Sun–Mon & Wed; www.trattorianellevigne.it) is scenically sited right amid the vines near the town of Diano d’Alba, in an area near Alba known as the Langhe. It’s bright, contemporary and very Napa-Valley-feeling, but what comes out of the kitchen couldn’t be more local; Sabrina Farioli dishes up a set menu of scrumptiously traditional Piedmontese fare such as braised rabbit and the ubiquitous agnolotti.
For good inexpensive eats out here, best bets are vinerie (wine bars) and caffeterie, which serve lunch only, have set menus, are self-serve, or some combination of the above. Our picks in Asti include La Caffeteria del Borgo (Via Cavour 70; 39-0141/592-774), the dining room of the Hotel Genova (Corso Alessandria 28-30; 39-0141/594-228) and Il Reale (Piazza Alfieri 5; 39-0141/532-279; closed Tue), downstairs from and under the same ownership as the elegant, and pricier, Il Flauto Magico (www.ristoranteilflautomagico.com).
In Alba, the Self-Service Leon d’Oro (Piazza Marconi 2; 39-0173/441-901), on the ground floor of the lodging of the same name, has a fresh, contemporary vibe and fresh, inexpensive grub that puts American fast food to shame; also attached is Divina Gula (39-0173/364-040; closed Tue), a more elaborate yet still very affordable grill restaurant whose barrel-vault ceiling is whimsically tarted up with faux-Renaissance scenes.
