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Few can resist the lure of the open road once summer rolls around
U.S. Route 1
In August, when the masses descend on Vacationland, Route 1 is a parking lot winding through a million small towns with schizophrenic stoplights. But in early summer and fall, it offers an unobstructed front-row seat to the state’s hardy coastal beauty. Start this weeklong tour of Maine in its south, in the town of Kittery. Drive north through laid-back, gay-friendly Ogunquit before reaching posh Kennebunkport and its seaside mansions (for an unforgettable meal, try the renowned White Barn Inn). Then head to foodie-friendly Portland and eventually Freeport, home of quintessentially Northeastern clothier L.L. Bean (open 24 hours). Further north – or down east, as they say – the landscape turns desolate within the blueberry barrens of Washington County and the sights become more ruggedly striking. Don’t miss the reversing saltwater falls, a natural wonder that results from the area's strong tides, near West Pembroke. Sometimes this can be observed in utter solitude. The trip ends in the tiny city of Calais at Canada’s border.
Smart Splurge Hotel: In the cheerful harbor town of Camden, the 135-year-old Camden Harbour Inn, with its classic mansard roof and wraparound porch, just received a very chic makeover and a French-inspired restaurant, Natalie’s, from its new Dutch owners. www.camdenharbourinn.com
Great Value Hotel: Just steps from the Harraseeket River, the Wolf Neck Bed & Breakfast in Freeport holds just one spacious second-floor guest suite, which opens up onto a private balcony with sweeping river views. Watch for deer wandering into the yard or eagles flying overhead, while enjoying a hearty homemade breakfast – then rent an onsite kayak and explore the water. www.wolfneckbb.com
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